Changing to a one piece break tip/ferrule on a Stinger

L

lvlss42190

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a McDermott Stinger model NG01

There's a local repairman who deals the G10 tip/ferrule combo and I love them, interested in having one put onto my cue but he says he'll have to take the shaft down from 13.25 to 13mm which I'm fine with but, it seems as if it has some sort of core I don't know if it's phenolic or what but the McD website mentions a stinger tenon that runs down the shaft

Just want to be sure that shaving a little off won't ruin the shaft,

so what do you think?
 
stinger

the stinger tip is phenolic and has a tenon about 5in. long that runs back thru the ferrule and into the shaft.the phenolic is all one piece,most just cut the tip off flush with the ferrule and install a different tip.
 
Does the installer say why he has to reduce the dia. of the shaft (from 13.25 to 13mm)???
You may be fine with that now because you want the G-10, why I don't know.
The result will be a weaker shaft and a less stiff shaft. Forget your warranty.
It sounds as though the installer wants to modify YOUR shaft to accommodate HIS tip/ferrule.
This is where you might think about a 2nd opinion.

Actually, the stated dia. of the Stinger shaft is 13.5mm according to the Seybert's website.
That and as has been stated here, the tip is already phenolic. What do you hope to gain??
My advise to you would be to leave the cue alone and learn how to use the cue you have.
FYI, G-10 is woven glass. You wouldn't be allowed on my table.

KJ
 
For some reason 13.25 is stuck in my head, it may be 13.5, Yes I do have the phenolic tip, a friend of mine on my league team has a g10 tip on his break cue that I really like, I've used it a hand full of times and there is quite a difference between the two. With the current set up I make a ball about 70% of the time on an 8 ball rack, with his set up I was averaging 2-3 per rack for the time I was using it.

As for why he wants to turn the shaft down I'm not 100% sure, I believe the assumption he wants to fit my shaft to his tip is probably accurate as I don't know what G10 rods come in as far as range of sizes but in my experience (although it's not much) anything larger than 13mm is relatively uncommon.
 
KJ Cues said:
FYI, G-10 is woven glass. You wouldn't be allowed on my table.

KJ
Click to expand...

I know what G10 is, I've used it on my personal table and I haven't had any ill effects. I play on an old bar table converted to drop pockets. It's far from the nicest set up in the world but I do have 2 younger siblings who have friends who use the table as well so it's hard to keep it in good condition with teenagers running around. the balls are dirty the felt occasionally gets marked up but it's a surface to play on. So I think the least of my concerns is what a tip might do to the table.
 
lvlss42190 said:
I know what G10 is, I've used it on my personal table and I haven't had any ill effects. I play on an old bar table converted to drop pockets. It's far from the nicest set up in the world but I do have 2 younger siblings who have friends who use the table as well so it's hard to keep it in good condition with teenagers running around. the balls are dirty the felt occasionally gets marked up but it's a surface to play on. So I think the least of my concerns is what a tip might do to the table.
Click to expand...

What's your cueball look like? The reason phenolic and G-10 tips were banned in BCA for a while was that they caused nicks and pock marks in the cue balls. I believe that ban has been rescinded subject to room owner policies. KJ is the room owner of bis table.
It was not an issue of table damage to the best of my knowledge.

Gary
 
GBCues said:
What's your cueball look like? The reason phenolic and G-10 tips were banned in BCA for a while was that they caused nicks and pock marks in the cue balls. I believe that ban has been rescinded subject to room owner policies. KJ is the room owner of bis table.
It was not an issue of table damage to the best of my knowledge.

Gary
Click to expand...

I've never heard of a phenolic tip doing any harm to a cue ball. I am aware of the BCA ruling though. All the places near me don't have a problem with phenolic and only 1 has ruled agains G10 break cues, but they do allow it on a jump cue.

My personal cue ball has had more issues than a g10 tip hitting it as it's seen the concrete floor a good number of times thanks to my younger siblings and myself on a rare occasion.

