Yes, I've had joints refaced when it helps, but don't forget I am mostly trying to restore collectible cues, not trying to improve a warped cue for playing, so I only reface if the joint and shaft surfaces are misaligned. I've had many a handle replaced, which is, of course, expensive, and have had forearms exchanged, etc.
I have a process to determine exactly where a warp is located. Usually if the joint lies flat then lifts and drops flat again, the warp is in the neck, somewhere between the upper wrap area and the joint. I use a narrow surface to test the flat roll of each section of the cue, eyeballing any gaps, etc.
Skins is quite correct, a re-facing of the joint can help a cue that's warped up by the joint. To test to see if a reface will help, cut some small 1/4" squares of thin paper. Sight down the cue from the butt end and slowly turn it. When you see the shaft turn offline to the right, note or mark the area to the right side of the joint and unscrew the joint a little. Insert a sheet or two of the thin paper shims into the joint on that side. Turn the cue again and see if the shaft stays online. add or subtract shims as necessary. If you can reduce the roll to a minimum then a reface will definitely help. If the warp is in the handle or the handle to buttsleeve tenon, a reface is not a good idea. Re-facing is inexpensive - maybe $25.
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