change joint uni loc to 3/8-10

M

mrinsatiable

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
has anyone ever tried changing a uni loc joint to a standard 3/8-10?

there's a high end cue that i like (priced over $2K) but it has a uni loc.

wondering how difficult it is to change the pin or the entire joint.
 
mrinsatiable said:
has anyone ever tried changing a uni loc joint to a standard 3/8-10?

there's a high end cue that i like (priced over $2K) but it has a uni loc.

wondering how difficult it is to change the pin or the entire joint.
Click to expand...

Why do you want to change it. No matter what screw you use, it only has one job...TO HOLD THE SHAFT TO THE BUTT. I don't think one screw has any advantage, as far as playability...JER
 
mrinsatiable said:
has anyone ever tried changing a uni loc joint to a standard 3/8-10?

there's a high end cue that i like (priced over $2K) but it has a uni loc.

wondering how difficult it is to change the pin or the entire joint.
Click to expand...

Can be done, Best place to start is with the Cue maker who made it.
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
No matter what screw you use, it only has one job...TO HOLD THE SHAFT TO THE BUTT. I don't think one screw has any advantage, as far as playability...JER
Click to expand...

With all due respect, Not even a can of worms but a whole bucket that may argue that point.
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Why do you want to change it. No matter what screw you use, it only has one job...TO HOLD THE SHAFT TO THE BUTT. I don't think one screw has any advantage, as far as playability...JER
Click to expand...

I'm no cue maker, nor a professional pool player. But i do believe the pin does make a cue feel different. Since you're a cue maker, you should try using 2 different joint pins, on the exact same cue.Do tell me if you feel a difference, and while at that, do try to keep and open mind.
 
Yes, any pin can be changed out. A job like this would require removing the Uniloc, boring, plugging the hole, and installing the new pin. The same would have to be done for the shaft(s). $75-100.
 
Some years back I did an experiment with a Q I made & was my everyday player. It had a stainless steel 5/16-18 joint screw. I removed that screw & replaced it with a stainless 3/8-10 screw. I played with it for a few months & decided that the bigger screw made the Q too forward weighted, for my taste. I removed the stainless screw & replaced it with an aluminum 3/8-10 screw. I played with that Q for about a year, before I sold it. The ONLY difference I ever felt in that Q, was with the weight distribution. Using either of the 3 screws didn't change the hit or feel of the Q. I also had a different Q with a 5/16-18 brass screw that had been bent. I replaced that screw with a 5/16-18 steel screw & never noticed any playing difference. All of these Qs were flatfaced. It's my opinion, from these experiments, that at least all metal screws hold the 2 flat faces together tightly & the play is not changed. I can't speak for any nonmetal screws, because I have never made a Q using one...JER
 
new screws and joints..

the only reason i want it changed is because all my playing shafts are 3/8-10 flat faced and this new cue is uniloc piloted...so couldn't use my current playing shaft with it.

also this uniloc joint/cue maker is a very very exclusive builder whom would probably take me more than several months. ie. searing. hercek...etc.
 
Options are nice, do you like options?

There are a couple of different way to get to your goal.
One just requires removing the Uni-pin, drill/tap & install and you're done. Considerably less involvement.

Another is the method that Ryan suggests. Post #6. I'm sure there are others.
The reason that there are 2 options here has to do with the pilot cavity in your handle's joint. Do you want that cavity filled or not?
Consider that there are 3/8x10 piloted joints so that cavity does exist in nature. Anyway, what I'm saying is that the cavity configuration is in use today and that makes the option viable.

Problem with options is that they open up a whole new set of questions to be answered.

