Changed tip, complete loss of spin?

[painfullyslow]

Ok I kind of got your point with this, Sniper and G2 are both on the softer side for tips so if you dislike both there's a good chance that you're not a soft tip kind of guy. So my advise to you is try a HARD tip and see how that feels.

Thank you for your response. I guess I had it in my head that most players went with a *softer* tip upon moving to CF shafts. I always shot with medium on my wooden ones and would be more than happy to give them a try on the CF shaft.

 

[painfullyslow]

I only have maple shafts (12.75-13 mm) from the original cue maker for all my cues.
Switching to LD & CF shafts after 60 yrs. playing pool w/maple shafts doesn’t work.

I tried several and I don’t like the look and especially the feel of CF shafts. My cues’
shafts are pristine & feel better than any new shafts I’ve ever seen. Crocus cloth &
Renaissance Wax render the cue shafts like glass. Jewelers polish gold using crocus.

I completely understand this. I have been playing since the 80s and the change to LD and then CF shafts was a jarring one, and it took a considerable amount of time (old dog, new tricks). I have since grown to like the CF shaft but the main benefit for me is the fact that it will never get a ding in it. I am extremely OCD to the point where a dinged shaft got replaced so for that reason alone, CF was a necessity.

 

[painfullyslow]

New tips always play a little "mushy" to me in the first week.
I use med-hard one piece leather tips and after the " break in period" they all spin the ball about the same.

I appreciate the response. The tip is just about a week old but probably 40 hours of play on it in that time. My previous tip changes felt like they had broken in well before this mark. I suppose it could break in further and will continue playing on it for the next 3-4 days anyway since I cant get the tip replaced until then.

I have a match in about an hour so perhaps it will feel a little better to me this time with more play on it.

 

[ChrisinNC]

I kind of agree with him and i'll tell you why.

I also do get your point, a 5 to 7 ft draw shot will show you how solid a stroke is and how good a person draws, but he wasn't trying to get a good draw or practicing draw shots.

All he was doing is, measuring a difference of two cue/tips with the same exact shot, so therefore he has already SET a datum for his draw shot, even if it's not a difficult shot. This means he could set two of the same shots then try two tips with same speed/stroke, then he can conclude which one draws better, simple as this.

So yes he wasn't trying to do a difficult draw, just a measurement of two of the same draw with two different tips.

My point was only that his initial explanation of full table draw vs 80% full table draw just doesn’t give us much idea of what level of draw stroke he’s working with unless info is provided as to how far apart the balls are when he’s conducting this comparison. Yes, obviously he’s getting 20% less draw with his current tip.

Many variables could be responsible for this difference in addition to tip type and hardness. Measuring max draw you can get with any cue/tip can only truly be determined if you’re willing to test the limits of how much you can draw the cue ball before regularly miscuing. Most of us are not real comfortable getting to this threshold of miscues - I know I’m not. Additionally, our stroke on one day may just allow more draw comfortably than on another day, just like we see the shots and play better on some days than others.