I typed comedy but I'm not laughing. I work on a lot of Cues, and I am always respectful.
BUT
I think c/a and quick epoxies are used to much in today's Cues.
My opinion, good luck trying to change my mind.
Bore size for rethreading
- Thread starter dendweller
- Start date
BUT
I think c/a and quick epoxies are used to much in today's Cues.
My opinion, good luck trying to change my mind.
Thanks for your answer, I'm fine with it. Was just itching to point out that if Mr. Hightower was going to suggest that use, that removes it from the comedy realm, IMO.
I love ya brother. It's all good.
Happy Thanksgiving
I respect everyone's opinion EQUALLY
But that has nothing to do with me or my shop.
We post our opinions, it means nothing more than that.
On the Topic of this Thread wher everyone says..you can do this, this or that.
I'm the guy who wants to know why it originally failed to make you question how to repair it.
Define that, and go from there.
I'm the guy who wants to know why it originally failed to make you question how to repair it.
Define that, and go from there.
That M-C reference is exactly why i wrote my post as i did.
They are about the only source that includes linen phenolic (LE) under the Garolite name.
Everywhere else, "garolite" means fiberglass reinforced. Or G10
It is actually a brand name, for G10
Garolite Properties and Uses - Custom Materials Inc.
Garolite is a material that is used in the making of circuit boards. Greenish - yellow, it's highly recogmizable. Stable, rigid, high insulating factors.
custommaterials.com
I don't know how MC decided to use that name for LE, but they are big and have lawyers, so it must be ok.
But no one else uses that name, that way. Say "garolite" and every machinist i know thinks "G10/fiberglass"
So call it what you want, just be sure your source, if it is not MC, understands that you want linen.
smt
Not odd at all. You said the wax absolutely swells the threads then called it precision. If it was precision before they swelled how did it fit after?
The first few times I tried tapping for 3/8-10 were pretty sloppy, so I get it.
snookered_again
Well-known member
I have a bunch of junky cues I just wanted to make useable but they are not straight at the joint. most of them have a threaded portion but not the more precision modern joints.
I thought maybe if one end seems to thread ok, and the other end is captive, could I then bore out the loose end, fill it with JB weld or epoxy to lock one end in permanently and let it set up with a few straight steel rods of about 3/8 diameter surrounding the cue and elastic bands holding the two true to one another until the epoxy sets? I thought that could be a way to "correct them" is that practical?
I have a little 9" southbend clone lathe but it's not really set up for holding pool cues nor am I a cue maker. maybe I can work out a jig to hold cues in , the hole in the bore is of limited size so no butt end can fit, likely the shaft will.
Ive been wondering if I should relocate my lathe as I only have about a foot or two between the wall and my chuck on the left hand side. I dont have a steady-rest which I would probably need.
thanks!
I thought maybe if one end seems to thread ok, and the other end is captive, could I then bore out the loose end, fill it with JB weld or epoxy to lock one end in permanently and let it set up with a few straight steel rods of about 3/8 diameter surrounding the cue and elastic bands holding the two true to one another until the epoxy sets? I thought that could be a way to "correct them" is that practical?
I have a little 9" southbend clone lathe but it's not really set up for holding pool cues nor am I a cue maker. maybe I can work out a jig to hold cues in , the hole in the bore is of limited size so no butt end can fit, likely the shaft will.
Ive been wondering if I should relocate my lathe as I only have about a foot or two between the wall and my chuck on the left hand side. I dont have a steady-rest which I would probably need.
thanks!
There are many sources for Garolite LE besides McMasterCar, here's a fewThat M-C reference is exactly why i wrote my post as i did.
They are about the only source that includes linen phenolic (LE) under the Garolite name.
Everywhere else, "garolite" means fiberglass reinforced. Or G10
It is actually a brand name, for G10
Garolite Properties and Uses - Custom Materials Inc.
Garolite is a material that is used in the making of circuit boards. Greenish - yellow, it's highly recogmizable. Stable, rigid, high insulating factors.
I don't know how MC decided to use that name for LE, but they are big and have lawyers, so it must be ok.
But no one else uses that name, that way. Say "garolite" and every machinist i know thinks "G10/fiberglass"
So call it what you want, just be sure your source, if it is not MC, understands that you want linen.
smt
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The fit is the same, thread engagement is smoother with the wax coating, so without the friction of the precision fit. My truck isn't bigger when I wax it either. Maybe I just know how to do it?
There does seem to be a sea change, and i can't tell if people are piling on the "garolite LE" bandwagon because so many people didn't know the difference, of if Garolite now makes other products? I actually searched before making my last post, to see if "Is Garolite a company name" "Is Garolite a brand name" "who makes Garolite?" Every legitimate response noted WTTE "G-10 or garolite is a high-pressure fiberglass laminate, a type of composite material.[1] It is created by stacking multiple layers of glass cloth, soaked in epoxy resin" This is my familiarity, and awareness from decades on a machining site. I will repeat that if at least up until last year
if you said Garolite on a machining site, the general assumption was that you meant G10/G11 glass fiber; or possibly G9.However, i finally found another site that seems to support your awareness:
Grades of Garolite
Garolite is a high-pressure composite material, created by layering fibers, fabric, or paper with an epoxy or resin, then laminating under heat and pressure. Composites have the benefit of being lighter than metal, but strong and more rigid than plastic.
www.fixsupply.com
I still can't find anything on the company, but don't really have time to search.
Repeating my main point again as well which was not about semantics; it's about common usage, at least until recently: if you know what you are ordering from who, then it does not matter. If you are getting advice on a forum, have not used a product before, and are not product aware of the various formulations of laminated sheet, using the term "Garolite" can be risky especially if ordering on, say eBay.
