How do you guy's burnish tips? I wet the tip and then touch it with 2000 grit sandpaper, seems to work well on layered tips but doesn't work well on Lepros that have been trimmed. I'm looking for that dark brown look and can't get it......any help would be appreciated
Burnishing
- Thread starter Ali88
- Start date
Spit and a piece of scrap leather. This is assuming you have a lathe to turn it on while burnishing. If you don't have access to a lathe, there are cheap nylon burnishing tools available for a few bucks that do a good job. I believe Porper markets them. Check out Mueller Sporting Goods. The only thing is you have to be careful with them so you don't burnish the tip right off the cue.
I use spit and a new dollar bill. Seems to work fine for me.
Ali88 said:
Sand the tip sides & finish with 600 grit sandpaper. On a paper towel put a small amount of AMONIA & apply it ti the tip edge. Thenburnish with a piece of undyed leather. Color the edge,with a brown Sharpie marker. Finish with a light coating of super glue gel. Wipe the excess off & you're done. Last year I did over 1000 this way...JER
Burnishing Tips
I start with a drop of two of water applied to the edge of the tip with the lathe turning at slow speed. Next I simply place the tip between a folded up piece of cardboard (A piece with NO ink on it) and increase the speed to about 700 rpm and apply a little pressure. Don't do it too long as you don't want to heat up the ferrule and tip glue. I have done that way for many years.
In another live I applied Black ink from a Sharpie and it looks nice. The only problem is that the ink transfers onto the cloth of the pool table (with a mis-cue etc.) and marks it up pretty bad.
If you don't have a lathe you can rub the edge of the tip against a piece of wood or other hard smooth object as you are rotating the cue and get a pretty good burnish on the edge. Don't apply so much pressure that you knock off the tip.
Good luck,
Ali88 said:
I start with a drop of two of water applied to the edge of the tip with the lathe turning at slow speed. Next I simply place the tip between a folded up piece of cardboard (A piece with NO ink on it) and increase the speed to about 700 rpm and apply a little pressure. Don't do it too long as you don't want to heat up the ferrule and tip glue. I have done that way for many years.
In another live I applied Black ink from a Sharpie and it looks nice. The only problem is that the ink transfers onto the cloth of the pool table (with a mis-cue etc.) and marks it up pretty bad.
If you don't have a lathe you can rub the edge of the tip against a piece of wood or other hard smooth object as you are rotating the cue and get a pretty good burnish on the edge. Don't apply so much pressure that you knock off the tip.
Good luck,
Spit and and find the nearest pool table and use the cloth on the rail.. 
I use a polish cleaner I get from Cue stock and a small old washcloth. USually helps to try to use a tip that is as close to the size that you need. The excess glue should be cleaned from the ferrule. I will clean the excess glue that squeezes out when I press the tip on before it starts to set. you don't want to have to use sandpaper to clean it off after it dries. That's bad form. I don't like to cut to much sidewall off the tip. Can make the tip break down easier I think, especially LE Pros. I use a razor blad to cut the exces tip edge off, people cringe when they watch me hold a razor blade right up on it's side behind the bottom of the tip edge where it meets the ferrule. I've have never had a blade slip. I cut the edge very cleanly as the shaft is turning, at about 800 rpm or so. faster makes for a cleaner cut on the leather for me, and a nice sharp blade is a must. if you do this correctly, and cut cleanly, the leather will be easier to burnish. I Then touch up the sides of the tip with some 320-400 sand paper and then put a little polish on the tip side and use my rag to and 2 hands to work the polish in. I will get the edges a little hot, it's a feel I have through the rag. I think the clean cut helps make for a nice sidewall that won't break down as easy or mushroom as much. MUST watch the heat though on many ferrule materials. Predators will melt pretty easy as will Meucci. Both use a softer plastic for ferrule material. Best to keep the heat only on the tip sides. A smooth surface on the tip edge is imperative for a good burnish, in my opinion. I also don't like to leave all tip on there. for my personal cues I will take as much as 50% off right from the start because I like the way the tip plays at that level. To much tip will probably need to have the mushroom taken off after a few days of shooting with it. especially if you break with the same cue. This was a lengthy explanation for a simple thing but I believe that the burnish is just a final touch on a complete process, As in all aspects of cue making every step is important for complete, finished piece. Just my 2 cents. Good old water will work in the same way, I ust like the polish.
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Finger Nail Files
Go to your local Dollar Store, and buy Fingernail files (10 per pack) - 2 packages for $1. They work wonders....
Go to your local Dollar Store, and buy Fingernail files (10 per pack) - 2 packages for $1. They work wonders....
Ali88 said:
Hello, after you have trimmed the tip to size apply regular super to the tips edge. Then complete any sanding and shaping needed to prepare the tip for burnishing. Next step spin the tip in the lathe and apply a piece of wax paper to the area to be burnished. Last while the tip is spinning in the lathe apply a piece of plain cardboard, this in addition to the wax paper will burnish and polish the edge of the tip. This procedure works on any kind of tip layered or not, it can also be done by hand anywhere, so carry a peice in your cue case. Cardboard is also great for polishing shafts after cleaning, it is pretty amazing what a little card board will do. I hope this helps, and have a great night.
William
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