CB weights

Pidge

Pidge

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Been to play at a pool hall I've never played at today with a friend. They used the red logo aramith CB and moving the CB around became such an effort. They felt heavy and unresponsive. Drawing the CB when CB OB distance was greater than 3ft was tough...real tough. The CB seemed to just want to either stop or follow. I'd hit as low as possible without miscueing the length of the table as hard as I could and it resulted in a stop shot. If I did this on my table with a measles CB I'd draw back to the shot rail atleast.

The tables weren't in great condition either so maybe it was the tables. Very worn cloth with a few stains.

So what I want to know, is there any weight difference between the measles and red logo CBs? Or was it poor table conditions?

Cheers.
 
My guess is loose cloth...probably due to dampness.
The red logo ball is a good ball.
 
pt109 said:
My guess is loose cloth...probably due to dampness.
The red logo ball is a good ball.
Click to expand...
I thought as much.

But you could physically see that the CB wasn't spinning and it felt really heavy. Maybe they were fake I dunno.

I would have had to be the size of a friggin' tank to generate enough power for a full table draw shot.

Where did I put my roids?

EDIT: I forgot to add that the CB was a different colour to any aramith CB I've played with. It was darker and I don't think it was because it was dirty. My guess is its a fake.
 
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I was told red circles are made by various manufacturers, maybe that accounts for the weigh discrepency. A while back I took a scale and weighed a whole bunch of ball sets. Centennials and Aramiths came in at around 5.9 ounce. Ball to ball difference was 5.9x, or one hundreth of an ounce. Belgian, Sportcrafts, and other sets came in around 5.6 ounces. One poolhall I frequent carry both sets. The staff refer to the Centennials and Aramith Super Pros as the heavy set, which they give out to players on demand.
 
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ctyhntr said:
Red circles are made by various manufacturers. A while back I took a scale and weighed a whole bunch of ball sets. Centennials and Aramiths came in at around 5.9 ounce. Belgian, Sportcrafts, and other sets came in around 5.6 ounces.
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I think the OP meant "red logo" not red circle. Completely different ball. The red logos (which have that "S"-looking Aramith logo, and not a circle) are bundled with some sets of Aramith ballsets, while the red circle is always a standalone cueball, and was never bundled with ballsets.

-Sean
 
A science question

There is difinetly a difference in cue ball weights and how they play.

I don't know if I should start another thread, but since this is so new & a related topic I'll ask this science question as I and my hall owner seem to be of differing opinions.

It's a science question. When hit with low side english, say 4:30 or 7:30 tip placement, What weight ball will convey more spin induced throw, a lighter than OB cue ball or a heavier than an OB cue ball?

Pidge, if this not okay with you just say so & I wipe it out & start a new thread.

Best Regards,
 
ENGLISH! said:
There is difinetly a difference in cue ball weights and how they play.

I don't know if I should start another thread, but since this is so new & a related topic I'll ask this science question as I and my hall owner seem to be of differing opinions.

It's a science question. When hit with low side english, say 4:30 or 7:30 tip placement, What weight ball will convey more spin induced throw, a lighter than OB cue ball or a heavier than an OB cue ball?

Pidge, if this not okay with you just say so & I wipe it out & start a new thread.

Best Regards,
Click to expand...
It is not ok, Rick! Start your own thread ffs!!!! Haha

Nah I'm joking. Valid question and my guess would be...idk. I'm sure DrDave or PJ will know.
 
Sean,

Thanks for correcting me. I haven't seen the red logo one, just the blue that came with Aramith Pros.

Right now there seems to be alot of interests in cueballs. Other than weight, what other variables can we measure to back up opinions?

sfleinen said:
I think the OP meant "red logo" not red circle. Completely different ball. The red logos (which have that "S"-looking Aramith logo, and not a circle) are bundled with some sets of Aramith ballsets, while the red circle is always a standalone cueball, and was never bundled with ballsets.

-Sean
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ENGLISH! said:
Seems to be not worth the effort.
Click to expand...

Ask yourself what does a pool player do if he enters a pool room and the conditions are such that he needs to adjust his typical playing style.

He simply adjusts and moves on. Because the next day he will enter another new room, with another set of different conditions. Will he start a thread for each pool table he plays on? With each cueball he encounters? With each new pool room he enters?

Think about things before you post my good friend.
 
ChrisBanks said:
Ask yourself what does a pool player do if he enters a pool room and the conditions are such that he needs to adjust his typical playing style.

He simply adjusts and moves on. Because the next day he will enter another new room, with another set of different conditions. Will he start a thread for each pool table he plays on? With each cueball he encounters? With each new pool room he enters?

Think about things before you post my good friend.
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I think you need to think about things.

I play with the TV Aramith sets, both at home and when I play for money. Everyone I play uses these so why adjust when I have no plan to go 'on the road' or turn pro? Even if I joined a uk or European tour, I'm sure they use the TV sets. And if not, they most certainly will use the measles CB.

Regards
Pidge ChrisBanks Pidginson
 
ENGLISH! said:
There is difinetly a difference in cue ball weights and how they play.

I don't know if I should start another thread, but since this is so new & a related topic I'll ask this science question as I and my hall owner seem to be of differing opinions.

It's a science question. When hit with low side english, say 4:30 or 7:30 tip placement, What weight ball will convey more spin induced throw, a lighter than OB cue ball or a heavier than an OB cue ball?