For the OP's use, i believe specifying rolled linen phenolic (LE) rod is the correct material. If a company called Garolite makes that, great!
But being clear about the spec can save someone unfamiliar with it some possible wasted time, and perhaps effort with a product that might not be what everyone else meant, from either direction.
Have you used the MC product?
I still have some/ have not needed any to cost compare with other sources.
smt
Snookered, there are accepted correct ways to do a given job.
Then someone always comes up with yet one more incorrect way to complete a given job correctly.
So sometimes you just have to give it a go, and don't chinz out just because other people tell you you might fail.
Do your way, right. Not 1/2 ashed. Or maybe do a quick run through 1/2 ashed, use that to verify probability of success if you correct the process, then do it rigorously.
smt
That M-C reference is exactly why i wrote my post as i did.
They are about the only source that includes linen phenolic (LE) under the Garolite name.
Everywhere else, "garolite" means fiberglass reinforced. Or G10
It is actually a brand name, for G10
Garolite Properties and Uses - Custom Materials Inc.
Garolite is a material that is used in the making of circuit boards. Greenish - yellow, it's highly recogmizable. Stable, rigid, high insulating factors.
I don't know how MC decided to use that name for LE, but they are big and have lawyers, so it must be ok.
But no one else uses that name, that way. Say "garolite" and every machinist i know thinks "G10/fiberglass"
So call it what you want, just be sure your source, if it is not MC, understands that you want linen.
smt
I also stumbled on to the fixsupply.com site listing the grades of garolite. Gotta admit this is confusing, because I've also seen references stating Garolite is a "brand name" for glass impregnated resin, which aligns with your understanding. I bought quite a few garolite tubes years ago and don't recall which vendor I purchased from. I searched my orders from mccar and didn't find it there, but the order history only went back to Nov 2019. I'm pretty sure I purchased my tubes prior to that, but my memory isn't what it used to be. Anyway, I agree, when ordering, you need to specify garolite grade LE.There does seem to be a sea change, and i can't tell if people are piling on the "garolite LE" bandwagon because so many people didn't know the difference, of if Garolite now makes other products? I actually searched before making my last post, to see if "Is Garolite a company name" "Is Garolite a brand name" "who makes Garolite?" Every legitimate response noted WTTE "G-10 or garolite is a high-pressure fiberglass laminate, a type of composite material.[1] It is created by stacking multiple layers of glass cloth, soaked in epoxy resin" This is my familiarity, and awareness from decades on a machining site. I will repeat that if at least up until last year
However, i finally found another site that seems to support your awareness:
Grades of Garolite
Garolite is a high-pressure composite material, created by layering fibers, fabric, or paper with an epoxy or resin, then laminating under heat and pressure. Composites have the benefit of being lighter than metal, but strong and more rigid than plastic.
I still can't find anything on the company, but don't really have time to search.
Repeating my main point again as well which was not about semantics; it's about common usage, at least until recently: if you know what you are ordering from who, then it does not matter. If you are getting advice on a forum, have not used a product before, and are not product aware of the various formulations of laminated sheet, using the term "Garolite" can be risky especially if ordering on, say eBay.
For the OP's use, i believe specifying rolled linen phenolic (LE) rod is the correct material. If a company called Garolite makes that, great!
But being clear about the spec can save someone unfamiliar with it some possible wasted time, and perhaps effort with a product that might not be what everyone else meant, from either direction.
Have you used the MC product?
I still have some/ have not needed any to cost compare with other sources.
smt
Mike, I came across this and couldn't resist!!
Hope you and your family have a wonderful Thanksgiving
And THANKS for all your contributions here
Gary
Last edited:
snookered_again
Well-known member
drilling and threading it on my lathe makes more sense but Im not sure how to hold it without making up a steady rest and a tapered adapter.Snookered, there are accepted correct ways to do a given job.
Then someone always comes up with yet one more incorrect way to complete a given job correctly.
So sometimes you just have to give it a go, and don't chinz out just because other people tell you you might fail.
Do your way, right. Not 1/2 ashed. Or maybe do a quick run through 1/2 ashed, use that to verify probability of success if you correct the process, then do it rigorously.
smt
I can turn things between centers with a steady rest and a lathe dog,or maybe I can make my own tapered adapter that fits in a 4 jaw chuck so I can dial it in accurately. with a cue being tapered I can't just stick it in a chuck , I guess it could be wrapped with something but it obviously isnt' right.
maybe something like a plastic sleeve that has an internal bore taper that matches a cue with a slot in it so it can squeeze down a bit when the chuck is tightened?
I'm lacking a steady rest but maybe I can make one, Ive seen lots of examples of home constructed steady rests. If I can fool around and practice on junk cues I don't have a lot to loose. I'm not looking to buy a special lathe but there may be a way I can do this without a special cue makers lathe.
is there a video that shows the "right way" maybe making such a comparison would help.
I have a bunch of cues with plastic ferrules and the are often larger than the shaft. I thought I might make some brass ferrules up to fit the cues as I go.
the tips I have are so old, probably not worth using, is there a good place to buy quality tips? I can get them locally but wasnt' sure if perhaps I shoudl start with some recognised brand of tip rather than just any off the shelf ones. Other leather items seem to degrade with age so I assume the same goes for tips.
Hahaha
Happy Thanksgiving my friend.
Spindle and steady rest collets. Tapered inside, straight outside.
Attachments
dendweller
Well-known member
I think my tap was probably from Atlas 20 or so years ago. I ended up using an N drill, makes the rest of my shafts feel sloppy. Thanks
dendweller
Well-known member
What brand of wax do you use? I have a couple other shafts that aren't in really bad shape but they could be tighter, I'd like to give that a try. Thanks