What are the common causes of buzzing in the A joint of a cue, and what is the most reliable prevention or cure?
Bzzzz, Bzzzz
- Thread starter Cheez Dawg
- Start date
The most reliable prevention I've heard of is a "buzz ring". Cuebuilders will install a phenolic ring between the forearm and handle. The failure occurs because you have the end grains of the forearm and handle meeting up and gluing these (2) end grains does not create a good bond. By introducing this buzz ring, this seems to reduce the chances of failure. Others may be able to expound on the theory, but this is what I've read/seen.
Buzz At A Joint
My cure for buzzing at the "A" joint is to eliminate it by using a full length core with a stop ring machined where the "A" joint would of been in a traditional cue.
Refer to the pic and I will explain. The stop ring is 1/4" wide and 7/8" in diameter. It fits up into a pocket bored into the forearm and is held in place by a threaded joint cap and glue. The handle, butt sleeve and trim rings are then slid up to the stop ring and glued in place and held by a threaded butt cap. No buzz, no weak "A" joint. There are other benefits to this type of cue joinery.
Cheez Dawg said:
My cure for buzzing at the "A" joint is to eliminate it by using a full length core with a stop ring machined where the "A" joint would of been in a traditional cue.
Refer to the pic and I will explain. The stop ring is 1/4" wide and 7/8" in diameter. It fits up into a pocket bored into the forearm and is held in place by a threaded joint cap and glue. The handle, butt sleeve and trim rings are then slid up to the stop ring and glued in place and held by a threaded butt cap. No buzz, no weak "A" joint. There are other benefits to this type of cue joinery.
I read back in the 80's, that Burtan Spain discovered end grains absorb whatever glue is applied to them & that the ends of two such end grains rubbing together, cause a buzz. Having been a sign painter for many years I began to use one of their tricks. I coat ALL end grain with Elmers white glue. After it is dry the epoxy will not penatrate the end grain, but will adhear to any other surface. I've glued end grains together & when cured, I wacked against a steel post. The wood split, but not at the joint...JER
Thanks for the advice. I was hoping it would be something simple!!:thumbup: :thumbup: