Carbide tube?

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I would like to start making some sets of better sanding mandrels, and since carbide seems to be the best suited, I would like to make a set that's atleast sleeved with It. Wondering If there are any suppliers that sell carbide in tube form, and what sizes It comes in? Or possibly some carbide bushings of some sort, that are aready cut to a suitable lenth.

Also open to any other suggestions for making them. I have them in stainless, but It sands away alot faster then carbide does, therefore don't expect they would last long.

Also this is off topic, but any suggestions on centering an offcenter both up and down perfectly the first time when inlaying? I have just been checking the space between the endmill and sides of My inlay pockets till they are the same depth to fine tune It, but wondering if there is an easier, more sure fire way?

Thanks, Greg C
 
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Cue Crazy said:
Also open to any other suggestions for making them. I have them in stainless, but It sands away alot faster then carbide does, therefore don't expect they would last long.
That stuff is very hard, you need special grinding to get the right OD. You may want to give Blud a call, I think he can make them for you.

Tracy
 
Cue Crazy said:
I would like to start making some sets of better sanding mandrels, and since carbide seems to be the best suited, I would like to make a set that's atleast sleeved with It. Wondering If there are any suppliers that sell carbide in tube form, and what sizes It comes in? Or possibly some carbide bushings of some sort, that are aready cut to a suitable lenth.

Also open to any other suggestions for making them. I have them in stainless, but It sands away alot faster then carbide does, therefore don't expect they would last long.

Also this is off topic, but any suggestions on centering an offcenter both up and down perfectly the first time when inlaying? I have just been checking the space between the endmill and sides of My inlay pockets till they are the same depth to fine tune It, but wondering if there is an easier, more sure fire way?

Thanks, Greg C
For making sure an offest center is perfectly up or down here is one way to do it. Get a magnetic dial indicator and move it across the none offsetting part of the center until you find the highest point. That will let you know the indicator is in the middle of the center. Now move your tailstock back slightly to where the indicator touches the offset part of the center. Now rotate the center until you find the lowest or highest reading and lock the tailstock chuck. For my CNC machine I set up two tailstocks with one center up and one down so I don't have to waste anytime when changing. I just slide the other tailstock on.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
RSB-Refugee said:
That stuff is very hard, you need special grinding to get the right OD. You may want to give Blud a call, I think he can make them for you.

Tracy


Thanks for the reply Tracy,

I do want to have a solid carbide set made before too long when I have the extra funds, but due to the hardness of the material they are costly to me at the moment. I can make some of My own mandrels, but as you mentioned carbide is some tough stuff, so I was wondering if anyone had sleeved a standard type mandrel with carbide tube cutoffs just to have something to get by with, or some kind of bushing for another use that was around the same diameter as a joint. Seems like i saw a picture somewhere that looked like this may have been done on a set of mandrels, but don't remember where I saw them, or know where I would get the cutoffs/bushings to try It.

Thanks Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
Thanks for the reply Tracy,

I do want to have a solid carbide set made before too long when I have the extra funds, but due to the hardness of the material they are costly to me at the moment. I can make some of My own mandrels, but as you mentioned carbide is some tough stuff, so I was wondering if anyone had sleeved a standard type mandrel with carbide tube cutoffs just to have something to get by with, or some kind of bushing for another use that was around the same diameter as a joint. Seems like i saw a picture somewhere that looked like this may have been done on a set of mandrels, but don't remember where I saw them, or know where I would get the cutoffs/bushings to try It.

Thanks Greg
http://yillik.com/
Greg get a hold of those people.
I'm trying to get a quote on .870 OD with .625" ID and .250" long.
I'll just have them reground to around .840-
850 after the mandrels are done.
They are sending me a quote this week for four pieces.
 
cueman said:
For making sure an offest center is perfectly up or down here is one way to do it. Get a magnetic dial indicator and move it across the none offsetting part of the center until you find the highest point. That will let you know the indicator is in the middle of the center. Now move your tailstock back slightly to where the indicator touches the offset part of the center. Now rotate the center until you find the lowest or highest reading and lock the tailstock chuck. For my CNC machine I set up two tailstocks with one center up and one down so I don't have to waste anytime when changing. I just slide the other tailstock on.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com



Thanks Chris, Ofcoarse, If that one had been a cotton mouth, My goose would have been cooked, would'nt it. :D I think I can make a bracket that uses the t-slotsl on the tailstock to mount My indicator. I made one for the cross slide that uses a long t-nut.I did end up tuning the offset in good by eye after I wrote the thread, but not the best method, takes a while, and not very precise. it is cutting a nice, even pocket now though.

