Building a Spray Booth - Few Questions

Tony Zinzola

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm finally building a spray booth. Looking for a few heating and ventilation suggestions. I have a separate small room in my basement that I can do my spraying in, but I can't have any fumes going through the house.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I'm finally building a spray booth. Looking for a few heating and ventilation suggestions. I have a separate small room in my basement that I can do my spraying in, but I can't have any fumes going through the house.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Not what you asked about but something you need to think about and look into. You are working at home. I see you have a website. I don't know if you have an occupational license. I don't know if you build cues as a hobby or as a profession but either way it is for financial gain. Here is the point. If you had a fire your home owners insurance may not pay off because you are running a business from your home and it resulted in the loss. You may be risking losing hundreds of thousands just to build a few cues. I do know of a case where this happened with a guy who built furniture in his basement so it is not far fetched.
 
Good Point

macguy said:
Not what you asked about but something you need to think about and look into. You are working at home. I see you have a website. I don't know if you have an occupational license. I don't know if you build cues as a hobby or as a profession but either way it is for financial gain. Here is the point. If you had a fire your home owners insurance may not pay off because you are running a business from your home and it resulted in the loss. You may be risking losing hundreds of thousands just to build a few cues. I do know of a case where this happened with a guy who built furniture in his basement so it is not far fetched.

Good Point! Thanks for sharing the insight.:)
 
RocketQ said:
Yes because insurance companies are a joke.....

yeah, we pay at least a nice sneaky a month for insurance between cars, house and buisness, can't wait to use it.....:groucho:
 
Tony,

I still haven't finished My booth yet, but I bought an old belt driven furnace blower for My exaust. I may end up changing It out eventually, but I'm gonna give it a try first, and atleast I can mount the motor out of the air stream and away from the fumes. Explosion proof blowers are pretty expensive.


Greg
 
RFisher said:
yeah, we pay at least a nice sneaky a month for insurance between cars, house and buisness, can't wait to use it.....:groucho:
I pay $8500 a year for property insurance, $12,000 for health for my wife and I. Only $800 for my car. add another $14,000 for property tax. I pay over a $1000. a year just to have my garbage taken away. Forget the rest of my cost of living. I am ready to go live in a trailer somewhere and forget it all.
 
macguy said:
I pay $8500 a year for property insurance, $12,000 for health for my wife and I. Only $800 for my car. add another $14,000 for property tax. I pay over a $1000. a year just to have my garbage taken away. Forget the rest of my cost of living. I am ready to go live in a trailer somewhere and forget it all.

you live in absecon nj too??? lol
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I'm finally building a spray booth. Looking for a few heating and ventilation suggestions. I have a separate small room in my basement that I can do my spraying in, but I can't have any fumes going through the house.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

If you're shooting finish in your house (basement or whatever), I'd put the overall toxicity level at about the same as a meth lab. Are you sure you want to treat your family to that? "Daddy, what's that smell?"
 
macguy said:
I pay $8500 a year for property insurance, $12,000 for health for my wife and I. Only $800 for my car. add another $14,000 for property tax. I pay over a $1000. a year just to have my garbage taken away. Forget the rest of my cost of living. I am ready to go live in a trailer somewhere and forget it all.

Dad-gum, Dude! Where do you live, California? I couldn't imagine paying that much! You need to move to the central states. Everything is behind the times around here. I bet Louisiana is even slower. Then, there's Texas, with no state taxes.... (They haven't changed that, have they?)
 
You are going to have to find a way to have all the overspray and fumes be completely contained in ducting that vents only to the outside.

Todays finishes are way too dangerous to have them contaminate your home and if you spray in the basement, they will permeate everywhere. I sprayed a few cues in a basement with nitrocellulose laquer in the "60's and they stunk up the whole house 3rd floor and all.

I finally built a spray room on an outside porch where I insulated every surface, floor to ceiling, covered it with vinyl or panelling and put an expolson proof tubeaxial fan in the end wall opposite the outside door which I covered with filters for air inlet.

Best bet, spray outside.
 
I'm currently spraying outside. I walk out my basement door and I'm under my 3 season porch and pretty much enclosed. My problem is that it gets cold here in the winter. I'm thinking of building a heated booth outside. I'm also looking into alternative finishes, the problem is every one I've tried looks like garbage.

I won't even open a can of thinner or clear in the house currently. I can smell it upstairs if I do.
 
How about an outdoors storage shed, say 10 x 10 or 10 x 12, set on skids.
If it's not attached to the house, it shouldn't affect your taxes.
Trench some 10ga. Romex for your electric, build a box next to the shed for the compressor so it's always drawing outside air. You can put the comp. in the shed if you can stand the noise, just make sure it draws all it's air from outside the shed.

I don't mean to sound like I'm making light of your problem but you're dealing with substances that can adversely affect people's health.
 
I agree with you KJ. That's why I'm trying to find something that is going to work for me.

I have a shed about 50 feet from my house. I have power about 20 feet from the shed already. Getting the power to the shed isn't going to be an issue.

Maybe I'll look into a second compressor for the shed. It actually has a covered section outside of it that I could put the compressor.

My only issue in the shed will be heat. I guess electric heaters will be my solution, but I better insulate the thing.
 
Tony,
I was briefly pondering your heat source earlier today and it struck me. Heat lamps. Much less risk of explosion. The electric htrs. have an exposed coil, much like an open flame. You could have some control over the lamps and they'll come in handy for quick curing your finish. I shoot auto-clear. I can deliver a shaft in 3 hrs. from the time I start shooting.
 
Thanks KJ. I'll look into them. Maybe I'll get an electric heater to preheat the shed, then use the heat lamps while spraying.

I remembered later today that I had another compressor lying around, so I don't even need to get a compressor. My wifes all for using the shed, so that looks like what I'll be doing. The snow blower takes up a lot of room in there during the summer, but it's outside all winter anyway.

If anybody knows of a cheap source for the Heat lamps, pass on some links. I'll do some searching tomorrow. Off to play pool right now.
 
Electrical Equipment in Spray area

If you have sufficient oxygen (part of air), fuel (finish) and a spark - you get a fire. Too much or too little of one and you do not get the fire. Like the legs on a three leg stool.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_triangle

If you have any electrical equipment in the area of this finish / fuel mixture - you better consider all Class I Division 1 cetrified and tested equipment. This includes wiring methods and lighting assemblies. Underwriters Laboratory (UL) is an example of a third party that test and certifies equipment for use in different hazardous location.

http://www.ul.com/hazloc/define.htm

You better consider checking on the level of heat from any lights or lamps to ensure it does not get high enough to ignite. The "T Rating" on lighting systems and motors deal with surface temperatures.

http://www.foxfury.com/applications/professional/t6_rating.htm

One way to keep the level of finish in the air is to thin out the mixture with plenty of fresh air. This is the cold air you will find outside in your case.

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/720.cfm
 
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