Pidge, if this not okay with you just say so & I wipe it out & start a new thread.

Best Regards,
Click to expand...
I'm guessing the lighter cue-ball will throw the object-ball more.
I'm equating this to playing on a very heavy cloth...like 40 oz. in a British
club...the object-ball on heavy cloth creates a resistance to impact....
...so the cue-ball has a longer 'dwell' time and 'redirects' it more.
I would think a light cue-ball replicates this to a lesser degree.
 
ctyhntr said:
Sean,

Thanks for correcting me. I haven't seen the red logo one, just the blue that came with Aramith Pros.

Right now there seems to be alot of interests in cueballs. Other than weight, what other variables can we measure to back up opinions?
Click to expand...

I would think the "material make-up" of the ball itself would be the next logical factor behind weight. In other words, how does the material of the ball interact with the cloth? Would "surface lubricity" be the proper term? (Not sure -- definitely a Dr. Dave / Bob Jewett / PJ question.)

I have noticed that red circle balls draw almost literally "exponentially" better than any other ball. And if you look at the opacity of the red circle's material, you can visually see that it's a different type of plastic / phenolic / epoxy. The red circle balls tend to be "zingy" with draw, while other balls react normally. That's my observation, anyway.

I prefer other balls over the red circles, because draw is more predictable with them. (I.e. I prefer measles ball, blue-circle Centennial, or black-logo'ed ball. The red logo'ed ball plays well, too.)

IMHO,
-Sean
 
I've always wondered what the differences were between different cueballs. I'd say the one I've played with the most is probably the black circle cueball, but I've never seen anything definitive that laid out the substantive differences if there were any.
 
*mythbusters thinking mode on*

For measuring lube, eh friction, maybe we can measure by rolling the balls down a ramp and see how far the ball travels. Maybe compare a lint free path, versus normal for deflection (call it the Johnny Archer test).

I think we can test zingyness by dropping the balls and see how they rebound. I was told Centennials made under contract by Saluc uses the same resin as the Super Pros. So, balls from both sets should bounce the same.

As for measuring draw, unless someone has access to Iron Willy, not sure how to make this a consistent.

sfleinen said:
I would think the "material make-up" of the ball itself would be the next logical factor behind weight. In other words, how does the material of the ball interact with the cloth? Would "surface lubricity" be the proper term? (Not sure -- definitely a Dr. Dave / Bob Jewett / PJ question.)

I have noticed that red circle balls draw almost literally "exponentially" better than any other ball. And if you look at the opacity of the red circle's material, you can visually see that it's a different type of plastic / phenolic / epoxy. The red circle balls tend to be "zingy" with draw, while other balls react normally. That's my observation, anyway.

I prefer other balls over the red circles, because draw is more predictable with them. (I.e. I prefer measles ball, blue-circle Centennial, or black-logo'ed ball. The red logo'ed ball plays well, too.)

IMHO,
-Sean
Click to expand...
 
ChrisBanks said:
Ask yourself what does a pool player do if he enters a pool room and the conditions are such that he needs to adjust his typical playing style.

He simply adjusts and moves on. Because the next day he will enter another new room, with another set of different conditions. Will he start a thread for each pool table he plays on? With each cueball he encounters? With each new pool room he enters?

Think about things before you post my good friend.
Click to expand...

You seem to be only concerned with your own topics that so many on this forum really have no interest in but respond to for either the humor or disbelief.

Why are you so self-absorbed, immature, and/or bitter.

I recently joined an individual league & have found that I am not getting the spin induced throw that I am use to getting. I asked the hall owner regarding the cue ball & we are of differing oinions.

I agree with you about adapting but sometimes knowledge of equipment can be useful & speed up the process. I have two shafts with different tips for different conditions. I would rather change shafts & make a minor adjustment than have to make a more severe adjustment on my own.

I am thinkng. Are you? Are do you only think up ways to get an unsportsmanlike advantage?

Best Wishes,
 
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StraightPoolIU said:
I've always wondered what the differences were between different cueballs. I'd say the one I've played with the most is probably the black circle cueball, but I've never seen anything definitive that laid out the substantive differences if there were any.
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Have you ever played with a cheap, like $30 ball set? You spot the difference immediately. Sounds different, feels different and reacts different. At my local pub they have a 7ft American style table, not sure of the brand and they have a really cheap ball set and you can tell the weight difference just by holding the CB.

That is how the red logo ball played. Surely a fake. I should have tried hitting a spot or stripe to see how it compared to the whole set.
 
ctyhntr said:
*mythbusters thinking mode on*

For measuring lube, eh friction, maybe we can measure by rolling the balls down a ramp and see how far the ball travels. Maybe compare a lint free path, versus normal for deflection (call it the Johnny Archer test).

I think we can test zingyness by dropping the balls and see how they rebound. I was told Centennials made under contract by Saluc uses the same resin as the Super Pros. So, balls from both sets should bounce the same.

As for measuring draw, unless someone has access to Iron Willy, not sure how to make this a consistent.
Click to expand...

I like *all* of these! As for the last one (the draw test), I'm thinking one of these:

http://pneupowercue.com/

...along with a carefully-monitored charge might be as close to an "iron willy" as we can get? Or maybe a simple pendulum-mounted cue (e.g. suspended from ceiling) that is pulled back a very-carefully measured amount, and then let go?

Just some follow-up thoughts.

In any case, a scientific test on cueballs is long overdue.

-Sean
 
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