It's a mystery to me but I'm sure everything will become clear in good time.
bridge length/level cue/stroke
- Thread starter evergruven
- Start date
It's a mystery to me but I'm sure everything will become clear in good time.
If the vee of the hand/loop of the hand is highest, and the cue tip at the ball is the lowest (cue stick angled down for the stroke), coming with the ferrule so far back that it slides a short distance along the vee will slightly level the stick (for most players/most bridges).
Horrible "diagram" above, the tip rides levelly along the vee of the hand, the base of the forefinger/thumb, stroke viewed from the side.
The tip is coming up, backwards toward the vee, reaches its apogee, slides levelly back along the vee between bridge thumb and forefinger, it takes a small pause and intention to begin the forward stroke well--this will greatly help the too-fast stroker slow their final forward stroke delivery, smoothing it. Try it to see what I mean.
Your "sharp" writing demonstrates the English language is a mystery to you.
pagaspoling
Member
You can develop a base setup by training straight in shots with draw, stun and follow. This will make you better at those shots in a practice setting and hopefully transfer to matches. The nice part of the shots where you hit in the vertical center of the ball is that you don't have to judge squirt, swerve or throw (cut and spin induced). You can practice your stroke and strike quality on these types of single shot drills.
But in a game setting is not about repeating a certain setup as much as adapt your setup to the shot at hand. In a game theres a lot of obstacles on the table that will make you have to adapt both bridge length and cue elevation. Also and most importantly is that in order to achieve certain outcomes you have to be able to judge and execute shots where bridge length and cue elevation is not where it would be in your generic stop shot drill.
I think that some personalities have an urge to solve this game with technique, I certainly am one of those. But in order to really perform it's really your skill that will set the ceiling of your game. Develop a nice and comfortable technique where you confidently can hit the cue ball where you want and then when you play just try to make the balls do what you want. Theres no magic setup that will work for all shots.
"The cue should be as level as possible" does not guarantee anything and should be changed with "The cue should be where it needs to be".
But in a game setting is not about repeating a certain setup as much as adapt your setup to the shot at hand. In a game theres a lot of obstacles on the table that will make you have to adapt both bridge length and cue elevation. Also and most importantly is that in order to achieve certain outcomes you have to be able to judge and execute shots where bridge length and cue elevation is not where it would be in your generic stop shot drill.
I think that some personalities have an urge to solve this game with technique, I certainly am one of those. But in order to really perform it's really your skill that will set the ceiling of your game. Develop a nice and comfortable technique where you confidently can hit the cue ball where you want and then when you play just try to make the balls do what you want. Theres no magic setup that will work for all shots.
"The cue should be as level as possible" does not guarantee anything and should be changed with "The cue should be where it needs to be".
I don't think so. Many beginners feel the need to jack up to 30 degrees when the cue ball is on the cushion. They feel the cue needs to be there to avoid a miscue. Many beginners need less elevation than they tend to use.
Your right, it is a horrible diagram. Reminds me of your 8 second video with the pen. Anyway, I did try it and it doesn't do what you describe.
Unless (as PJ stated) there's an elbow drop or some bizarre cocking of the wrist in some way it doesn't level out, even somewhat.
Furthermore, no one does what's in bold above. No one, not even you.
Even if it did level out somewhat for a half inch of it's travel at the very end of the backstroke, it's of zero relevance in the cue tip going through the CB at the desired point and angle. Your constant insistence that beginners bring the ferrule all the way back to the bridge hand is more of a hindrance than a help. It promotes inaccuracy way more than it does smoothness.
Have you discussed this with pro players, as I have?
Have you worked this student players, as I have?
Have you checked your assertions with other teachers, for example, Dr. Dave, who agrees with me regarding a long backstroke and smoothness, and disagrees with you?
Don't have to discuss it as when I'm playing with pros I can see they don't do it.
Wouldn't subject any students to your assertions. I want them to improve.
If Dr Dave said it, it must be true.
Is the 10ball vid coming soon?
I'll spell it out for you.
Since the cue stick for most shots is angled downward toward the cloth rather than parallel to the cloth, continuing the back stroke beyond where the ferrule reaches the vee of the hand either changes direction to ride levelly along the meat of the hand, or continues the upward movement to go into the air off the bridge hand!
You are a bad liar ("I tried what you wrote").
If you want to keep debating me on issues, can you refrain from personal attacks?
I have students who pay me for lessons, an instructional DVD and two pool instruction books, many instructional articles, and am recognized as a quality instructor by InsidePool and a number of pool pros and fellow pool instructors.
And if you want to keep debating your comment, Given that the grip hand rises as the cue is drawn back (unless you drop your elbow), how does it "level somewhat" when it's drawn back more? it levels quite naturally without conscious effort. I've seen multiple players and students do it.
If you teach something unorthodox I'll try it and learn from it, but never vice versa. Why do you resist trying pool techniques you're not already familiar with? Isn't that the opposite of being a good learner?
You don't "debate" issues, you make nonsensical claims you don't understand and when called on it you switch to claiming fantasy "qualifications". If you crave respect, I suggest you stay off public forums where some people actually know things - you'll only embarrass yourself again.
pj
chgo
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He does have a small amount of entertainment value.
He also seems immune to embarrassment.
Maybe I'll make a video about what you're describing. Right after you post the 10ball ghost video.
I can ignore your being rude (and ridiculous), but I notice that you fly off the handle whenever a non-orthodox pool technique is presented--not just by me. Your own game will not improve as long as you shut your mind to innovative ideas.
That's the wrong way to look at it. As far as this forum goes, he has no entertainment value. Everyone can judge for themselves regarding his frame of mind. What's important is to challenge ANYONE who posts nonsense that an unknowing player may follow. If any of his posts offering advice fall into the nonsense category, then just keep pointing it out to everyone and ignore his nonsensical responses. Everyone can see through them.
evergruven, you have requested thoughts and advice. I think it would be good if you did you own experiment and find your own results.
Try this. Shoot a straight in 5 foot shot with the object ball right in the middle. Shoot it with a CONSISTENT but comfortable bridge length and comfortable cue angle. First shoot 10 stop shots, cueing center ball. If you cannot make 10 in a row then go to a distance where you can. Now you have your benchmark.
Now try 10 shots with low/left English. After a few practice shots, if you do not have success then change your bridge length OR cue angle. This may give you a feel for what length/angle YOU are trying to achieve. Good luck.