smiling_Hans
Well-known member
Bingo.Do explain why carbon is only for advanced players please. I thought the only difference with carbon was less squirt.
Squirt is something a less experience player would think is a soda.
Bingo.Do explain why carbon is only for advanced players please. I thought the only difference with carbon was less squirt.
Cue makers will always sell you on the 13mm. It's industry standards.I used to play with a 12mm long pro taper turned down maple shaft on my mcdermott cues (matching shaft). I have now settled on 12.5mm long pro taper maple original shafts with my two custom playing cues (both have a matching 13mm shaft also as both came with two shafts). My break maple shaft is 13mm. Both custom cue makers recommended not turning down below 12.5mm and even trying to stay closer to 13mm for shaft rigidness and averaging out the precision needed to hit the shot as intended but I like the 12.5mm size the best for my eye, stroke feel and bridge.
I know what you mean. Lately I have found myself, if I remember, scrolling back from the last page a bit to see if its a current thread.Just messin with ya. I am kinda curious how people find these old threads.
"Normal cue"?Learn how to play with a normal cue first. You will naturally progress to:
House cue
Budget cue
Custom cue
Professional cue; Mezz, Predator or Cuetec
anything over $2,000............"Normal cue"?
Tip precision is EXTREMELY import in three-cushion, and most carom games.
Tip precision also important in pool, but the size of the pockets and large "safe" landing areas of the cue ball mask the importance. You can get away with a larger statistical deviation in tip precision on lesser tables, which becomes very apparent when you switch to a more difficult pool table.
A larger tip may give you the impression of less tip deviation, but it is just a visual illusion because the diameter to ball size ratio is larger.
I like smaller tip diameters only because it is more visually obvious.
But regardless of tip diameter, you still need to learn the same precision consistency for any equipment you use.
Absolutely.It's a matter of feel.
Personally I use thicker shafts (13mm+) because I have larger than normal hands/fingers. Anything smaller feels like I'm shooting with a pencil.
As long as I'm wearing my pool thong, nothing else mattersJust put on your pool shoes and you will be ok
More 'advanced' in time spent playing without progress maybe... Basically those who've reached a plateau and need something expensive with a few tech words to talk about once or twice a year (the other end of the spectrum could also apply - newbies wanting a 'get rich quick scheme' wanting to sound proficient, who think tech mumbo jumbo means they're going to play better).Do explain why carbon is only for advanced players please. I thought the only difference with carbon was less squirt.
In that case a carbon shaft should have them playing better not worse because they were not compensating for squirt in the first place.Bingo.
Squirt is something a less experience player would think is a soda.
To put it in perspective or an example of carbon and LD shafts being advantageous to more advanced players.
Yes, you can tell the difference or I can.
A guy can tell the difference between driving a Honda and a Ferrari. Huge difference.
Now can you tell the difference between two Ferraris? This is where an experienced/advanced driver (race car driver) can tell the difference between .5 of a second to .25 of a second. To us we can't tell the difference.
To the inexperienced player can't tell the difference and using a carbon shafts won't help their game. To a more advanced player that miniscule difference is huge. I'm stuck somewhere in between. I quit playing competitively and only used house cues for the last 5 years because I leave my cues at home.
Anyways, I bought a Mezz and started pocketing balls with ease. Better than ever. Controlling the ball on long shots down the table is so easy now. Effortless. People say its me and my skill and that's flattering but its the cue.
I use to aim and compensate for deflection. No more. Which helps me pocket the ball at a high rate and get shape.
More 'advanced' in time spent playing without progress maybe... Basically those who've reached a plateau and need something expensive with a few tech words to talk about once or twice a year (the other end of the spectrum could also apply - newbies wanting a 'get rich quick scheme' wanting to sound proficient, who think tech mumbo jumbo means they're going to play better).
Good players play well with whatever 'feels' right to them. That 'feel' comes from all manner of subjective reasonings. Whether it's what you observed your favorite player using, what someone told you was premium, what you borrowed and played well with one time, something of an amendment of familiar equipment used in other cue sports, what you think looks good etc etc. The list is quite literally malleable, endless and entirely subjective.
Everything is different. Everything can work. There is no 'best' - there is only you, what works for you and what you think is right for the job.
76% of statistics are made up by the author!90% of the time you change equipment the result is all in your head.