Brass ferrule

DanO

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a customer insisting on replacing his G10 threaded ferrule/tip on his jump cue with brass. I know it's threaded Ø5/16-18 since I did it a few years back.

Thinking of removing the G10 & making a brass ferrule only a ½” long that is threaded completely through. The negative is the shorter tennon and the thick walled ferrule.

Another option is leave the G10 on the tennon and turn a thin walled brass tube ferrule to slide over the G10. Still only ½” long. Not a big fan of not threading metal though.

Any other ideas?
 
I've never come across a brass ferrule with a glue bond that has held up over time. Maybe it is the region I live in but the drastic temp and humidity changes cause the wood and brass to expand and contract at different rates. It affects the metal ferrule more than, say, a melamine because it will take the brass longer to acclimate since it is more dense.

Brass ferrules do have advantages in jump cues but not enough for me to switch to them.



<~~I could be over thinking...
 
Not a big fan of not threading metal though.

Any other ideas?

Hi Dan,

You can always tell him no, and you don't want to do that particular project.

To me, I would rather not get a job then do something and have it come back as a rework. They pound the hell out of those jump cues! I would think that a thicker tenon may a good idea????? But I don't know.

Without field testing, I would not do a brass ferrule.

Rick
 
Whats the advantage of having a brass ferrule on a jump cue? seems like it would just be more weight.
 
Over thinking a tiny bit. Just for clarification, it is the total amount of thermal growth that is the problem, not the speed of thermal growth.

Humidity has nothing to do with it unless the wood dries out a lot.

Two ways I would attempt to attach a brass ferrule are:

1. Use a very flexible bonding agent--maybe even room-temperatue-vulcanizing (RTV) silicone.

2. Use the thermal growth of brass to my advantage and cut the brass to a room-temperature interference fit of several thousandths. When installing the ferrule, heat it in an oven to 200-250 deg F and slide it over the tenon. Use no glue whatsoever. If done correctly (and the math is easy), the ferrule should never grow enough in normal conditions to come loose of the tenon.

dld

Nice trick! That's what i mean, the devil is always in the details.
 
Is the glue failing even if the ferrule is screwed on? Tommy D.

Yes.


Humidity has nothing to do with it unless the wood dries out a lot

Humidity is always a factor with cues. You'll never convince me otherwise.

Use the thermal growth of brass to my advantage and cut the brass to a room-temperature interference fit of several thousandths. When installing the ferrule, heat it in an oven to 200-250 deg F and slide it over the tenon. Use no glue whatsoever. If done correctly (and the math is easy), the ferrule should never grow enough in normal conditions to come loose of the tenon.

Cool idea but it's a lot to go through just for a brass ferrule and I'll still not sure that, over time, it will hold, especially if you do not use glue. Dry fitting anything on cues is a bad, bad idea.

I'm not one to ever argue with physics but I'm basing my opinions on my experiences. Some things always work out on paper but not in real life.
 
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Whats the advantage of having a brass ferrule on a jump cue? seems like it would just be more weight.
 
The brass is usually a press fit and is done at room temp.
When done properly, they do not come loose , all is in the prep work before it is fitted.
A brass ring was fitted to prevent the end fibres of the Ash shafts from splitting on the end underneath the tip.
The ring is not designed to be taking all the shock load of the tip and hit, just to keep the wood fibres together.
Often , and the good cues, use 1/2 hard drawn brass tube rather than a solid piece that has been drilled out.
Cheap cues, use quite a heavy walled brass that has been drilled and often is not well fitted or prepared in the 1st place.
Neil
 
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