The only thing weird to me is that it rolled incredible distances when I dropped it on the floor. It was almost comical at times. As far as chalking properly, I liked the round shape.
Regards,
Dave
CHALK TEST - Taom Pyro vs. Master
- Thread starter dr_dave
- Start date
Regards,
Dave
It is tough to justify that price as a consumer when Master is so effective and so cheap. Master does stay on the CB longer, but cling/skid/kick is not a huge issue for most people.
Regards,
Dave
I noticed during my testing also that Taom Pyro doesn't seem to go on and stay on the tip as easily as many other chalks, but it doesn't seem to affect performance, especially if you chalk carefully and before each shot as you should.
Regards,
Dave
Think the last time I bough Master Green it was like $1.35 for a box of SIX CUBES. I seldom replace a Cube as it is used until the end of Cube cracks.
It last forever if you use it properly.
Cling/skid/kick doesn't happen often; but when it does to a top player against stiff competition, it can have large implications like loss of a game or a match.
One of my pet peeves is people mistaking a normal and expected amount of throw (which can be large at times; for example, with a slow stun shot) for cling/skid/kick. A miss due to not compensating for throw is the shooter's fault ... not the chalk or anything else.
Regards,
Dave
While I practice at home with Pyro (pointless to use out at a non-refereed match/tournament with opponents using Master, and thus marking up the CB), the one drawback I see is getting so used to successfully slow-rolling cut shots, you might forget about the danger of skids.
I was there in person- I do NOT think the ball skidded, he just missed it- that was my point- I fully understand his frustration, but his opponent Nick Varner would just accept a miss and walk away- yelling out that the ball skidded - I don't know - I guess its OK, It is like if you tip the ball with two strikes and it goes into the cather's mitt - your out man! That's just part of the game, accept it and walk away.
I don't dislike Dan, but I have never been his biggest fan either. Watch some of his Tube lessons- there are many available- lots of times when he misses on a Gold Crown- he claims out loud that the table is not level. He does that on several of his U Tube 14.1 lessons- and these lessons are all on different tables! I just don't believe in making excuses when things don't happen as one would wish they happened- you accept it and move on- in pool you just give your opponent the table and shut up. it's all about taking responsibility.
Dr. Dave Really Deserves His Own AZ Forum.
Chalk....it is indispensable, lots of brands to choose from, it can be pricey but still free at every pool hall.
How do we choose which chalk? Well, everyone has an opinion as to what works best.....for them. There’s
things to consider such as, of course, price but nowadays that no longer seems to be disqualifying for what
I’m supposing is the majority of pool players. What’s the worst case scenario on how much you’ll spend
in a year using an expensive pool chalk? If that amount sits wrong with you, then just pick a different brand.
Dr. Dave has undeniably proven through extensive testing that basically all chalks perform alike when any
brand is applied properly after every shot. You can actually do it every other shot but if you do it every time,
even if you forgot, the chalk would still be on your cue’s tip. Doing it every time is the best routine....IMO.
There is also the cleanliness aspect which is the most important criteria for me in lieu of Dr. Dave’s findings
since for decades my pre-shot routine is to apply chalk after every shot and I do it correctly. That topic is
one that could never get discussed too much since everywhere I go I still find people chalking improperly
and pool halls wind up providing chalk that looks like Black & Decker drill was used rather than a pool cue.
Ferrule composition is a consideration that becomes associated with chalk because just check out your ow
cue’s ferrules or glance at what everyone is using. Even resin ferrules look a lot better after being cleaned
with tooth paste but the real blessing is ivory ferrules that are impervious to chalk stains. I also prefer the
acoustical sound of the hit of an ivory ferrule but that’s another topic for another day. Since my ferrules are
ivory, any chalk can be used but when the ferrules aren’t, a cleaner chalk helps protect your cue’s ferrules
and also the shafts. But remember, that chalk on your hand is likely due to you coring your pool chalk rather
than using a brush stroke to apply it to the tip. Dr. Dave went to great length explaining how to apply chalk
properly and everyone could benefit from reading his great article again but especially if it’s their first time.
In conclusion, play whatever brand chalk you like or can afford but recognize it hasn’t any advantage over
any other brand of pool chalk regardless of its composition, or country of origin, when you apply it correctly.
Chalk....it is indispensable, lots of brands to choose from, it can be pricey but still free at every pool hall.
