Best way to use the Willard’s nickel

RailKing85

RailKing85

Active member
Ok so I’ve watched 3 different methods so far to shape the tip using the Willard’s nickel.

I bought I true wood Cynergy with a dime sniper tip and I’m finding I’m not liking the shape much. Also it doesn’t seem to be holding chalk in the middle after a couple weeks of play. See pic first on left* I then got a tapper and rolled it in a circular motion and it then “seemed to be looking good with the chalk see pics 2 and 3*

But then I was back at square one within a day or two. So I ordered and got a Willard’s nickel and am looking to reshape it to a nickel and also be roughing it up at the same time. Hoping it doesn’t take too much meat off.

So in short, what the best way to do this smoothly and straight, minus a pocket or real lathe.

*side note, I’m also finding it more difficult to make rail shots with this shaft. Anyone experience this?

Thanks in advance fellas.
 

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A perfectly curved tip looks so nice on a new tip. For reshaping in the wild I don't think we need to strive for that perfection.

I used to worry about getting the very top of the tip to meet the tool (which ever I was using). Then I realized I was grinding/wasting tons of extra leather just to get the perfect curve each time. The problem is that the center will flatten after a few shots anyway. Curve on the tip does nothing. You only need the curve on the outer part of the tip. Just shape the part of the tip that needs the curve.

Shape the outer part, tap the whole surface, chalk and play.
 
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measureman said:
Best one ever and less then $5
Just shape it by eye.
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Here's the secret to using those:
First pool room I worked at, the guy put me at a bunch of house cues, changing ferrules and re tipping. Everything was pretty much automatic except getting those damned things rounded. Cut to 20, 30 years later, I discover through dumb luck, the secret to a good dome is to sand down the edge not humping the top. The top on most tips is already domed. Sanding that will just flatten it. Sanding around the edge brings the rest of the tip into spec. Works like a charm.
 
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straightline said:
... the secret to a good dome is to sand down the edge not humping the top. The top on most tips is already domed. Sanding that will just flatten it. Sanding around the edge brings the rest of the tip into spec. Works like a charm.
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^THIS^ is exactly right by my thinking; and, why - unlike the guy in the video who keeps the Williard's Shaper dead flat against the tip - I suggested to the OP to angle the shaper as he rolls the shaft.

So, regardless if you are using an inverted dome - like a Williard's - or, a sand-paper tube-type shaper - like a Tweeten's - the rational and technique of getting shape and not removing "too much meat" is the same: Angle the thing, and concentrate on hitting the sides.

Straighline perfectly described the reasoning and benefit - which I failed to do - so I'm glad he added the key.

Excellent. - GJ
 
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what measureman pictured is the best bar none. shapes and roughs it.

but your pics look just fine anyway. the last two make it look too roughed up. not needed to be like that. your tip isnt supposed to look like a piece of fluffy swayed leather. it gets pounded down. and you put chalk on it.
if you are miscueing then its because you arent hitting the cue ball where you were aiming.
 
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maha said:
what measureman pictured is the best bar none. shapes and roughs it.

but your pics look just fine anyway. the last two make it look too roughed up. not needed to be like that. your tip isnt supposed to look like a piece of fluffy swayed leather. it gets pounded down. and you put chalk on it.
if you are miscueing then its because you arent hitting the cue ball where you were aiming.
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All I did was roll in over a tapper. And it was back to looking shiny and holding less chalk within a few sessions. I'm not miscuing. I just prefer a Nickel shape.
 
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CocoboloCowboy said:
Good question, just like anything you learn to do it over time.

Sandpaper is mot stiff, so you can bend to curve shape.
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so do you suggest I try spinning the shaft in my hand counterclockwise with my 220 piece on the bottom edge, or just touch it up with small strokes in the same motion? Its a Sniper tip (soft-med) I'm going with Zan Hybrid max after this one. Sorry for the many questions. I've been playing pool off and on for 20 or so years but have never bought a stick, and the one a I had (a fiberglass cue that was left at a bar given to me) that was absolutely amazing and I had never had do anything to the tip.
 
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RailKing85 said:
so do you suggest I try spinning the shaft in my hand counterclockwise with my 220 piece on the bottom edge, or just touch it up with small strokes in the same motion? Its a Sniper tip (soft-med) I'm going with Zan Hybrid max after this one. Sorry for the many questions. I've been playing pool off and on for 20 or so years but have never bought a stick, and the one a I had (a fiberglass cue that was left at a bar given to me) that was absolutely amazing and I had never had do anything to the tip.
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Actually touching up is what sand paper does. Willard us shaper, and if you over use it’s new tip time.

someone long ago said chslk is abrasive, and depending on how you shoot. With or without out english, soft, or very hard.

You Tip should not need much messing with.
 
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CocoboloCowboy said:
Actually touching up is what sand paper does. Willard us shaper, and if you over use it’s new tip time.

someone long ago said chslk is abrasive, and depending on how you shoot. With or without out english, soft, or very hard.

You Tip should not need much messing with.
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yea just doesnt seem to be "biting" the cue very much. and Ive never seen a tip look smooth the way this once does on the top. I shoot straight and accurate so I know its not my stroke. I was drawing much more with my previous cue from years ago. Just not able to draw the ball as much as I thought I would be with a soft/med. So you dont advise i reshape to a nickel? just touch it up with 220? I have the tapper too. be advised ive only been playing with it for about 3 or so weeks.
 