I'm not bidding the job nor do I want it. As far as I'm concerned it's spoken for.
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Some years back I did an experiment with a Q I made & was my everyday player. It had a stainless steel 5/16-18 joint screw. I removed that screw & replaced it with a stainless 3/8-10 screw. I played with it for a few months & decided that the bigger screw made the Q too forward weighted, for my taste. I removed the stainless screw & replaced it with an aluminum 3/8-10 screw. I played with that Q for about a year, before I sold it. The ONLY difference I ever felt in that Q, was with the weight distribution. Using either of the 3 screws didn't change the hit or feel of the Q. I also had a different Q with a 5/16-18 brass screw that had been bent. I replaced that screw with a 5/16-18 steel screw & never noticed any playing difference. All of these Qs were flatfaced. It's my opinion, from these experiments, that at least all metal screws hold the 2 flat faces together tightly & the play is not changed. I can't speak for any nonmetal screws, because I have never made a Q using one...JER
Click to expand...


I have to agree I too have changed pins out and have not been able to tell a difference except in weight distribution. I believe the feel is in the shaft taper and butt construction including joint type, materials ect. However this subject willl have different opinions from different people. Now if someone was set on changing out a pin and they thought it would improve the hit or feel I may give my opinion but would certainly change it for the customer. Heck they may start winning every game they play afterwards :thumbup:
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Some years back I did an experiment with a Q I made & was my everyday player. It had a stainless steel 5/16-18 joint screw. I removed that screw & replaced it with a stainless 3/8-10 screw. I played with it for a few months & decided that the bigger screw made the Q too forward weighted, for my taste. I removed the stainless screw & replaced it with an aluminum 3/8-10 screw. I played with that Q for about a year, before I sold it. The ONLY difference I ever felt in that Q, was with the weight distribution. Using either of the 3 screws didn't change the hit or feel of the Q. I also had a different Q with a 5/16-18 brass screw that had been bent. I replaced that screw with a 5/16-18 steel screw & never noticed any playing difference. All of these Qs were flatfaced. It's my opinion, from these experiments, that at least all metal screws hold the 2 flat faces together tightly & the play is not changed. I can't speak for any nonmetal screws, because I have never made a Q using one...JER
Click to expand...

So based on your answer,
g10--Aluminum, brass and stainless screws offer different weight distributions,
Isn't weight distribution part of the hit?
 
Last edited:
At the risk of stirring the worms I'm going to side with Jer.
The type and weight of the pin will not define or affect the hit.
It will affect the bal. point but the hit remains the same.
Changing the bal. point can cause the player to change the position of the grip-hand, slightly, but the cue will still hit the same.
This is assuming that the definition of 'hit' is feedback.
Change the joint collars, ferrule or even the tip and you'll change the hit.
 
Hit and feel are two different issues. The pin affects both. Feel is what is called feedback, the transfer of energy from impacting the CB. The more contact you have between the shaft and the butt, the better the feel. Radial pins, for example, have about 95% contact, as opposed to a 3/8-10 that have about 65% contact. Based on that, the radial should have a better feel but it is a heavier, longer pin so the hit will be stiffer and forward. The mass of any given pin interrupts the vibration. More mass, more interruption. I believe this is why you are seeing a gradual move toward the G10 radial. More contact, less mass.


<~what do I know? I use a 5/16-14.
 
ratcues said:
Hit and feel are two different issues. The pin affects both. Feel is what is called feedback, the transfer of energy from impacting the CB. The more contact you have between the shaft and the butt, the better the feel. Radial pins, for example, have about 95% contact, as opposed to a 3/8-10 that have about 65% contact. Based on that, the radial should have a better feel but it is a heavier, longer pin so the hit will be stiffer and forward. The mass of any given pin interrupts the vibration. More mass, more interruption. I believe this is why you are seeing a gradual move toward the G10 radial. More contact, less mass.


<~what do I know? I use a 5/16-14.
Click to expand...

I agree as well. The screw is in the line of transmission between the tip and your hand. It has , albiet only a small percent of the whole , an effect on the continuity of the 2 halves of the cue. The pin also adds spine to the joint. Different pins will most definately give the joint different amounts of spine. It all adds up to feel.

IMO. :)
 
Here was my test.
Players
Joe Tucker, Ray Macnamara, Ryan McCreesh, Tony Roberto and Frank Hernandez. I would think some would have heard of at least two of these players.
One shaft and three different butts, all mine with different joint screws but all radial. All played close but different. Just my opinion but I think the joint screw plays more of a role than some think.
 
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