Billiard table construction

OtterBoy

OtterBoy

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I was wondering why in the construction of billiard tables, that on a upscale or higher quality table that the inside beams and inside framework are always unfinished. Is there a reason for this or just because it is not seen, so it is not finished.

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it's because of costs to finish unseen areas. If you are in the installation process, finish them yourself... it's a piece of cake.
 
Realize that it's a different type of wood also if you decide you need to finish it.

It would be sort of like finishing the studs behind the drywall in your walls. They are unseen and it would serve no purpose to finish them, yet would cost more in labor and materials, so why do it?
 
I understand, but wouldn't finishing the inside beams and construction be more stable if the wood was finished or at least sealed to prevent any movement of the wood. Does it not matter that the beams and construction are holding up such a massive amount of weight in the slate. I am just asking to get a true understanding of the construction of pool tables and the mechanics of the table.
 
I agree with your hunch. If I were building a table I would seal all surfaces of the wood to minimize the effects of humidity. I'd also build the beams out of laminated wood instead of solid lumber for the same reason.

The table at our community center has solid wood beams and we have slate movement (up/down at the seams) every time the weather changes. Welcome to the upper Midwest -- the meeting place of humid Gulf air and dry Canadian air.
 
OtterBoy said:
I understand, but wouldn't finishing the inside beams and construction be more stable if the wood was finished or at least sealed to prevent any movement of the wood. Does it not matter that the beams and construction are holding up such a massive amount of weight in the slate. I am just asking to get a true understanding of the construction of pool tables and the mechanics of the table.
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I agree too. I coated all the surfaces when I re-did my table.
 
I agree about using laminated wood for those pieces such as lvl, but sealing your current wood won't stop movement of the wood. You would be better off just having a dehumidifier in the room where your table is.
 
Well I live in Oregon and going the dehumidifier route would be hard to keep a low humidity level. I have done some research in wood working and found out that sealing the beams and inside wood construction would help stabilize the wood and regulate the amount of moisture it could absorb. The best wood sealer I have found is made for marine and will penatrate the wood deeply. Also in my research that even though the beams and inside wood construction is kiln dried that it should be sealed. It won't stop the movement of the wood, but will help control it some.
 
OtterBoy said:
So, just get a high quality wood sealer?
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Yes, sealing is much more important (effective) than "finishing."

And, yes, the wood will still change with changes in humidity. But the changes will occur much more slowly...possibly to the point that the "change range" is so small that you won't notice it.
 
wonder why someone hasn't used some sort of steel instead of wood? don't mean to disrail the thread but having my table releveled today the guy told me that the underneath has a little bow to it because of the wood. Seems someone could come up with a lite weight steel supports underneath that don't change with humidity.... just wondering..
 
I would assume it because most tables are wood construction and the public is use to wood construction and most advise out there says solid wood construction is the best. Plus cost might be a factor too.
 
Houstoer said:
wonder why someone hasn't used some sort of steel instead of wood? don't mean to disrail the thread but having my table releveled today the guy told me that the underneath has a little bow to it because of the wood. Seems someone could come up with a lite weight steel supports underneath that don't change with humidity.... just wondering..
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1. Weight. To acheive the same rigidity as a wood beam, you'd have to use a 3-4" (approx) steel I-beam. That would weigh 4 times the 6" wood beam. One person could never do an install/move.

2. Cost

3. Tooling. Wood is easy to work with; cut, drill, tap. Cutting and drilling a 3-4" I-beam requires expensive equipment and LOTS of electricity.
 
I'm not saying you're wrong, but most pool tables are installs are done by 2 people, because of the weight of the slate and the install usually needs 2 people for a proper install.
 
OtterBoy said:
I'm not saying you're wrong, but most pool tables are installs are done by 2 people, because of the weight of the slate and the install usually needs 2 people for a proper install.
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Understood. But there's a big difference between difficult and impossible; and the difference is real important when you're talking about how someome makes a living.

In any case, that's the least of the concerns. Overall table weight (i.e. shipping cost), material cost and manufacturing costs are the main drawbacks.

What's surprising is that no one has used lightweight engineered structural steel beams. Maybe they just don't have the stiffness required (I'm thinking of when Darren Appleton won a tournament and jumped up on the table and jumped up and down :D) But even then, material cost and manufacturing costs would be significantly higher.
 
True, but aluminum alloy could be used or metal that is used in mountain bike construction or the steel beam construction could be designed that there is more beams so that it be easier to handle. But, it's not a reality right now as no real production billiards tables are constructed of steel or metal.
 
These are metal, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVTC3ah0tdw

They may not be production though.




OtterBoy said:
True, but aluminum alloy could be used or metal that is used in mountain bike construction or the steel beam construction could be designed that there is more beams so that it be easier to handle. But, it's not a reality right now as no real production billiards tables are constructed of steel or metal.
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Well kinda getting off subject here, I have posted on some woodworking forums and from what others have said it would be a good idea to seal the beams and inside wood construction, as there would be nothing to lose by sealing the wood.
 
bdorman said:
1. Weight. To acheive the same rigidity as a wood beam, you'd have to use a 3-4" (approx) steel I-beam. That would weigh 4 times the 6" wood beam. One person could never do an install/move.
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I do not agree with this at all. I could build a more rigid pool table frame that is lighter out of relatively cheap low carbon steel. Just as an example 1"x2" .083 wall rectangle tubing is stiffer than a 2"x4"
 
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