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RailKing85 said:
yea just doesnt seem to be "biting" the cue very much. and Ive never seen a tip look smooth the way this once does on the top. I shoot straight and accurate so I know its not my stroke. I was drawing much more with my previous cue from years ago. Just not able to draw the ball as much as I thought I would be with a soft/med. So you dont advise i reshape to a nickel? just touch it up with 220? I have the tapper too. be advised ive only been playing with it for about 3 or so weeks.
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This is something that really helped me: https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/layered-tips-glazing-over.189715/#post-2452902

It's called "seating the chalk." it really helps with chalk retention and glazing. I don't really have this problem anymore but it really does help. I use a Porper Prik Stick to seat the chalk, it's great for that.

My procedure: I put a tip on, shape it, burnish the sides, scuff it a tiny bit with a kamui gator grip (knock offs are like $15), then do the seat the chalk procedure. I never really do any maintenance after that, other than occasionally lightly scuffing (more rolling the tip) with the gator grip. It kind of gets the spent chalk off the tip, but I only do it a couple times a week. I'm not grinding the tip, just kind of raising the fibers on it. My tips last hella long, be they milk duds, single layer, or multi layer tips. If I'm using a tip that mushrooms a little I will burnish the piss out of the sides to get it back into shape. I use hard tips or hard-ish pressed milkduds so mushrooming is very minimal if ever.

As you play your tip will develop it's own shape, all depending on your personal play style. I try to never mess up this profile, thus the light scuffing occasionally. The only thing I care about is the sides being sharp where they meet the radius. I'll use the leather burnisher on the side of a last4ever tip tool after an egregious miscue or if I notice the radius starting to blend with the sides.

I find it easier to keep the sides sharp with a larger diameter, like in between a nickel and a quarter. My tip is 12.5mm. I've never had any issues getting spin with a larger radius.
 
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boogieman said:
This is something that really helped me: https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/layered-tips-glazing-over.189715/#post-2452902

It's called "seating the chalk." it really helps with chalk retention and glazing. I don't really have this problem anymore but it really does help. I use a Porper Prik Stick to seat the chalk, it's great for that.

My procedure: I put a tip on, shape it, burnish the sides, scuff it a tiny bit with a kamui gator grip (knock offs are like $15), then do the seat the chalk procedure. I never really do any maintenance after that, other than occasionally lightly scuffing (more rolling the tip) with the gator grip. It kind of gets the spent chalk off the tip, but I only do it a couple times a week. I'm not grinding the tip, just kind of raising the fibers on it. My tips last hella long, be they milk duds, single layer, or multi layer tips. If I'm using a tip that mushrooms a little I will burnish the piss out of the sides to get it back into shape. I use hard tips or hard-ish pressed milkduds so mushrooming is very minimal if ever.

As you play your tip will develop it's own shape, all depending on your personal play style. I try to never mess up this profile, thus the light scuffing occasionally. The only thing I care about is the sides being sharp where they meet the radius. I'll use the leather burnisher on the side of a last4ever tip tool after an egregious miscue or if I notice the radius starting to blend with the sides.

I find it easier to keep the sides sharp with a larger diameter, like in between a nickel and a quarter. My tip is 12.5mm. I've never had any issues getting spin with a larger radius.
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I have a tapper. My tip came as a dime shaped 12.5 sniper tip. I rolled the tip over the tapper as mentioned in the original post. and was back at square one with it after a few sessions. Im not sure what he means by the "knurled side" or what but. and im not using a prick stick as im not trying to delaminate the layers. I prefer a nickel as well. Ive purchased a tapper, a willards nickel. and im grabbing 220 grit today. I shouldnt need 101 tools to play pool. getting frustrated for sure.
 
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RailKing85 said:
I have a tapper. My tip came as a dime shaped 12.5 sniper tip. I rolled the tip over the tapper as mentioned in the original post. and was back at square one with it after a few sessions. Im not sure what he means by the "knurled side" or what but. and im not using a prick stick as im not trying to delaminate the layers. I prefer a nickel as well.
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WTF??? You have a tapper and can't tell smooth side from the knurled???? You are making this WAAAAAY harder than it needs to be. Get the Tweeten shaper for less than 10bux. Its virtually idiot prrof. Once you have the tip shaped you can use the Willards for quik tune-ups. Plenty of videos on YT on shaping tips.
 
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garczar said:
WTF??? You have a tapper and can't tell smooth side from the knurled???? You are making this WAAAAAY harder than it needs to be. Get the Tweeten shaper for less than 10bux. Its virtually idiot prrof. Once you have the tip shaped you can use the Willards for quik tune-ups. Plenty of videos on YT on shaping tips.
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The tapper has the grooves "knurled face" and then a seperate pattern on the handle. I was interested to see if thats what he was talking about using to roll over. As the original intention of the tapper was to "tap" not roll. I am not buying another tool. nope.
 
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This is how my tip currently looks.If im not mistaken it seems as if its almost down to a nickel right now. It doesnt look terrible. Im just not getting alot of bite.
 

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RailKing85 said:
This is how my tip currently looks.If im not mistaken it seems as if its almost down to a nickel right now. It doesnt look terrible. Im just not getting alot of bite.
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Shape looks fine. I use this to lightly scuff occasionally: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3543010742...d=link&campid=5335988529&toolid=20001&mkevt=1 Hold it at about a 30-45deg angle against the tip and just roll the tip across it. Same thing as a Kamui for a 5th the price. I only use the cuecube/willard combo when it starts to lose its shape which isn't very often.
 
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garczar said:
Shape looks fine. I use this to lightly scuff occasionally: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3543010742...d=link&campid=5335988529&toolid=20001&mkevt=1 Hold it at about a 30-45deg angle against the tip and just roll the tip across it. Same thing as a Kamui for a 5th the price. I only use the cuecube/willard combo when it starts to lose its shape which isn't very often.
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thanks bud. that thing looks like it'll leave some nice and small dimples. Ill just roll it on the tapper again, maybe touch it up around the shoulders with some 220. Do you know what the diff grit on the tapper handle is for?
 
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