The most important part of your question is missing.elbow grease/tools have failed so far
as has a solder gun (tho maybe I didn't let it get hot enough?)
if the weight bolt is epoxied (only guessing it is)
is there any way to grab it out, without destroying the cue?
thanks for any help-
This has always been questionable.Please, everyone forgive me for this question if there’s a reason to epoxy a weight bolt - why in the world would you epoxy something than was made to remove for any and all changes in cue weight?
Thanks for clarifying; as always you make a lot of sense with your answers.This has always been questionable.
It's a real pain in the ass, especially with the amount of Cue flipping today.
The plain and simple truth is,
The Cue makers who epoxy them and or cover them with epoxy just don't want people to alter the weight of the Butt unless you request them to do it.
The other part for epoxying and sealing it, the weight bolt is more than a weight bolt. It's part of the Butts construction method along with a tenon to hold the Butt bottom on.
NOW, more than ever because of the amount of repair men and or so called repair men. It is good to know what your dealing with before it's attempted.
You size the weight bolt to match what your design specs are. Once it's correct you shouldn't even need to change the bolt, hence the epoxy. Tuning the cue to the player is typically only done the one time.
what Sheldon said sounds good , let me ask.... anyone think of Heating or Chilling the base of the butt where the screw lye'sI like to put a T-handled allen wrench into my bench vice, then put the cue on it and twist the #$%& out of it with both hands. If that fails, you're probably better off just finding another cheap cue.
may i suggest...... go with the rust dissolver , get that bullshit bolt out of thereI don't see any signs of epoxy but it could have been put into the hole before the bolt. But that rust could for sure be the problem. I'd be careful with WD-40 or PB Blaster or any liquids as it will make the wood swell which could add to the problem.
If it were my cue I'd try an impact wrench with the air dialed down a bunch. This is a two man job, one on the impact wrench and one holding the cue. Govern the aggressiveness by how much pressure you hold the cue with your hands. Then you can increase the aggressiveness by either increasing the air pressure or not letting it slip in your grip as much. Sometimes the hammering motion will break it loose much better than constant pressure. Just be sure to start out slow and work up, you'll be able to see any problems developing early that way.
Be sure to keep good pressure in the hex bit, you don't want to round it out.
Only after trying this would I resort to some kind of anti rust liquid and then hit it again with the impact wrench. Where there's a will there's a way.
This is all assuming that there's no epoxy in there, if there is and you hit it hard enough you will still get it out but the threads will probably come with it! Then it would need to be drilled/bored and retapped larger if you wanted to add adjustable weight in the future.
Just thought I'd add.... I would only do this to my own cue (if I absolutely couldn't live with the weight) or a crap cue. I would never attempt this on any decent cue, but then again I'd probably never have to.