Brunswick rails

M

Monti

Well-known member
Hi I have just bought a gold crown that has been refurbished recently
On taking it apart, II see this strip, is it normal or has that been done to raise the rail height because of possibly the wrong rubber installed
If that’s the case then does it really matter, so long as the rubber height is correct?
Thanks for any input
 

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Monti said:
Hi I have just bought a gold crown that has been refurbished recently
On taking it apart, II see this strip, is it normal or has that been done to raise the rail height because of possibly the wrong rubber installed
If that’s the case then does it really matter, so long as the rubber height is correct?
Thanks for any input
Click to expand...
Looking forward to seeing what the mechanics have to say about this. I've not seen that but first instinct is telling me it's a hack bandaid for improper work but I'm not a mechanic.
 
Definitely not standard.
It would make sense if the table was originally a snooker table, as they have thinner rails. However, if it were a standard pocket table, this would suggest to me that the sub-rails have been improperly modified..

Even if this were an early Gold Crown III model (with the old Monarch rubber), installing a K55 cushion on the factory sub-rail would not lower the nose height enough to merit this thick of a spacer.... Installing a K66 cushion on the factory sub-rail would cause the nose height to be 1/16" high...

I'm going to say that this is a simple backyard fix for a backyard mistake.
 
What model GC is it.
I don't know why someone would modify rails as K55 rubbers go straight on.
 
bradsh98 said:
Definitely not standard.
It would make sense if the table was originally a snooker table, as they have thinner rails. However, if it were a standard pocket table, this would suggest to me that the sub-rails have been improperly modified..

Even if this were an early Gold Crown III model (with the old Monarch rubber), installing a K55 cushion on the factory sub-rail would not lower the nose height enough to merit this thick of a spacer.... Installing a K66 cushion on the factory sub-rail would cause the nose height to be 1/16" high...

I'm going to say that this is a simple backyard fix for a backyard mistake.
Click to expand...
1/8" inch difference between K66 and K55 on a GC.
 
realkingcobra said:
Don't matter which model it is, do me a favor and measure the distance from the nose of the cushions to the formica finish on the rails, I need to know what that is.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the replies. As you can see the table was renovated black
 

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Monti said:
Thanks for the replies. As you can see the table was renovated black
Click to expand...
Olny thing i can think of was that who ever did the work must have cut the sub rails off, glued up new rail blocks, then cut the bevel to low for the cushion nose height to be at 1 7/16'. Once realizing he screwed up, instead of cutting them off again and doing the job right, he shimmed the bottom of the rails up to get the nose height up to where it needs to be.

I'll say it again, finished pictures of the tables hide all the work that tells the truth about the skills of the mechanic, which is why its rare for a mechanic to ever show those pictures. Those are the pictures I want to see, although your table looks great in the finished pictures, this table supports my claim. I can't tell whats been done to those rails with the cloth installed.
 
realkingcobra said:
Olny thing i can think of was that who ever did the work must have cut the sub rails off, glued up new rail blocks, then cut the bevel to low for the cushion nose height to be at 1 7/16'. Once realizing he screwed up, instead of cutting them off again and doing the job right, he shimmed the bottom of the rails up to get the nose height up to where it needs to be.

I'll say it again, finished pictures of the tables hide all the work that tells the truth about the skills of the mechanic, which is why its rare for a mechanic to ever show those pictures. Those are the pictures I want to see, although your table looks great in the finished pictures, this table supports my claim. I can't tell whats been done to those rails with the cloth installed.
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the replies. Just for my info, could you tell what model it was from those photos?
Also presuming that is what he has done and rail height is now 1 7/16. , the table should play fine but will just have an ugly slight gap between rail and table ?
 
Monti said:
Thanks for all the replies. Just for my info, could you tell what model it was from those photos?
Also presuming that is what he has done and rail height is now 1 7/16. , the table should play fine but will just have an ugly slight gap between rail and table ?
Click to expand...
No, it won't be fine, you'll find out as the cloth breaks in. The body of the cushion is higher than it should be, which determines how the nose of the cushions are going to react when the balls come into contact with them. So don't be surprised if the table starts banking short and playing springy.
 
realkingcobra said:
No, it won't be fine, you'll find out as the cloth breaks in. The body of the cushion is higher than it should be, which determines how the nose of the cushions are going to react when the balls come into contact with them. So don't be surprised if the table starts banking short and playing springy.
Click to expand...
Hi. I was just playing and remembered this post. Just wanted to say that you are spot on, the rails bounce fast, almost feels like they come off faster than they hit them and banking is short. When you get two seconds I’d appreciate you trying to explain why it does this, I can’t quite get my head around the physics of it
Once again appreciate your knowledge
 
It has to do with where the main body of the cushion sits in relation to the nose. if the back of the cushion is moved up or down, (nose height still correct) the rebound is affected.
 
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