Buffing UV curing finish????

cueman

cueman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a member in our International Cuemakers Association who invested well over $1000 on the UV light and UV curing finish. He was having a very hard time sanding and buffing the finish back to a brilliant shine. I told him to send me a butt with the finish on it, but not sanded. I sanded it down to 2000 grit and tried several different buffing materials and could not get it to come back to a very good shine. I used to say the Cue Cote was hard to buff, but it is a piece of cake compared to this.
I need to speed up my finsihing process and think UV might be the way to go, but can't use it if I can't sand and buff it. The only advice I have got so far is "put it on smooth enough that you don't have to sand or buff it."
I use carbide joint masters and have to sand it to match them so not sanding is out of the question for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Chris
www.internationalcuemakers.com
www.cuesmith.com
 
The obvious thing would be to contact the manufacturer and ask them what they could suggest.

Sometimes we overlook the obvious.
 
Chris, Rick Phillippi has a $10,000 UV set up. Give him a call. 410-437-2386
Don P.
I called myself.
1) wet sand 2000 grit
2) Rick uses a 3-M Perfect-It product
3) 3-M Imperial Hand Glaze
4) Gloss auto wax
Step 4 is not necessary, he likes to do it anyway.

Tell him Don told ya! He can elaborate on the products.
 
Last edited:
cueman said:
I have a member in our International Cuemakers Association who invested well over $1000 on the UV light and UV curing finish. He was having a very hard time sanding and buffing the finish back to a brilliant shine. I told him to send me a butt with the finish on it, but not sanded. I sanded it down to 2000 grit and tried several different buffing materials and could not get it to come back to a very good shine. I used to say the Cue Cote was hard to buff, but it is a piece of cake compared to this.
I need to speed up my finsihing process and think UV might be the way to go, but can't use it if I can't sand and buff it. The only advice I have got so far is "put it on smooth enough that you don't have to sand or buff it."
I use carbide joint masters and have to sand it to match them so not sanding is out of the question for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Chris
www.internationalcuemakers.com
www.cuesmith.com
Click to expand...

You can call these people, they are very helpfull.

http://www.epoxycoatingsco.com/uv_curable_coatings.html
 
cueman said:
I have a member in our International Cuemakers Association who invested well over $1000 on the UV light and UV curing finish. He was having a very hard time sanding and buffing the finish back to a brilliant shine. I told him to send me a butt with the finish on it, but not sanded. I sanded it down to 2000 grit and tried several different buffing materials and could not get it to come back to a very good shine. I used to say the Cue Cote was hard to buff, but it is a piece of cake compared to this.
I need to speed up my finsihing process and think UV might be the way to go, but can't use it if I can't sand and buff it. The only advice I have got so far is "put it on smooth enough that you don't have to sand or buff it."
I use carbide joint masters and have to sand it to match them so not sanding is out of the question for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Chris
www.internationalcuemakers.com
www.cuesmith.com
Click to expand...


"carbide joint masters"

Do you sell these?
 
macguy said:
"carbide joint masters"

Do you sell these?
Click to expand...
No I don't sell them. Blud builds them. They run about $550 a set, but beware I ordered another set 4 months ago and still don't have them. With his wifes health problems he still can't give me a time they will be ready. Keep Janice in your prayers and Leonard too as both are going through a lot right now.
Chris
 
Donald A. Purdy said:
Chris, Rick Phillippi has a $10,000 UV set up. Give him a call. 410-437-2386
Don P.
I called myself.
1) wet sand 2000 grit
2) Rick uses a 3-M Perfect-It product
3) 3-M Imperial Hand Glaze
4) Gloss auto wax
Step 4 is not necessary, he likes to do it anyway.

