Bore size for rethreading

[tsp&b]

If thin CA is used it will actually penetrate and harden the wood. It will also leave a hardened layer of CA on the surface. I let it cure thoroughly and check it with a joint pin. If it is not tight enough then I apply another layer. If it is too tight a run a H0 tap in and it is ready to go. Again If the damage is more severe I prefer to drill plug and retap. A phenolic insert (plug) will work extremely well and I think they hold up better than wood when properly installed.

“There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance – that principle is contempt prior to investigation.”
Herbert Spencer

 

[Michael Webb]

“There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance – that principle is contempt prior to investigation.”
Herbert Spencer

I wonder if Mr. Spencer would agree with the below statement?

My shop, my rules kind of thing. That applies to everyone's shop

 

[Renegade_56]

Do you think it works because it swells the wood some?

absolutely, I do it on my new shafts, 3/8-10 and people love the precision fit.

 

[Rodney]

absolutely, I do it on my new shafts, 3/8-10 and people love the precision fit.

Kind of odd you call that a precision fit.

 

[Michael Webb]

In my situation this shaft was bored and rethreaded in the past already. I suspect just the threads were bored out and that the plug diameter was only about 3/8 which was the reason for the question about how much to bore out in the first place.

In this case you can rock the shaft when it's really close to contacting the butt face so I don't think there's much that will help other than doing it over again.

Do you think it works because it swells the wood some?

Aside from the comedy points in this thread.
Which 3/8x10 screw are you talking about?
What size hole are you planning after you plug it?

 

[shankster8]

Aside from the comedy points in this thread.
Which 3/8x10 screw are you talking about?
What size hole are you planning after you plug it?

Trying to understand. Is the comedy you are referring to, the use of CA to tighten threads? If the screw is regular or modified 3/8x10 you obviously have a recommendation regarding hole size, please share that info. And a comment: if op decides to bore, plug and retap, it seems a no brainer to use more durable phenolic, rather than wood.

 

[dendweller]

Aside from the comedy points in this thread.
Which 3/8x10 screw are you talking about?
What size hole are you planning after you plug it?

It's for traditional 3/8 10, the kind that where on the old Mcdermotts etc.

I was planning on using a 9/32 as the final drill size before I tap it.

 

[dendweller]

Trying to understand. Is the comedy you are referring to, the use of CA to tighten threads? If the screw is regular or modified 3/8x10 you obviously have a recommendation regarding hole size, please share that info. And a comment: if op decides to bore, plug and retap, it seems a no brainer to use more durable phenolic, rather than wood.

I would say that's only a no brainer if you're set up and have the tools to do it with phenolic, and think rock maple is useless for threads. I'm not set up for it and think maple will give you a lot of years before it becomes a problem. I only work on my own stuff so...

 

[shankster8]

I would say that's only a no brainer if you're set up and have the tools to do it with phenolic, and think rock maple is useless for threads. I'm not set up for it and think maple will give you a lot of years before it becomes a problem. I only work on my own stuff so...

Rock maple is not useless for threads, just not as durable as phenolic. What special setup/tools/procedures do you need to use phenolic?

 

[dendweller]

Rock maple is not useless for threads, just not as durable as phenolic. What special setup/tools/procedures do you need to use phenolic?

I'm not really sure, never threaded it, never drilled it. I'd always assumed you'd need good carbide drill bits/cutters and possibly have to do live threading but that's me guessing because I know it's harder than maple. Can you tap it with a regular tap?

 

[shankster8]

I'm not really sure, never threaded it, never drilled it. I'd always assumed you good carbide drill bits and possible have to do live threading but that's me guessing because I know it's harder than maple. Can you tap it with a regular tap?

I use the same tools as for wood; you're just drilling and tapping plastic. Maybe buy some garolite tube or rod and perhaps you'll be pleasantly surprised.

 

[dendweller]

Aside from the comedy points in this thread.
Which 3/8x10 screw are you talking about?
What size hole are you planning after you plug it?

By the way, I've always used 5/16 as the last drill size, read on this forum that that was maybe a little too big. This would be the first time I'm trying the 9/32.

 

[shankster8]

By the way, I've always used 5/16 as the last drill size, read on this forum that that was maybe a little too big. This would be the first time I'm trying the 9/32.

Expecting Michael Webb will expand on this.

 

[Ssonerai]

I'm not really sure, never threaded it, never drilled it. I'd always assumed you'd need good carbide drill bits/cutters and possibly have to do live threading but that's me guessing because I know it's harder than maple. Can you tap it with a regular tap?

