Can anyone identify this old cue?

S

SalientBeing

Registered
Trying to figure this one out.
The wrap was removed when I got it. The shaft is not original.

It's a full splice cue.
4 veneers looks like violet(outer) then green, then an orange, then a natural maple color.

I would guess the buttcap is delrin. 12 mother of pearl dots on the butt sleeve.

TINY rubber bumper centered in the base. I haven't seen that one before.

Thanks for any help.

Pics

IMG_5057.jpg




IMG_5062.jpg




IMG_5063.jpg




IMG_5064.jpg
 
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any pictures of the joint end of the shaft ?,,,what I see looks like something from the Adam, Helmstetter, Orchid cue line
 
Jack Flanagan said:
any pictures of the joint end of the shaft ?,,,what I see looks like something from the Adam, Helmstetter, Orchid cue line
Click to expand...


The shaft doesn't match the butt at all. Just black phenolic.
 
Hi,

Looks like a great project cue. Selling it? If so, what would you take for it?

Thanks!

Steve
 
SalientBeing said:
Trying to figure this one out.
The wrap was removed when I got it. The shaft is not original.

It's a full splice cue.
4 veneers looks like violet(outer) then green, then an orange, then a natural maple color.

I would guess the buttcap is delrin. 12 mother of pearl dots on the butt sleeve.

TINY rubber bumper centered in the base. I haven't seen that one before.

Thanks for any help.

Pics

IMG_5057.jpg




IMG_5062.jpg




IMG_5063.jpg




IMG_5064.jpg
Click to expand...

Palmer model F, second catalog.

Joe
 
classiccues said:
Palmer model F, second catalog.

Joe
Click to expand...


It really does look like the model F. The threads are 5/16-18 as well. From the colors of the veneers I wonder if it was a titleist blank to start.
 
The points in the forearm arent sharp enough to be a Titlist blank. Joe, did Palmer make their own blanks, or did they have a source? Is this model considered a production cue? I'm not too fimiliar with Palmer cues. Just looking for some info.

Thanks

Nice cue...
 
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SalientBeing said:
It really does look like the model F. The threads are 5/16-18 as well. From the colors of the veneers I wonder if it was a titleist blank to start.
Click to expand...

This is a titlist blank. The great thing you can see is the vibrant colors where the wrap was. In the hands of a professional, all the veneers can be bought back to the sharp colors they once were.

Joe
 
Poolschool said:
The points in the forearm arent sharp enough to be a Titlist blank. Joe, did Palmer make their own blanks, or did they have a source? Is this model considered a production cue? I'm not too fimiliar with Palmer cues. Just looking for some info.

Thanks

Nice cue...
Click to expand...

The cue is definately a titlist blank. The only blanks I am sure they made were the no point cues. Cues with points I am pretty sure were all outsourced. Are they production? Yes, but they are the first company considered "custom" production. Its a shame older Vikings or even Mali's don't have the following that Palmer has.

Joe
 
Poolschool said:
So I guess when the cue is turned down it effects the points?
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The veneers are faded badly, so when you photograph them they look blunt. The only way I could tell it was a Titlist was from the veneer colors under the wrap.

The way you can tell the points are super sharp is the second photo from the bottom - look closely and you can see the end of the point. The other way is look at the inside points under the wrap - very sharp. When the cue is restored properly, the points will be nice and sharp and the original colors hopefully will return. The handle section is rosewood. It's a standard Titlist full splice circa about 1970.

Chris
 
TATE said:
The veneers are faded badly, so when you photograph them they look blunt. The only way I could tell it was a Titlist was from the veneer colors under the wrap.

The way you can tell the points are super sharp is the second photo from the bottom - look closely and you can see the end of the point. The other way is look at the inside points under the wrap - very sharp. When the cue is restored properly, the points will be nice and sharp and the original colors hopefully will return. The handle section is rosewood. It's a standard Titlist full splice circa about 1970.

Chris
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Using a Jewelers loupe and a machinist ruler the distance from the tips of the points to the black ring at the joint is

Point
1.....87mm
2.....87mm
3.....90mm
4.....89mm

I was amazed at how close they were. The thing is old and you can feel the points but it isn't loose or anything. There wasn't a buzz when I hit with it. I wish it had the original shaft with it.

For resto would a repair person take a cutting pass on it? I couldn't imagine that just sanding would get down to where the color is at in the veneers.
 
With out actually seeing it, I would say no about taken a pass. That is not and oversized Brunswick butt. Taken a pass with a cutter would ruin it. Usually the colors will come out with sanding.
 
SalientBeing said:
Using a Jewelers loupe and a machinist ruler the distance from the tips of the points to the black ring at the joint is

Point
1.....87mm
2.....87mm
3.....90mm
4.....89mm

I was amazed at how close they were. The thing is old and you can feel the points but it isn't loose or anything. There wasn't a buzz when I hit with it. I wish it had the original shaft with it.

For resto would a repair person take a cutting pass on it? I couldn't imagine that just sanding would get down to where the color is at in the veneers.
Click to expand...

That's nice when you can find a Titlist forearm that is that even. This is about the time when the Titlists went to pot! Plus sometimes Palmer did a terrible job at centering up their lathes.

I would say send it to Jim Buss or Proficient. They'll spin it and sand it slowly. It's better to have the veneers a little faded than risk going too deep and ruining them. Also, it helps if the forearm is not warped. I don't think Proficient will do the two tone wrap (unless you beg) but that would be the ideal. If you can't get two tone, I suggest just smooth black leather - it would look fantastic on this cue. Scott does a beautiful job on leather wraps for $95. Jim Buss might have the dacron or a reasonable facsimile for all I know if you want to keep it was original as possible.

I know Proficient has the gray collar material to make you up a shaft. I know he can come very close. I think he charges $150 for the shaft. You want a cue maker who has made Palmer shafts and Scott has made a lot. He made a couple for me (although I supplied the original collars). I can send him or you photo's of the correct shaft for this cue, althought Scott already knows how it's supposed to be. The shaft insert looks a little different from year to year.He recently made me a buttcap from some photos and specs I sent him and it came out 100% perfect down to an exact match on 40 year old material.

This is a nice project cue. if you decide to sell it, please remember me.

Chris
 
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SalientBeing said:
Using a Jewelers loupe and a machinist ruler the distance from the tips of the points to the black ring at the joint is

Point
1.....87mm
2.....87mm
3.....90mm
4.....89mm

I was amazed at how close they were. The thing is old and you can feel the points but it isn't loose or anything. There wasn't a buzz when I hit with it. I wish it had the original shaft with it.

For resto would a repair person take a cutting pass on it? I couldn't imagine that just sanding would get down to where the color is at in the veneers.
Click to expand...

By the way, these usually came without a rubber butt plug plug, but they would put one in if you want. A Southwest plug fits it perfectly and it's very similar to the ones they supplied if a customer wanted one.

Chris
 
Poolschool said:
The points in the forearm arent sharp enough to be a Titlist blank. Joe, did Palmer make their own blanks, or did they have a source? Is this model considered a production cue? I'm not too fimiliar with Palmer cues. Just looking for some info.

Thanks

Nice cue...
Click to expand...

when i talked to pete he said they made their own except for the titlist and gus's. you always hear spain but pete said no?
 
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