Tell him Don told ya! He can elaborate on the products.
Click to expand...
Don't want to bother him. I tried these same products. I am wondering if the stuff has to be buffed almost immediately after drying. Some auto finishes won't buff well after a few days.
SHERM you use it. What do you suggest?
 
cueman said:
No I don't sell them. Blud builds them. They run about $550 a set, but beware I ordered another set 4 months ago and still don't have them. With his wifes health problems he still can't give me a time they will be ready. Keep Janice in your prayers and Leonard too as both are going through a lot right now.
Chris
Click to expand...
$550 a set???? WOOOOOOOOOO lol
Good thing i'm making mine myself, two sets lol...
I'm thinking about machining a morse taper on the ends, and take a chuck off of a wood lathe, it would be dead on that way :D .
Oh, they won't be carbide, just plain old oil hardened steel, they still should last awhile though.

Thanks,

Jon
 
BiG_JoN said:
Oh, they won't be carbide, just plain old oil hardened steel, they still should last awhile though.

Thanks,

Jon
Click to expand...

Big Jon
I made my first ones out of oil hardened. They last a while with care but not as long as you would like them to.
 
Michael Webb said:
Big Jon
I made my first ones out of oil hardened. They last a while with care but not as long as you would like them to.
Click to expand...
How long did your's last? In either time or number of cues. You can ask Joey, people are wanting an arm and leg for carbide bushings @.875 (.625" I.D.). I had a quote for some at a good price with a 4 week lead time, but didn't have the cash laying around at the time, and they have went up since.
I plan on makings some carbides soon enough, probably in a year or so. Just have to find a way to get the tool post grinder dead on the angle it needs to be.
If i were going to be using a standard pin, i could buy them in SS, but they wouldn't last very long. I'm probably going to bore all of them out and press in phenolic (or delrin) "inserts" and thread those for my pin, and epoxy the pin in for the female masters. They should end up dead on that way. Or i could just use a longer piece and thread it, about the same amount of work either way.

Thanks,

Jon <-(The long winded one)
Thanks,

Jon
 
Best price I've been quoted on carbide ring ( with half a degree taper ) is around $85 each.
 
No wonder you are getting quoted so high. Are you asking for them already ground to finish size? Grind 'em yourself you lazy bastard :p .

Thanks,

Jon
 
On the oil hardened ones, 10 to 20 cues. I have my own stock on carbide so I just have then ground as I need to. Where I do a lot of refinishing on other cues, I have a good inventory. No matter what you pay they are well worth it. It is a very important tool. I bought my first set and paid $1000.00 for a 4 pc. set and never had any regrets, after that with so many different cues I worked on, it was easier and more cost effective to stock my own carbide.
 
Michael Webb said:
On the oil hardened ones, 10 to 20 cues. I have my own stock on carbide so I just have then ground as I need to. Where I do a lot of refinishing on other cues, I have a good inventory. No matter what you pay they are well worth it. It is a very important tool. I bought my first set and paid $1000.00 for a 4 pc. set and never had any regrets, after that with so many different cues I worked on, it was easier and more cost effective to stock my own carbide.
Click to expand...
Do you grind the carbide with the angle Mike or just flat?
Thanx.
 
Hi Joe:
I have them ground with a .020 taper. The carbide sleeves I use are 1" long so it's .020 across the 2 inches.
 
Is there no one on here that can buff the UV curing finish after sanding? I want to hear some first hand experience.
Chris
 
cueman said:
Is there no one on here that can buff the UV curing finish after sanding? I want to hear some first hand experience.
Chris
Click to expand...
I think you have to use a buffing wheel...why don't you call someone that has it?
 
Ted Harris said:
I think you have to use a buffing wheel...why don't you call someone that has it?
Click to expand...
Hmmm, what about a buffing wheel on a Toolpost Grinder? That's a thought...

Thanks,

Jon
 
Ted Harris said:
I think you have to use a buffing wheel...why don't you call someone that has it?
Click to expand...
I have called some and was told to get the last coat on smooth enough that it doesn't need to be sanded. That is not an option for me. I don't want to bother anyone else that I don't know pretty well.
 
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