Brunswick Gold Crown Light / Diamond Light Dimensions
- Thread starter rexus31
- Start date
I don't own one but this is what someone else posted back in march on dimensions of the GC light.
The light measures 100"L x 31.5"W x 10"H
I'm guessing that these are outside measurements with the 10"H being the widest point in the center curve on all 4 curves.
If there is a pool hall in your area that has one (or a billiard supply shop) then I would suggest going and shooting for a bit and taking along a tape measure and a camera. If you tell whoever is working what you are doing up front they really shouldn't mind. I did this at several places when I was trying to get a design in my head for a better overhead light. If you do build one I would suggest going with inline 4' bulbs instead of the 8' that Brunswick and Diamond use. In a home it's a pain to store and dispose of 8' bulbs. I would also recommend using Aluminum Eggcrate Louvers (reflective) as opposed to the cheaper white plastic that has been standard on the GC lights. Anyone who has changed from white to reflective will tell you it's a better (more even) spread of light over the table.
Here are a couple of photos that might help you calculate the inner wood and how it is constructed. I have collected more if you need them. I also believe that I still have the dimensions for both the wider and the (newer) more narrow Diamond lights. I'll upload that info when (and if) I find it as well.
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Hi there,
I have an older Diamond. It uses 4 full sized diffusers [24"x48"'] . This gives an area of 48" x 96". The overall dimensions are an additional 4", approximately. This will allow you to cut from full sheet plywood and add corner blocks. I'd use the full size grids as a starting point for your design. The only additional design tip I'd offer is don't make the side square, taper them inward at the top... maybe 15 degrees or whatever suits your eye. This eliminates a boxy feel and makes it a bit more elegant. The Diamond that I have uses this design detail and it makes a difference.
As for the quality of the light... terrific.
If you have the opportunity to eyeball one of these, take it.
It is just a plywood box... but Diamond put some thought into its design and constuction.
Measure twice cut once!
Dave
I have an older Diamond. It uses 4 full sized diffusers [24"x48"'] . This gives an area of 48" x 96". The overall dimensions are an additional 4", approximately. This will allow you to cut from full sheet plywood and add corner blocks. I'd use the full size grids as a starting point for your design. The only additional design tip I'd offer is don't make the side square, taper them inward at the top... maybe 15 degrees or whatever suits your eye. This eliminates a boxy feel and makes it a bit more elegant. The Diamond that I have uses this design detail and it makes a difference.
As for the quality of the light... terrific.
If you have the opportunity to eyeball one of these, take it.
It is just a plywood box... but Diamond put some thought into its design and constuction.
Measure twice cut once!
Dave
Yea, just what Dave said. I have looked at several different grids from different manufactures, that all listed them at 24" x 48". I have yet to put a tape measure on any that were sized as listed. They all seem to run anywhere from 1/4" to as much as 1/2" smaller than advertised. I wouldn't cut the 1st piece of wood without having bought the deflectors first to build around.
I also opted to go with a more expensive deflector than the ones at HD and Lowes. Inspect through a stack at either store and you will probably find a lot of them broken somewhere or with the metal coating flaked a small bit here and there.
Just like setting up a table, you only want to deal with it once. I'm a bit OCD about my table... I measure 3 or 4 times sometimes on some things.
If you are going to build from scratch, you might want to consider LED lighting. Its still new in the pool world, so its not as well figured out as the typical florescent lighting is.
Here is a thread Mohrt started showing his prototype and where he got all the parts from.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=301375
Here is a thread Mohrt started showing his prototype and where he got all the parts from.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=301375
Thanks for the input, guys. I'm going to go with a straight up and down "boxy" design as that is how my table is built and I want a light to match the table.
I've already got a metal shop that can fab up similar aluminum corner castings and I am working with a local vinyl graphics house to replicate the table skirt laminate woodgrain design on self adhesive vinyl. I like the design on the bottom of the GC Light; framing in the diffusers looks clean. I wonder how they get them to sit flush.
I've already got a metal shop that can fab up similar aluminum corner castings and I am working with a local vinyl graphics house to replicate the table skirt laminate woodgrain design on self adhesive vinyl. I like the design on the bottom of the GC Light; framing in the diffusers looks clean. I wonder how they get them to sit flush.
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Here's what I have so far. There will be an 1/8" reveal of the diffuser frame around the diffusers which I think will be a nice detail.
