Can a Uni-lock joint be changed?

O

Otto Floto

Banned
Newcomer here to this board.

Recently I bought through the Internet a Predator Willie Hoppe cue with a leather wrap and a Uni-lock joint. The cue was advertised as a limited edition with only 500 made.

I fell for this offer, but I've come to dislike the cue because of the Uni-lock joint. I don't trust it to stay secure and find myself constantly twisting the cue to tighten the joint (which obviously doesn't replicate the original cue). The uncertainty of the connection distracts me from my game. (The tip, in case that matters, is a Moori medium.

Despite always checking the joint, sometimes I get a hit that clangs, and it vibrates right to my elbow. Disgusting feeling, by the way.

I bought the cue for sentimental reasons, but it was embossed with my name on its butt and is probably is worth less money because of it. Or maybe it's worth squat, because I don't know beans about cues.

Now I never play with it, preferring my Cue-tech R-360 (which is apparently good enough for Shane and Allison).

Anyway, I'm sitting on a $600 cue and case that I never use.

Suggestions?
 
Otto Floto said:
Newcomer here to this board.

Recently I bought through the Internet a Predator Willie Hoppe cue with a leather wrap and a Uni-lock joint. The cue was advertised as a limited edition with only 500 made.

I fell for this offer, but I've come to dislike the cue because of the Uni-lock joint. I don't trust it to stay secure and find myself constantly twisting the cue to tighten the joint (which obviously doesn't replicate the original cue). The uncertainty of the connection distracts me from my game. (The tip, in case that matters, is a Moori medium.

Despite always checking the joint, sometimes I get a hit that clangs, and it vibrates right to my elbow. Disgusting feeling, by the way.

I bought the cue for sentimental reasons, but it was embossed with my name on its butt and is probably is worth less money because of it. Or maybe it's worth squat, because I don't know beans about cues.

Now I never play with it, preferring my Cue-tech R-360 (which is apparently good enough for Shane and Allison).

Anyway, I'm sitting on a $600 cue and case that I never use.

Suggestions?
Click to expand...

You can have Kevin Varney change the joint, if he's busy it might take awhile. But rest asured he does very good work. He did a Predator SP for me awhile back. And it turned out very nicely.

Speaking of the R360, what about it do you prefer over the Predator?
Does it give you a decent firm or solid hit? Or do you find it similar to a soft hit like a OB1?

I have been thinking of getting one, but I know if might get some harrassment from my peers...they are so inexpensive so I might just grab one.
 
instroke2 said:
Speaking of the R360, what about it do you prefer over the Predator?
Does it give you a decent firm or solid hit? Or do you find it similar to a soft hit like a OB1?

I have been thinking of getting one, but I know if might get some harrassment from my peers...they are so inexpensive so I might just grab one.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. Solid hit, in my opinion. Don't know about the OB1.

Going back to the original question, how much should I be prepared to spend for a joint replacement? Can I get the name off the butt?
 
Otto Floto said:
Thanks for the advice. Solid hit, in my opinion. Don't know about the OB1.

Going back to the original question, how much should I be prepared to spend for a joint replacement? Can I get the name off the butt?
Click to expand...

Send Kevin Varney here a pm, he's pretty reasonable with his pricing.
Also be sure to ask what joint pins he recomends for your cue..?
 
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