Butt with slight warp

Rosewood

Active member
I have a cue butt that is a plain Jane zebra wood with a rosewood handle that has a slight warp. I take good care of my cues and store them properly. I have many customs and all others are still straight as new. I'm thinking the cue maker maybe should have cored the cue since the woods used are so dissimilar.

Anyway, my question is if the butt can be straightened, or maybe turned on a lathe to re-taper. It is a fairly thick diameter.

Any input from cue makers would be appreciated.
 
I have a cue butt that is a plain Jane zebra wood with a rosewood handle that has a slight warp. I take good care of my cues and store them properly. I have many customs and all others are still straight as new. I'm thinking the cue maker maybe should have cored the cue since the woods used are so dissimilar.

Anyway, my question is if the butt can be straightened, or maybe turned on a lathe to re-taper. It is a fairly thick diameter.

Any input from cue makers would be appreciated.
1. define slight warp?
2. how old is the cue?
3. what is the value of the cue? (this is a 2 part question) what did you pay for it? / What is it worth to you personally?
4. Even if it is "oversize" and then re-tapered to make it straight and round again chances are you could end up in the same situation down the road.
5. depending on "where" the warp may be would determine the path to repair it and return it to straight again.

It would be really hard to determine which way to go without holding the cue in hand.
Videos of the cue and certain techniques of rolling the cue may help, but for a repair person holding it in hand is best. (imo)

I would highly recommend searching for "competent" repair mechanic to help and have them personally look at your cue.
If they suggest just cutting the "warp" out with a re-taper, kindly ask for your cue back and do another search for a different repair person to seek another opinion.

Good luck on your quest.
 
If the warp in near the joint and you re-taper it you will likely end up having to cut on the shaft to match it up.

Most minor runout doesn't matter nearly as much as people think it does.

Have you actually confirmed that its warped in the butt? Could be a slight lift at the joint and they just need to be re-faced. Could be the wrap is proud giving the illusion that its warped.

Just throwing out all possibilities before you go down a crazy rabbit hole.
 
Does the cue have a wrap? If so the handle can be replaced getting most of the warp out unless the warp is n the forearm itself. If the warp is severe and in the forearm it is a lost cause.
 
1. define slight warp?
2. how old is the cue?
3. what is the value of the cue? (this is a 2 part question) what did you pay for it? / What is it worth to you personally?
4. Even if it is "oversize" and then re-tapered to make it straight and round again chances are you could end up in the same situation down the road.
5. depending on "where" the warp may be would determine the path to repair it and return it to straight again.

It would be really hard to determine which way to go without holding the cue in hand.
Videos of the cue and certain techniques of rolling the cue may help, but for a repair person holding it in hand is best. (imo)

I would highly recommend searching for "competent" repair mechanic to help and have them personally look at your cue.
If they suggest just cutting the "warp" out with a re-taper, kindly ask for your cue back and do another search for a different repair person to seek another opinion.

Good luck on your quest.
1. About a 1/16 inch leaves the table at the joint when rolled. Both shafts are dead straight when rolled separately.
2. The cue is a Spitz cue which I purchased from " New 2 You Cues" round about 2008. To me personally, I like the cue. Nice looking woods together. It is sixth from the left in the attached pic.
3. I think I paid $950 for it. Not sure what it is worth today.
4. My thinking too. That's why I am asking cue makers. Perhaps the wood is aged enough to have "settled down"?
5. I believe the warp is in the forearm.

Thank you all for your suggestions.

1783715236665.jpeg
 
1. About a 1/16 inch leaves the table at the joint when rolled. Both shafts are dead straight when rolled separately.
2. The cue is a Spitz cue which I purchased from " New 2 You Cues" round about 2008. To me personally, I like the cue. Nice looking woods together. It is sixth from the left in the attached pic.
3. I think I paid $950 for it. Not sure what it is worth today.
4. My thinking too. That's why I am asking cue makers. Perhaps the wood is aged enough to have "settled down"?
5. I believe the warp is in the forearm.

Thank you all for your suggestions.

View attachment 916370
Nice looking cue. It seems you have received some very good advice/responses.
Best regards
j2
 
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