Well i learned some things and see some possible options as far as wood-turning/cue-making. Thanks for that!
On the topic drift re: cutting materials and edge tools.....
There area now some new grades of steel that is a hss with carbides in it.
All tool steel has carbides in it. Managing them is the crux of tool making. Carbides make the tool brittle, but contribute to longer wear. So heat treating is fundamentally a method of trying to make them very small, and put them in a distribution/% that allows the edge to still be tough enough. I use CPM M4 for some of the woodworking tools i make because the "powdered metallurgy" process makes for fine grains and a tougher edge at the same hardness. Modified by the specific range of hardening and tempering temperatures. (You can harden for max hardness, or give up a smidgeon/ 2 points Rc of absolute hardness and maximize toughness, or somewhere in between).
The idea in an edge tool is that you want enough hardness (hardness is a proxy for tensile strength) so the edge does not fold/bend. But not so much that it is chippy when used in the intended substrate. Carbides add to wear resistance, which is not directly related to hardness; but both tend to make the edge more brittle.
I love commercially made CPM M4 tool bits for my planer when cutting steel. Carbide still can't give anywhere close to the same finish or step over, and often fails by chipping long before the HSS dulls. I do use carbide on harder steels and weldments when the step-over (feed) is small. But gosh, what a time waster (the small steps/higher HP drain of carbide)
OK. back to cues.
:grin-square:
smt