Buying first cue, need advice.

F

frankhobby

New member
I'll be honest, I've been playing pool only long enough to love it. I don't know all the technical jargon and I'm not incredible, but I'm practicing. In fact, I'm starting up a billiards club at my school starting september. So I need to get a cue and get some serious practice in over the summer. What are some things I should look for in a cue when I'm purchasing? And my price range is low, because I don't want to get an expensive pool cue now while I'm learning and run the risk of ruining it so I'm looking for something under about $150. Any advice?
 
Production cues.
Players, Cuetec, Lucasi, Fury, McDermott, 5280, Scorpion, Schmelke, Action, Viking, Mezz, Dufferin and Meucci to name a few.

Your local pool hall should carry some of these. Shop around, ask to take a few shots with others cue to "get the feel" of it, before making a final decision.

But as everyone here will tell you, there is no best cue, everyone has different tastes when it comes to looks, playability and hit.

Also check out a few websites to see what is actually in your price range.

http://www.hawleys.com/main.htm
http://www.pooldawg.com/
http://www.seyberts.com/
 
You will get a lot of different types of responses to this thread. I will try and give you a few things to think about.

1. You say you don't want to get an expensive cue now and run the risk of ruining it. If you buy a quality cue and do your best to take care of it, there is little risk of ruining it. Don't throw it like a javelin, don't twirl it around like a movie star, keep it in a decent case when you are not using it, don't leave it in a vehicle, don't loan it to a friend, etc. I am not saying you need to raise your budget, I'm just suggesting you change your thinking about how a decent cue that is not mistreated should hold up.
2. You can buy a low end Viking or a low end Joss, or a host of other low end production cues used for around $100 to start with.
3. Find one that is straight, and follow number 1 above so it stays straight.
4. Around 19.5 ounces is a good weight for your first cue.
5. For a smaller investment, I recommend a dufferin, a schmelke, or a Players for around $60, but these would best be looked over and inspected in person.
6. Get one made of wood. Don't buy a cue with a plastic looking butt, don't buy a cue with a fiberglass coated shaft, etc.
7. If you can visually inspect a supply and hand pick, find one that feels good to you while in your hands, and has a good looking shaft. Good looking shaft means one with a decent number of grain lines that run as far as possible in the shaft without disappearing out the side of the shaft. Start at the joint end, find the center grain line, and see if you can trace it all the way to the tip (you might not find any like this, but pick one that has the grain lines that are parallel and run as far as possible). That shaft would have good potential for playing well.
8. If possible, see if you can make a few test hits with a few different production cues to see what sort of feels good to you so when you buy something online you are not terribly disappointed if it feels foreign.

Great to hear you love the game, and I hope the club you want to start at your school does well.

Kelly
 
Kelly_Guy said:
You will get a lot of different types of responses to this thread. I will try and give you a few things to think about.

1. You say you don't want to get an expensive cue now and run the risk of ruining it. If you buy a quality cue and do your best to take care of it, there is little risk of ruining it. Don't throw it like a javelin, don't twirl it around like a movie star, keep it in a decent case when you are not using it, don't leave it in a vehicle, don't loan it to a friend, etc. I am not saying you need to raise your budget, I'm just suggesting you change your thinking about how a decent cue that is not mistreated should hold up.
2. You can buy a low end Viking or a low end Joss, or a host of other low end production cues used for around $100 to start with.
3. Find one that is straight, and follow number 1 above so it stays straight.
4. Around 19.5 ounces is a good weight for your first cue.
5. For a smaller investment, I recommend a dufferin, a schmelke, or a Players for around $60, but these would best be looked over and inspected in person.
6. Get one made of wood. Don't buy a cue with a plastic looking butt, don't buy a cue with a fiberglass coated shaft, etc.
7. If you can visually inspect a supply and hand pick, find one that feels good to you while in your hands, and has a good looking shaft. Good looking shaft means one with a decent number of grain lines that run as far as possible in the shaft without disappearing out the side of the shaft. Start at the joint end, find the center grain line, and see if you can trace it all the way to the tip (you might not find any like this, but pick one that has the grain lines that are parallel and run as far as possible). That shaft would have good potential for playing well.
8. If possible, see if you can make a few test hits with a few different production cues to see what sort of feels good to you so when you buy something online you are not terribly disappointed if it feels foreign.

Great to hear you love the game, and I hope the club you want to start at your school does well.

Kelly
Click to expand...

Kelly repeated everything I said. He just used more words!:D
 
Kelly_Guy said:
2. You can buy a low end Viking or a low end Joss, or a host of other low end production cues used for around $100 to start with.
Click to expand...

I would suggest getting a new production cue over a used one, unless the savings is significant. My reasoning is the warranty may not be transferable.

I just picked up for a gift an entry level Viking, with a 1x2 case and a couple other accessories for about $151 shipped.

It isn't fancy, and calling the wood birds-eye maple might be a bit optimistic (shouldn't there be at least one "eye" on the cue? :rolleyes: ) on the part of the manufacturer, but it fits the needs and wants of the recipient very well.
 
You Can't Go Wrong With McDermott

They're low end cues play great and they have the best maintenace plan out there. You can send your cue back to them as much as twice a year. They have a 10 point inspection and replace/repair the problems. I sent mine in, had a couple small gaps in the wrap. They notonly cleaned and retipped it, they rewrapped it as well. Turn around time was about 2 weeks. I paid for shipping.
Mcdermotts have a great feel and a solid hit. They're well balanced and dead straight. I got a low end cpmpetitor with the case for $144 shipped

McCue Banger McCue
 
Thanks for the advice, I didn't even know about maintainence plans. But what's a new production cue? Are those just straight from the company and not second hand?

PS, what about this one? http://www.cuesight.com/fudl07.html

I like the way it looks, but will how can you tell if it's quality? And will you even be able to see the grain on it to tell the quality?
 
frankhobby said:
I'll be honest, I've been playing pool only long enough to love it. I don't know all the technical jargon and I'm not incredible, but I'm practicing. In fact, I'm starting up a billiards club at my school starting september. So I need to get a cue and get some serious practice in over the summer. What are some things I should look for in a cue when I'm purchasing? And my price range is low, because I don't want to get an expensive pool cue now while I'm learning and run the risk of ruining it so I'm looking for something under about $150. Any advice?
Click to expand...

I have these take your pick for $65. $15 s/h and insurance. $20 to $30 to add a case. Please PM if interested.
 

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First cue

Try to get a good sneeky pete by a custom maker. It will play better and hold its value. Infact it might just go up in value.
 
DelaWho??? said:
They're low end cues play great and they have the best maintenace plan out there. You can send your cue back to them as much as twice a year. They have a 10 point inspection and replace/repair the problems. I sent mine in, had a couple small gaps in the wrap. They notonly cleaned and retipped it, they rewrapped it as well. Turn around time was about 2 weeks. I paid for shipping.
Mcdermotts have a great feel and a solid hit. They're well balanced and dead straight. I got a low end cpmpetitor with the case for $144 shipped

McCue Banger McCue
Click to expand...

oh yeah you can go wrong with them too! they can be shady when it comes to some stuff! I have a M7QR-6 Voyager. Had it since 99. Sent it in a few weeks ago because the original shaft cracked around the joint and the rings on the butt were starting too swell! These retards would not fix it but offered me a reburbished cue for 200!!!! I told them to screw off and send it back and I will have a guy in the phillipines refinish it! So really not everything is covered that they say is!!
 
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