I'll have to add 1" to the end of the 1/2" plywood to achieve an overall length of 97" to accommodate my (2) 96" fixtures (uses four bulbs each)
Once constructed, what is the optimal height to hang it?
Scott
I'll have to add 1" to the end of the 1/2" plywood to achieve an overall length of 97" to accommodate my (2) 96" fixtures (uses four bulbs each)
Once constructed, what is the optimal height to hang it?
Scott
Thanks for the info and pics, very helpful. Would you happen to have any shots of the mechanism on the light itself used to hang it? I was thinking of using eye hooks on mine.
Hi,
I would suggest 1/4" for the top with 3 or 4@ 1"x4" braces running across the short dimension. Secure your fixtures to these and hang your chain or rod from these as well.
I'd also suggest that you use 3'/4" plywood for the side.
Painting the interior white will help to even out the light.
Dave
I would suggest 1/4" for the top with 3 or 4@ 1"x4" braces running across the short dimension. Secure your fixtures to these and hang your chain or rod from these as well.
I'd also suggest that you use 3'/4" plywood for the side.
Painting the interior white will help to even out the light.
Dave
Thanks for your recommendations. I do plan on painting the interior of the assembly white for the purpose you mentioned. I am going to use 1/2" ply on the sides as I was able to get the aluminum corner pieces made out of 1/2" plate (want them to line up).
Do you recommend secure the fixtures to the 1x4 for cooling or support purposes?
Sorry... I've been off the hook a lot the last few days. Is this what you wanted to see? I left them full sized as I found them to help you zoom in on the build.
BTW, I like your plans better on the corners than Brunswick's. Every GC light that I have seen shows light through the seams at the corners where the wood joins. It looks like your design would easily take care of that. But then again I don't know why Brunswick wasn't OCD enough to ad a little something inside of the case to hide the light seeping out at the corners. It isn't distracting... but at what they charged for these things you wouldn't expect it to have any light leaks. Diamond's don't leak any light.
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Thanks for the input, guys. I'm going to go with a straight up and down "boxy" design as that is how my table is built and I want a light to match the table.
I've already got a metal shop that can fab up similar aluminum corner castings and I am working with a local vinyl graphics house to replicate the table skirt laminate woodgrain design on self adhesive vinyl. I like the design on the bottom of the GC Light; framing in the diffusers looks clean. I wonder how they get them to sit flush.
I emailed Simonis back in February. I told them that I had just had a table installed with Simonis 860 and asked if they could send me some Simonis table spots (smuzed a bit about how great my cloth is and wanting to only use Simonis spots on the best billiard cloth made) even though I only use Tefco Master Spots (much thinner and smaller than Simonis). Anyway they replied back the same day and said that they would mail some spots out to me. The email only said that they would send "a couple".
It took about a month before I got them but they sent a large packet with two sheets of spots, cloth samples... and (here is the good part) two (white) Simonis water decals (just like the ones on your table). They sent everything for free and paid the shipping on this large padded envelope. I thought that if you wanted to decal your light this might be an important thing to know. The email is [COLOR="Green"]info@simoniscloth.com[/COLOR]
Light height
The light should be hung anywhere over 40 inches from the slate. Some guys like it higher but 40 inches is normal.thats a good place to start and adjust from there.
Good luck,
gordon
The light should be hung anywhere over 40 inches from the slate. Some guys like it higher but 40 inches is normal.thats a good place to start and adjust from there.
Good luck,
gordon
Thanks for the offer on the decals. The decals on my table are actually vinyl stickers I had made from a local vinyl graphics company. They did them all including the fab of the AMF Magic Triangle. They have the artwork on hand so all I need to do is tell them what size and they can make the AMF, Simonis, Magic Rack, Artemis and Aramith stickers. Let me know if anyone needs them.
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Thanks for the info. I was planning to hang the fixture 76"-78" from the floor which will be 45"-47" from the slate. Any shorter than that, taller players will be banging their heads on the light.
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The optimal height would be between 31" to 33" from the top of your table.
Maybe for a three lamp fixture. You would get an nice tan with one game of 9 ball with a Brunswick light that low.
I was thinking more like 45"-46" off the slate bed.
You mean the heights varies with the type of light fixture? Hmm. I didn't know that! I thought the heights are universal and standard.
Will do more research on this and post a full guide for the heights on my website soon!