Billiard table construction

fastone371 said:
I do not agree with this at all. I could build a more rigid pool table frame that is lighter out of relatively cheap low carbon steel. Just as an example 1"x2" .083 wall rectangle tubing is stiffer than a 2"x4"
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Of course it is. But is it stiffer than than my cheapo-table's 4x8" wood beams? What happens to 1x2" steel rect tube when a 250 lb. guy decides he needs to sit on the end rail to reach his shot? It will flex.

I'm sure there are tables out there with 2x4" beams and a 1" composite-wood surface, but I doubt we want to build to that spec.

As I mentioned earlier there are engineered lightweight steel beams and I'm surprised none of the table manufacturers have used them. Maybe it's cost; wood is cheap.
 
I've looked under some European 3 cushion heated tables and there was lots of metal there:) Its been a while but I vaguely recall the metal was a box cross section. Most certainly low carbon steel (cheap).


On the woodworking side, I've been a hobbyist woodworker since I was 6 and used to read all the woodworking mags cover to cover for maybe a decade. It was conventional wisdom to seal all sides of a project, to help even out moisture absorption rates. The wood will still move, but the idea is it will move in a more even, or straight direction.

Now, on a commercial pool table, such as a GC, the super nice finished pieces such as the aprons are only aesthetic. The structural beams underneath the table are not finished to the same extent. I'm under my GC4 now and the beams are all stained it looks like. Can't tell if there is any sealer in addition to the stain.
 
My circa 1999 Diamond pro has grey painted (assuming this is a sealer) 6x6" oak beams for the sub frame, which weighs like 300# on its own.
 
OtterBoy said:
I understand, but wouldn't finishing the inside beams and construction be more stable if the wood was finished or at least sealed to prevent any movement of the wood. Does it not matter that the beams and construction are holding up such a massive amount of weight in the slate. I am just asking to get a true understanding of the construction of pool tables and the mechanics of the table.
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I would bet dollars to doughnuts(which, once upon a time, was very long odds) that the
table in the above pic was sealed when constructed.

A sealer is not a finish.

Dale
 
OtterBoy said:
True, but aluminum alloy could be used or metal that is used in mountain bike construction or the steel beam construction could be designed that there is more beams so that it be easier to handle. But, it's not a reality right now as no real production billiards tables are constructed of steel or metal.
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I don't think the bicycle is a good example. It takes mainly intermittent hits, whil a pool table has a significant static load.

They been using woods for years and I think it works pretty damn well.
 
I know wood sealer is not like a finish. The dude I bought it from said that he was sure the beams and inside construction are not sealed. Plus I have inquired to a few pool table manufacturers and they have told me on there tables they don't use sealer on the wood beams or inside construction, so I'm going with the likelihood it is unsealed.
 
mantis99 said:
I agree about using laminated wood for those pieces such as lvl, but sealing your current wood won't stop movement of the wood. You would be better off just having a dehumidifier in the room where your table is.
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sure it will. that is precisely what stops the movement of wood. certainly not all of it...but most...and a hell of a lot more than leaving sides unsealed.

you must live in a land locked area
 
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Seal everything. Certainly won't hurt.

While you're at it, check any glued joints for cracks and gaps and reglue them.
Check bolts, brackets, screws, threads for wear, and see that they are square and seated correctly.
Check beams for warp or cracks.
Check leg bolts, brackets etc the same.
If anything wiggles, there is something wrong, and its much easier to identify and fix it while the table is apart.

You might also check and fix any exterior blemishes or scratches and make double sure your frame corners are aligned and tighter than my mother's purse.
 
I have checked all the joints and re-glued any joints, used some epoxy that was made specifically for wood for some repairs. The frame and beams are really solid and there is no movement in the table frame. I dewaxed the outside of the table frame and rewaxed it with a super high-quality paste wax. I bought all new bolts that are the same, just a higher grade, grade 8 steel. I repaired and polished all the "leather" pockets.
 
I have decided to go with Pettit EZ sealer, it's a marine sealer and is rated very high quality. The manufacturer said it will penetrate deep into the wood and provide a excellent barrier against moisture and humidity.
 
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