How do we choose which chalk? Well, everyone has an opinion as to what works best.....for them. There’s
things to consider such as, of course, price but nowadays that no longer seems to be disqualifying for what
I’m supposing is the majority of pool players. What’s the worst case scenario on how much you’ll spend
in a year using an expensive pool chalk? If that amount sits wrong with you, then just pick a different brand.
Dr. Dave has undeniably proven through extensive testing that basically all chalks perform alike when any
brand is applied properly after every shot. You can actually do it every other shot but if you do it every time,
even if you forgot, the chalk would still be on your cue’s tip. Doing it every time is the best routine....IMO.
There is also the cleanliness aspect which is the most important criteria for me in lieu of Dr. Dave’s findings
since for decades my pre-shot routine is to apply chalk after every shot and I do it correctly. That topic is
one that could never get discussed too much since everywhere I go I still find people chalking improperly
and pool halls wind up providing chalk that looks like Black & Decker drill was used rather than a pool cue.
Ferrule composition is a consideration that becomes associated with chalk because just check out your ow
cue’s ferrules or glance at what everyone is using. Even resin ferrules look a lot better after being cleaned
with tooth paste but the real blessing is ivory ferrules that are impervious to chalk stains. I also prefer the
acoustical sound of the hit of an ivory ferrule but that’s another topic for another day. Since my ferrules are
ivory, any chalk can be used but when the ferrules aren’t, a cleaner chalk helps protect your cue’s ferrules
and also the shafts. But remember, that chalk on your hand is likely due to you coring your pool chalk rather
than using a brush stroke to apply it to the tip. Dr. Dave went to great length explaining how to apply chalk
properly and everyone could benefit from reading his great article again but especially if it’s their first time.
In conclusion, play whatever brand chalk you like or can afford but recognize it hasn’t any advantage over
any other brand of pool chalk regardless of its composition, or country of origin, when you apply it correctly.
That's one of those cases where I think people sometimes mistake the large amount of throw with slow-roll shots (especially 1/2-ball hit or thinner) with cling/skid/kick. One can compensate aim for throw, unlike with cling/skid/kick which is often out of one's control (unless one uses gearing outside spin on every shot, in which case throw or cling/skid/kick will never cause a miss).
Regards,
Dave
For those interested, this can be found here:
how to chalk properly
Good conclusion. I agree. Although, I don't like chalks that mark up the CB a lot. That's a problem not only for the person with the chalk, but their opponents also.
Regards,
Dave
My point exactly. If position target rules out ‘outside’ english, plan to hit the shot harder.
Ordered a few cubes of pyro today. Used blue diamond for a long time at home and just wiped the cue down at the end of the rack. Interested to see how much cleaner the table and balls stay with the pyro. I know I miss more than the chalks fault, but can’t hurt to reduce the effect the chalk has ... especially since I have been using a chalk that definitely leaves more residue on the CB
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I don't think skids are affected much by speed, so you shouldn't have to worry about that.
pj <- if that's what you meant
chgo
I have been using Taom Pyro exclusively for quite some time. It is by far my favorite chalk of all time. I love that it doesn’t transfer much dust to the cue ball. I also like the fact that it is round instead of square. I am one of those people who paints the chalk on their tip and it’s perfect for me. I can’t see anything negative about it. As much use as I get out of a piece of chalk for $20, I can’t complain! Great video Dr. Dave.
I think dr. dave agrees with you, but I would need to see an experiment proving that. The principle cause of ‘throw/cling’ & ‘skid‘ are essentially the same (excessive friction). If increased contact force/speed generally reduces friction, logic would dictate the cause of friction is basically irrelevant (though the degree/speed scale might well vary with the cause).
Agreed. But when cling/skid/kick does occur, it is the most dramatic at slow speed, especially at larger cut angles, because the amount of excessive throw is so large.
Regards,
Dave
You must not drop it on the floor very often. It amazes me how far it can travel when it does its roll thing across the room. :grin-square:
Thanks!
Regards,
Dave
Pyro have one drawback. It does not provide best grip with hard tips. Soft tips it is the best. Keeps tables, balls and hands clean. No skids. Round shape makes chalk always worn evenly. One piece last probably 5 times longer than master. At least. Probably 90% of active Finnish players use Taom 2.0 or Pyro.
I personally know inventor and he said they have improved it still (grip and hold with harder tips) but still not have test pieces of new formula.
I personally know inventor and he said they have improved it still (grip and hold with harder tips) but still not have test pieces of new formula.