CARBON BREAK SHAFTS?

MikeLeClair said:
I had the same issue with my wooden break cue. Full of little knicks, drove me nuts. So I went with the JFlowers BRKR Carbon Fiber break cue. I wasn't sure if I would like carbon fiber or not and didn't want to spend too much on it just in case. Well I'm still using it and I love it. Can't beat $334US for a full carbon fiber break cue that is also very good quality. https://jflowerscues.com/product-category/jflowers-cues/break-cue/break-cues/
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I tried a JFlowers break cue also, very good breaking cue.
 
RDeca said:
It took me a good 3 weeks to get consistent when switching from a joss stock 13.25 with a extra hard leather tip to the mezz. I did have to change my break stroke . ....Mostly tip contact with cueball and follow throu angle. Also the shorty length changed my backswing. But doing all
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BigBoof said:
I use a Pechaur carbon break shaft. It took me a while to prefer it to my Pechaur Black Ice (impregnated maple) but I do now.


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What's the deal with the black ice? Does the weight help or is it awkward
 
RDeca said:
what's the best dedicated carbon break shaft In your guys opinion?

My wood break shaft (mezz DI 2 on the short butt) while I love the way it breaks,
seems to always pickup nicks (valley table related I think) it's like every other month I pick the thing up and notice some new dings or rash. (Usually i break about a 10 -12 inches over from the corner i rest my elbow basically in/on the pocket. If breaks not pocketing i switch to a rail 2nd and 3rd ball break every once in a while.( wich I think is where the rash and dings get picked up)

I dont jump much so I pretty much just use it for when I break.
I dont want to change my break. I've gotten it to where I'm very consistent with my control and pocket one or two balls 65 percent I'd say. But sometimes I can get grooving and always make balls.
Anyways

My only experience is with Jacobys BLAK offering and I didn't care for it. It Seemed to not break as well for me (to be honest it felt like junk) would have liked to try its shaft on my butt .. .but the threads are radial. (And I felt like the butt was very cheaply made.)

You cannot get just a mezz carbon break shaft anywhere. U have to pay 920 for the whole cue wich is crazy money. (I could get it Then sell just the new but with my old DI Shaft At a loss of course....

but if I do not like it I'm stuck with a 920 break cue that nobody will buy ...MAYBE for 500 and I basically spent 450 to test drive a shaft like a dumb ass...
the power break 2 (shorty) butt is a keeper for me. Also I like the way it performs long jump shots without breaking it down
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So here is the thing with CG shafts, if you bang them on the side of a table, they are more sturdy than wood. However, those valley tables and others have sharp edges that when you scrape the shaft on it long the edge, will still cause damage to a CF shaft.

Really the fix for you is to change where you break and how you bridge on shooting to avoid all the crap areas on the table. It is not likely to affect break results much.

You can buy cheap CF break/play shafts on Amazon, eBay and try them out, but scraping across surfaces will still damage those.
 
RDeca said:
What's the deal with the black ice? Does the weight help or is it awkward
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I tried one for a bit, did not like it. It felt like I was being pushed into the shot rather than me controlling the hit. Think of a toddler pulling you through a store vs walking next to you LOL It would probalby be best for someone that does not stroke very fast on the break or beginners, a rail bridge is good for this shaft with a slower speed, IMHO. Like almost everything in pool equipment it's just how the player likes the hit/balance feel.
 
RDeca said:
What's the deal with the black ice? Does the weight help or is it awkward
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It definitely makes the cue forward balance but doesn’t get in the way. I really only notice the weight of the shaft when I hold the shaft in my hand by itself.

It does break well.


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