I did make a note to look at the cue all at the bar I play out of when playing with my team mates g10 breaker, it make an awful chalk mark but it wiped right off and I noticed no ill effects from 5 or so games. In the long term it might do some damage by what others say but from my experience thus far it's not an issue as the equipment isn't pristine by any means.
 
Well, my input on G10 is that indeed it does make you break harder, but I have experienced it at first hand that I get nasty scratches with it on my pool table. See, when I break, I have the tendancy to break my shaft onto the cloth like you pro's also do. With most phenolic, I don't get issues. But G10 put nasty scratch marks.
My advice is, if you can avoid using G10, then avoid it. For some the leather break tip is the way to go. I would advise on that.
Also, making more or less balls on the break... can be a tip thing but there are more factors at hand. Maybe your friend's break cue just has a different weight which works out better for you to get more action into the rack when smashing it.
Just give a try to change the weight a bit on your stick, see what happens. If it doesn't help, then go about changing the tip... A more table friendly tip is the picone white diamond. You can get that one in 14mm, it's not as hard as G10, but still very hard and it gives a great control on the cueball.
 
I have never actually seen someone touch their tip to the felt on a break aside from someone who gets paid a hell of a lot more than i do to play the game.

Not to say that it's a bad thing, but I never really understood the point of it. I usually just hit center ball and everything blows up pretty nicely sometimes making balls sometimes not.


As far as my friend's break cue vs my own yes it is possible it's a weight difference but I have played around with the weight on my own and I'm having the best results between 19 and 20 ounces. People say that lighter can get the cue moving faster thus allowing the cue ball to accelerate faster blah blah blah but I'm a bigger guy and the 19-20 works. I'm not sure what he's breaking with, to be honest it looks just like some cheap sneaky with a g10 slapped on the end of it.
 
Well, I can only say off topic, that I touch the felt as a part of my follow through. You can hit the ball center and still have a huge follow through.
But well, beyond that, I can only tell you to try some white diamond...
 
I would just leave it as is since it is a special ferrule and tip combination already. Jerry had a pat. on the tip/ferrule and sold to McDermot. If you don't like how it breaks sell it and go buy some thing that you like. Find one that already has the G10 tip/ferrule as there are a few cue makers that offer this option.
 
8 ball break

lvlss42190 said:
For some reason 13.25 is stuck in my head, it may be 13.5, Yes I do have the phenolic tip, a friend of mine on my league team has a g10 tip on his break cue that I really like, I've used it a hand full of times and there is quite a difference between the two. With the current set up I make a ball about 70% of the time on an 8 ball rack, with his set up I was averaging 2-3 per rack for the time I was using it.

As for why he wants to turn the shaft down I'm not 100% sure, I believe the assumption he wants to fit my shaft to his tip is probably accurate as I don't know what G10 rods come in as far as range of sizes but in my experience (although it's not much) anything larger than 13mm is relatively uncommon.
Click to expand...


Sorry but if you are going after a 8 ball break , usally you break (soft) and hit the 2nd or 3 rd ball back.

MMike
 
I have Stinger also

...and I can tell you why I decided to change the Stinger tip. After having the cue less than a month, I literally broke the Stinger tip in half during a break. Half of the tip stuck to the ferrule, and the other half literally disappeared. It took me 5 minutes of crawling on the floor to find the other half. After the phenolic Stinger tip broke, I had a local repairman shave the ferrule flat and install a Barringer Phenolic tip. He swears by them, and says he never had one pop off. After less than 2 weeks, it too popped off, but at least it didn't break in half. I went for a Water Buffalo tip just for BCA breaking after that, and kept it that way until I decided to have a 1-piece phenolic ferrule/tip combo put on because I mostly play VNEA anyways, and phenolic is still legal in VNEA. Now my Stinger is technically no longer a Stinger, but with a 1-piece phenolic it breaks like a stick of dynamite and it jumps better than almost anything I have ever seen. I am very happy with it. I have a "measles" cue ball and just from my regular breaks with a 1-piece phenolic I have several little "circle-cracks" in the cue ball that I can only assume come from my breaks. If G-10 is harder than Phenolic then I honestly cannot recommend it for anything.

Jim Notestine
 
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