Carbon Shaft comments, please

Zerksies said:
I found A bigger difference going from a 314-1 to a 314-3, then going from a 314-3 to carbon. What I like most about carbon is humidity has no effect on the feel of the shaft. With wood I’d feel differences in the smoothness when humid and I would feel the shaft swell a bit carbon has no effect. I don’t wear gloves but if you use powder it’s going to feel like sandpaper on the shaft. I now carry a towel to dry my hands or clean my shaft. But my hands really don’t sweat either

I‘ve been a predator user for 20+ years, I didn’t think of any other brand
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I can’t know what your experience with wood shafts has been but it sounds like the cue makers you tried were pretty
inept. Not one of my cues, and my Runde Schon is 40 years old, has had any shaft swell or react to humidity unless the
indoor sprinklers were set off by accident. The shaft wood does not react and remain straight and smooth, I use
Renaissance Wax to seal my cues and it works. Museums use this wax to protect wood finishes on art treasures worth
many times more than my entire collection of pool cues. A good cue maker delivers a quality product and shaft swelling from being exposure to humidity is a pretty inferior product, IMO. You might want to try instead of powder, strained and
sifted corn starch or baby talc. Both will allow a properly sealed cue shaft to glide through even a tightly closed bridge.

At the pool hall today, I had all my cues out for a player to examine and try because he wanted to have a custom cue
made and was discussing the cue with Tascarella, a prominent name in cue making. A dozen shafts were out and tried.
Every single shaft is straight as a taut string, still smooth as satin and nary any chalk stains anywhere on the shafts. A
high quality cue will stand the test of time and unless you disrespect your pool cue by how you care for it, store it and
use it playing pool, a pool cue should remain pretty impervious to decay. I even use Renaissance wax of the sides of
my tips, not the tops, to maintain the leather condition. I bet I could play in light rain and my cue shafts wouldn’t swell.
 
j2pac said:
I recently had chance to test a Cuetec Avid shaft at 12.75mm. It had been sitting in my case for awhile, as some pretty chronic back issues have limited both my ability and desire to play.
I was finally able to get to the table for the first time in awhile, and I took that Avid shaft out for a spin. I was quite honestly thoroughly impressed.
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Most people are usually impressed.

Sorry to hear about your back issues. I’m glad you got to play some.
 
Low500 said:
I have a Predator 314, bought in 1995 and have played with it since then. I think I'd like to try out one of these carbon shafts.
My Predator 314 has a 5/16x14 joint. (Low deflection cue).
Rhino has these carbon shafts for $199. Predator has the carbon shafts for $499.
In my opinion there has GOT to be a reason for the big difference in price.
Please give me some opinions.
(and thanks for any intelligent replies about this)
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I own two Rhino carbon fiber shafts, and really like them. I have a Pechauer Rogue cf shaft, and although it is very well made, it is too slippery for my liking. Sort of contrary to what the fellow likes in the video.
 
I recently purchased a 12.75 Whyte carbon Kamui soft tip. To me it's the closest thing to the softer feel and sound of wood than I've experienced with other carbons. My personal journey to find a carbon I like is over.
 
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For what the White shaft sells for, you darn well had better be excited over getting it.
People are playing with pool cues costing a lot less. CF shafts can be very expensive.

I was shocked the other day after some players told me how much their break cue costs.
I’m out of touch with today’s cue prices. Heck, I still use a orig. McDermott Stinger J/B cue.

p.s. I did install a Kamui Sai Break Tip……it works better than I thought a leather tip would.
 
Low500 said:
I have a Predator 314, bought in 1995 and have played with it since then. I think I'd like to try out one of these carbon shafts.
My Predator 314 has a 5/16x14 joint. (Low deflection cue).
Rhino has these carbon shafts for $199. Predator has the carbon shafts for $499.
In my opinion there has GOT to be a reason for the big difference in price.
Please give me some opinions.
(and thanks for any intelligent replies about this)
Click to expand...
I played with a Predator 314 for a few years and switched to a Cuetec carbon. You can get a Cuetec Uni-Loc shaft for $399 at Seyberts.
seyberts.com

Cuetec Cynergy Uni-Loc Thin Collar Carbon Shaft

Cuetec's Cynergy Uni-loc thread carbon composite cue shafts are constructed with multi-plies of resin-impregnated military grade unidirectional carbon fiber filaments. The diameter of each filament is 7 um(0.007 mm), or about one twelfth of a human hair. The orientation of these carbon fiber...
seyberts.com seyberts.com
 
FFF
Bavafongoul said:
For what the White shaft sells for, you darn well had better be excited over getting it.
People are playing with pool cues costing a lot less. CF shafts can be very expensive.