I like Your fixed 2 tailstock suggestion. I think that's how I am gonna setup the standalone unit. Worth the price of another tailstock and center, for the quick change option.

Thanks again should make things alot easier.
Greg
 
I second Yillik.
They have the lowest prices of anybody that i've been quoted by.
I've ground carbide before, it's not really all that hard. Just take your time and use the right equipment.
I have my choice of either a 1/2 HP or a 1/4 HP dumore, and an wide array of grinding stones.
And if i really want to grind i'll use a 40K rpm Precise grinder.
 
JoeyInCali said:
http://yillik.com/
Greg get a hold of those people.
I'm trying to get a quote on .870 OD with .625" ID and .250" long.
I'll just have them reground to around .840-
850 after the mandrels are done.
They are sending me a quote this week for four pieces.



That's it, Thanks Joey, John.

So Your looking at the press fit headless? that might be the way to go depending on the quote. Probably would be better reground after pressing them to a mandrel. wonder what they would charge for that? seems the bushing is a pretty stock type thing for them. I guess the regrind is the trick. Please Pm Me if you hear anything on them, I am curious around what they come up with. All I need for a mandrel set is straight shanks, so nothing special as far as shank type. are you turning them, and pressing the carbide on yourself, or getting that quoted also? I have a buddy that's milled me some more complicated stuff before, but not sure what kind of grinding capiblities he has, and would rather not bother him with it anyway. Last time I talked to him he had just recovered after having heart problems. I could probably do them from brass, good tooling grade alloy, or posibly even stainless If I had no choice, but there's no way I am going to grind any carbide with what I have now. no tool post grinder. Definatly looks like you guys have had the same idea as me. thanks for the insite and link.

Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
Thanks for the reply Tracy,

(skipped) so I was wondering if anyone had sleeved a standard type mandrel with carbide tube cutoffs just to have something to get by with, or some kind of bushing for another use that was around the same diameter as a joint. Seems like i saw a picture somewhere that looked like this may have been done on a set of mandrels, but don't remember where I saw them, or know where I would get the cutoffs/bushings to try It.

Thanks Greg

That's pretty much what I did, except I made the arbor bodies, too. Press the bushings onto the arbors, grind the carbide faces, then grind the male & female arbors as an assembly.

Maybe these are the pics you recall seeing?

http://www.dzcues.com/images/sanding arbor.jpg

http://www.dzcues.com/images/sanding arbor2.jpg
 
dzcues said:
That's pretty much what I did, except I made the arbor bodies, too. Press the bushings onto the arbors, grind the carbide faces, then grind the male & female arbors as an assembly.

Maybe these are the pics you recall seeing?

http://www.dzcues.com/images/sanding arbor.jpg

http://www.dzcues.com/images/sanding arbor2.jpg



That looks just like what I remember seeing, right down to the set screws for the arbor, so I think that is where I saw them. Thanks for posting them on your site. I thought of it a while back, and was doing searches for the mandrels to see what I could find. I believe yours were one of the only sets to come up in the search.Any suggestions or advice would be apprietiated. I would be good with those, if I can find someone to regrind for me after I press fit them. I have no idea what the carbide bushings sell for though. Thanks Again, Greg
 
Michael Webb said:
I forgot to add this into the pm I sent, How many would you like and how much would you like to pay.


