Buzzing noise from cue when hitting a ball

wilkamania

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Edit: you were right, it was the weightbolt. The allen key i used didn't have enough of a handle to torque the bolt so i thought it was stuck. I used the sale allen key used to put on bike cranks.
 
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Generally a bad ferrule will be more of a click than a buzz.

Is the cue a true full splice? If not, it could be a bad a-joint.

There is a chance that there are stacked weight bolts and the hidden one is loose.

Could be a joint problem, might need to have the butt faced.
 
Generally a bad ferrule will be more of a click than a buzz.

Is the cue a true full splice? If not, it could be a bad a-joint.

There is a chance that there are stacked weight bolts and the hidden one is loose.

Could be a joint problem, might need to have the butt faced.
Yup, it's a full splice. Schmelke stock.
 
Take out the wt bolt and see if anything is rattling around under it. Hit some ball balls without the bolt in it too. I doubt the joint pin is loose.
 
some buzzes are easy to fix..... loose weight bolt... but I made a cue that had a buzz........... took out the weight bolt....... still buzzed........ changed the pin.... still buzzed.............. core drilled the whole length of the butt and glued in a 3/8 dowel................... changed the shatf............ still buzzed.......................... gave it to my wife for a break cue................. LOL
 
There are many things than can cause a buzz;

Loose ferrule
Loose joint collar or butt cap
Loose inlay
Anulus gap area in a cored section
A Joint buzz
Loose weight bolt
A wood crack

Everyone of these except the crack Can be completely avoided by the cuemaker during construction.
 
There are many things than can cause a buzz;

Loose ferrule
Loose joint collar or butt cap
Loose inlay
Anulus gap area in a cored section
A Joint buzz
Loose weight bolt
A wood crack

Everyone of these except the crack Can be completely avoided by the cuemaker during construction.
In some cases, the crack can be avoided too. Lol
 
Just finishing a jump break that had a Buzz.
Culprit:
The joint screw combo at the jump section.
Was it worth repairing?
Define what's worth it to someone who had already invested any amount of money.
List the possibilities of the problem and go from there!
 

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Michael, What was the aspect of the joint screw that caused the buzzing?
The owner.
Said he believed it was from the stainless joint area. Lmao
I like humor.
But the jump section hardware like many Uni Loc knock offs, lack proper fit. So even though it worked well, if you tapped it on the side, the metal parts vibrated.
He wound up buying another jump break and gave this to me. I changed it over to the ball screw. I have some all threaded ones. I like those.
And seeing it was free, I threw a leather wrap on it.
 

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That makes sense now. With too much thread engagement, and being too loose can cause issues too. In reality the threads only need to be 1.5 diameters long if they are metal and a max of 2 diameters long if they are alloy. I made my early cues with the threads too neat a fit and they needed to be clean. Any chalk dust and they would bind up. So I loosened up the threads by using commercial threaded inserts, that had more clearance than the screw cut ones I was making. When I did my 1st jump shaft, I had a long piece of all thread rod and that did buzz. I fixed it by leaving the length in place, but took it down to the root diameter of the rolled thread and left only 10mm of thread engagement on the 5/16-18 thread doing the work. The buzz went away. The long length was to get the balance I wanted. The thread crests missing did not make that much of a difference to the balance. Funny things happen inside cue shafts and handles. Especially with a hard tip , what is used on Jump cues.
 
It could have been the glue holding the hardware on my repair too. It took very little heat to remove them. The faster the glue dries, the less it bonds.
Jmo
 
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