Don't use garolite/glass filled for the female thread, there is no advantage and it is hard on taps and hard on the joint screw.
Use plain old _rolled_ phenolic linen rod. It machines fine & easily with HSS tools. However, like threading many plastics, it can expand under the force of the tool, then be very tight on the mating screw. Usually if final threading is done in the installed position, it is OK. FWIW, i make my own taps, and only use 3/8"-10 joint screws.

Not in shop, IIRC I use letter N drill.

One advantage to using the cyano fix if the hole is not too sloppy - some cues with brash grain can break behind the installed 1/2" plug if that end point lines up about where the ferule ends at the same place. I don't have much volume of cues or repairs under my belt like some on here, but saw that early in my messing around with cues before i started to build them. If the plug extends either short of the ferule base, or "some" distance beyond, it can reinforce it. Just don't have it all end at the same location inside and out creating a stress riser.

smt

 

[Michael Webb]

By the way, I've always used 5/16 as the last drill size, read on this forum that that was maybe a little too big. This would be the first time I'm trying the 9/32.

The minor of the thread on McDermott 3/8x10 and the joint screws from Ct cue parts, in Ct by the way. Lol
Is .281
But I wouldn't use a 9/32" because it's. 281. I use a metric drill bit but I had my taps made special by Widell years ago.
Your obstacle will be what tap or taps you have. If you have the smaller taps offered, I suggest an L drill. At .290 you'll have eneogh room where future humidity change and future dirt won't make it to tight. Don't forget to lube the tap and feed it in under hand power not machine power. It's called a hand tap!
Hope this helps.

On phenolic plugs, you'll have to decide whether you want to thread them in or just use a straight plug with glue rings on it. You would be amazed what you can do just using metal split dies to thread them with.
Either way, your choice, your work.
On all wood and phenolic base threads, i use a mixture of blo and zinnzer sanding sealer. After you tap, pour it in and dump it out after about 10 seconds.
Let it dry.

 

[shankster8]

Don't use garolite/glass filled for the female thread, there is no advantage and it is hard on taps and hard on the joint screw.
Use plain old _rolled_ phenolic linen rod. It machines fine & easily with HSS tools. However, like threading many plastics, it can expand under the force of the tool, then be very tight on the mating screw. Usually if final threading is done in the installed position, it is OK. FWIW, i make my own taps, and only use 3/8"-10 joint screws.

Not in shop, IIRC I use letter N drill.

One advantage to using the cyano fix if the hole is not too sloppy - some cues with brash grain can break behind the installed 1/2" plug if that end point lines up about where the ferule ends at the same place. I don't have much volume of cues or repairs under my belt like some on here, but saw that early in my messing around with cues before i started to build them. If the plug extends either short of the ferule base, or "some" distance beyond, it can reinforce it. Just don't have it all end at the same location inside and out creating a stress riser.

smt

Ssonerai you might find this interesting: From the McMaster-Carr website: Using nothing more than standard high-speed steel tooling, these Garolite LE sheets and strips can be machined into intricate parts. Garolite LE is made of a phenolic resin with a fine-weave linen fabric reinforcement. (https://www.mcmaster.com/products/grade-le-garolite/?s=garolite). There are different grades of garolite and some are not "hard on taps and hard on joint screws"

 

[tsp&b]

I wonder if Mr. Spencer would agree with the below statement?

My shop, my rules kind of thing. That applies to everyone's shop

I believe that Mr. Spencer was referring to those you have a closed mind concerning new ideas. I have no idea what he would agree or disagree with. However, I agree that anyone has the right to make whatever decisions they want to concerning their shop "rules" BTW, You are open to new ideas.. Aren't you?

 

[Renegade_56]

Kind of odd you call that a precision fit.

Kind of an odd comment actually. They were already precision when I cut the thread, why would the wax change that? It just makes it screw together smoother.

 

[shankster8]

Trying to understand. Is the comedy you are referring to, the use of CA to tighten threads? If the screw is regular or modified 3/8x10 you obviously have a recommendation regarding hole size, please share that info. And a comment: if op decides to bore, plug and retap, it seems a no brainer to use more durable phenolic, rather than wood.

Mr. Webb, is the comedy you referred to the use of CA to tighten threads?

 

[Michael Webb]

I believe that Mr. Spencer was referring to those you have a closed mind concerning new ideas. I have no idea what he would agree or disagree with. However, I agree that anyone has the right to make whatever decisions they want to concerning their shop "rules" BTW, You are open to new ideas.. Aren't you?

Respectfully
Not where C/A in involved. It's me, not you.