Well, I could probably narrow It down to 2 sets just to get by with for a while, but eventually would like to atleast have the 3 standard sizes and maybe 2 of the other. Price, I am willing to pay their worth, just alittle tight right now with all My cash flow going out lately so may just get 2 sets at first. Story of My life :D I could probably swing what I needed to for all, but like I mentioned what ever I could save for now, and get by with for a while would be great. Even something just sleeved with straight shank would work, If faced and reground. Drop Me a PM if you got something in mind Mike, I am all ears. I am in need of these, just a question of what My best options are. I am alittle of the DIY type as You know, so I am always checking all the angles, and doing the homework. Just so happens the grinding is out of My capibility at the time, and carbide work costs, so I will have to pay someone to to it, just a question as to how to make It easier on them, to save on setup.

Thanks, Greg
 
How about, I'll send you two sleeves to get you started. You build your mandrells and have them ground there. I'm sure their's a grind shop some where around you. You can pay me for them whenever. If you never get caught up, don't worry about it. If you do get caught up, that's okay to.
 
Michael Webb said:
How about, I'll send you two sleeves to get you started. You build your mandrells and have them ground there. I'm sure their's a grind shop some where around you. You can pay me for them whenever. If you never get caught up, don't worry about it. If you do get caught up, that's okay to.


Mike, please PM me with a price for a couple of the sleeves. I had a couple of sets made, but would like to try to grind an additional one myself for a different pin.

Sherm
 
Cue Crazy said:
Well, I could probably narrow It down to 2 sets just to get by with for a while, but eventually would like to atleast have the 3 standard sizes and maybe 2 of the other. Price, I am willing to pay their worth, just alittle tight right now with all My cash flow going out lately so may just get 2 sets at first. Story of My life :D I could probably swing what I needed to for all, but like I mentioned what ever I could save for now, and get by with for a while would be great. Even something just sleeved with straight shank would work, If faced and reground. Drop Me a PM if you got something in mind Mike, I am all ears. I am in need of these, just a question of what My best options are. I am alittle of the DIY type as You know, so I am always checking all the angles, and doing the homework. Just so happens the grinding is out of My capibility at the time, and carbide work costs, so I will have to pay someone to to it, just a question as to how to make It easier on them, to save on setup.

Thanks, Greg

You lucky dog... :D
 
Michael Webb said:
How about, I'll send you two sleeves to get you started. You build your mandrells and have them ground there. I'm sure their's a grind shop some where around you. You can pay me for them whenever. If you never get caught up, don't worry about it. If you do get caught up, that's okay to.


Thanks Mike,
Your good people. Very kind offer :) . It will give me chance to try it Out. Probably dig someone up around here to grind them If I talk around. I do know a couple of machinists that shoot pool, and one that likes to watch us shoot. They're always interesting in what I am doing, or working on, so naturally we get into lathe talk sometimes, and one of them has done some good work for me before. just depends on if one of them is set up for grinding. We use to have a machine shop down the road that I had surface flywheels for Me years ago, but they have moved, I can probably find them somewhere else now If worse comes to worse. seems as if they did some grinding. I'll Pm you about the sleeves, Should'nt be a problem paying for them, unless I need to take a morgage out or something :D .

Thanks Again, I do apprietiete It.

Greg
 
Gas Nitride

I made some about a year ago out of tool steel. Took them to work and had them gas nitride hardened. Hardness is about 70 HRC.

Granted, carbide would be the hot set up. But mine are still the same size as when I started using them and they cost next to nothing, therfore I'm able to have sets in three sizes.

Tom
 
hadjcues said:
You lucky dog... :D


:p Never thought a piece of carbide would make me so happy Hadj, sure will be nice :D Mikes definatly a good guy in My book, won't forget him for this one, because I am burned out on dressing the joints the way I have to now. This will make things alot easier.
 
Cue Crazy said:
:p Never thought a piece of carbide would make me so happy Hadj, sure will be nice :D Mikes definatly a good guy in My book, won't forget him for this one, because I am burned out on dressing the joints the way I have to now. This will make things alot easier.

Good for you bud... Haven'tfound the need yet for carbide, my hard steel's still holding up pretty well. I guess when you do a ton of repairs it's necessary... that's why I keep myself in seclusion in my cue laboratory :D :D :D

Still tryin' to figure out how to make shaft turning a little more fun... :D :confused: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
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