Carom Cue Recommendations?
- Thread starter crazycueman
- Start date
You're right and I don't know why I keep:banghead: & :banghead: & :banghead:
Room owners will never get it I'm afraid.
Definitely I will have to choose "LAYANI", I have owned more than 30 high end cues (adam's, schuler's, Longoni's, Alcalde's, etc...) and the best cue I have found is "LAYANI", there are some elements in Thierry’s cue that for sure make the difference:
1.- The joint, it will not wear, super resistant and it is not affected due to temperature changes, wooden joint vary the hit substantially due to temp variations. Thanks to the cone joint the hit feels with no vibrations at all, more like a "pure hit".
2.- Inlay work, it is flawless and different from normal carom cues.
3.- The Layani tip, I've played for 10 years with moori's and decided to switch to layani tip it hold chalk much better.
4.- The ferrule, don't know the exact material but it is really resistant has thick walls.
5.- Plus is a handmade cue.
I had the opportunity to play with Fred Caudron in Colombia in June 2008 and by that time he played with a Layani grand slam, currently he plays with the same cues achieving incredible results, that says a lot...
Regards
1.- The joint, it will not wear, super resistant and it is not affected due to temperature changes, wooden joint vary the hit substantially due to temp variations. Thanks to the cone joint the hit feels with no vibrations at all, more like a "pure hit".
2.- Inlay work, it is flawless and different from normal carom cues.
3.- The Layani tip, I've played for 10 years with moori's and decided to switch to layani tip it hold chalk much better.
4.- The ferrule, don't know the exact material but it is really resistant has thick walls.
5.- Plus is a handmade cue.
I had the opportunity to play with Fred Caudron in Colombia in June 2008 and by that time he played with a Layani grand slam, currently he plays with the same cues achieving incredible results, that says a lot...
Regards
Hi Mr Kilby
I have no doubt he owns and uses your cues.
But AFAIK some others cuemakers claims the same.
And I'm sure Mr Shooni owns several other cues (IE Dieckman).
What I'm trying to say is
1.- Players on that level can play well with any cue.
2.- They have to use what they are paid for to use.
Anyway, if he plays with Kilby, Adam, Dieckman, Predator or Walmart cues, it doesn't have nothing to do with the quality of your cues.
I'm sure he prefers to play with CERTAIN cues, in this case your cues.
Never had one in my hands but they look awesome.
I have no doubt he owns and uses your cues.
But AFAIK some others cuemakers claims the same.
And I'm sure Mr Shooni owns several other cues (IE Dieckman).
What I'm trying to say is
1.- Players on that level can play well with any cue.
2.- They have to use what they are paid for to use.
Anyway, if he plays with Kilby, Adam, Dieckman, Predator or Walmart cues, it doesn't have nothing to do with the quality of your cues.
I'm sure he prefers to play with CERTAIN cues, in this case your cues.
Never had one in my hands but they look awesome.
Last edited:
redcordes
New member
Cue construction fundamentals
I don't know cue-building, and this may be minor, but with an all-wood joint, the male portion of the joint is an extension of and part of the shaft--it's all one, solid piece of wood. The female portion is in the butt. It seems better from a simple construction point of view to put the hole in the larger piece; and to increase the size/mass of the smaller, more fragile piece (shaft) for better structural integrity. It also uses the basic principal in woodworking that the best joints are wood against wood and not made by various fasteners and pieces. And, let's face it, it's a purer form of craftsmanship.
I don't know cue-building, and this may be minor, but with an all-wood joint, the male portion of the joint is an extension of and part of the shaft--it's all one, solid piece of wood. The female portion is in the butt. It seems better from a simple construction point of view to put the hole in the larger piece; and to increase the size/mass of the smaller, more fragile piece (shaft) for better structural integrity. It also uses the basic principal in woodworking that the best joints are wood against wood and not made by various fasteners and pieces. And, let's face it, it's a purer form of craftsmanship.
I doubt that Ron pays Mazin to play with his cue....I know I never did and he finally replaced his Dieckman with a Kilby. I know I GAVE Mazin every cue I have made for him [except the first one for which he paid, as I recall, $225 way back when, BUT THAT WAS WHEN I COULD STILL BEAT HIM LEFT HANDED] and I am sure that is all Ron did. Now as to the TIGER stuff, Maz better be getting at least $10,000 a year or he cut a bad deal......
Carom Cue Recommendations
Thank you for all the information. There is a lot of useful information and comments. I am sure that I am not the only one to benefit from this information. There are close to 1000 views of this one thread alone. As a newbie, it sure helps to have the benefit of the access to the expert cue makers (builders) on this forum.
Much appreciated,
Crazycueman
Thank you for all the information. There is a lot of useful information and comments. I am sure that I am not the only one to benefit from this information. There are close to 1000 views of this one thread alone. As a newbie, it sure helps to have the benefit of the access to the expert cue makers (builders) on this forum.
Much appreciated,
Crazycueman
Thank you for all the replies...
Thanks to all who replied. It has been tremendously helpful!
Crazycueman
Thanks to all who replied. It has been tremendously helpful!
Crazycueman