I was shocked the other day after some players told me how much their break cue costs.
I’m out of touch with today’s cue prices. Heck, I still use a orig. McDermott Stinger J/B cue.

p.s. I did install a Kamui Sai Break Tip……it works better than I thought a leather tip woul
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One of the joys of pool is to try the new technology or equipment they have for the sport.

There are a lot more companies now that offer good products. I know it may be overwhelming but once you break down tips and shafts you're set to go.

You can have your collectible cues and then you can have your new stuff. The new stuff you can sell and trade without regrets. May find something you actually like.
 
Back issues…..especially in your lumbar region of the back from your coccyx to your waistline…..are awful.
Swollen, pinched, ruptured discs are debilitating and only chiropractic care, weight loss and exercise help
control the condition. But you bend and stretch in pool all the time so it can become incredibly painful.

Here’s a tip……everyone pay attention……back braces help some people and does nothing for others except
keep their posture straight. Instead, do what my chiropractor told me. Get a trochanter belt…..2” wide……hard
to find in medical supply stores but you may get lucky. I had to get mine using eBay. I have one at home and in
my car. I gave one to my son who is a martial arts practitioner. It applies pressure to the exact point in your hips
and lower back. Throw away those other back braces. I’ve used a trochanter belt for over 30 years……it works.

Now it will not cure your back ailment because the spine is very complex. But you will get immediate relief by
pulling the belt as tight as you can. It can be worn below your belt line under your clothes and isn’t noticeable.
 
Bavafongoul said:
For what the White shaft sells for, you darn well had better be excited over getting it.
People are playing with pool cues costing a lot less. CF shafts can be very expensive.

I was shocked the other day after some players told me how much their break cue costs.
I’m out of touch with today’s cue prices. Heck, I still use a orig. McDermott Stinger J/B cue.

p.s. I did install a Kamui Sai Break Tip……it works better than I thought a leather tip would.
Click to expand...
The SAI is an amazing break tip. Had a Samsara on my BKRush and it delaminated TWICE. I don't even break that hard...
Have always liked Kamui so gave the SAI a chance and love it so far.
 
I've played with a bunch. I currently own a Rhino, several Revos, Cynergy, gen 1 Defy, Siege and a Bull Carbon.

Before carbon fiber, I shot with a McDermott i2 and had a no cat logo 314 as a backup. I still have these as well as a 314-1, 314-2, 314-3, OB-1, various diameter Avid and wood Cuetec shafts as well as various Lucasi LD and non-LD shafts.

As you might imagine if you have read this far, I have way too many cues/shafts.

These days, I pretty much play with one of my Revos, either on a P3, Roadline or Lucasi butt. This is usually a 12.9mm Revo.

It's my opinion that the Revo plays a bit better for me than the rest but it's not a huge leap.

A Revo is slightly lower deflection than a 314-3 in my opinion. The i2 is about the same as the 314-3. One thing that probably reinforces this is that most of them have the same tip which is a Kamui Black Clear medium.

One thing that hadn't been apparent to me prior to getting hearing aids was the sound they make when you strike a ball. Revo is a bit hollow sounding to me. I haven't shot the rest enough since then to have an informed opinion on them.

Here's what I said about Rhino on a reddit thread:

I'd suggest buying one off of Amazon. It's a little more expensive that way but the ease of return makes it worthwhile. I think they are a great value for the money and default are 30" long with a white vault plate.​
​
They do have a few things to consider:​
  • It's not as smooth/slick as a Revo/Cynergy but it's also half the price. It's not a huge difference but it is there.
  • I'm also not a fan of the factory tip but it's playable. They say it's soft but it plays like a hard coming from Kamui Black mediums on most of my other shafts.
  • Most of them in my experience require a wipe down with alcohol when you first get it to get the carbon fiber dust off of it.
TLDR: Rhino is a good value for the money but there could be some quality control concerns. Order from Amazon and return it if necessary. If you have the money to spend, it's hard to go wrong with a Revo.
 
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