Checking your table for level

OTLB said:
what do you mean a square, my blocks are square,

to calibrate levels the surface should be flat, I know it doesn't matter if the surface isn't level when you put the level on it only that it has to read the same way both ways but any high spot in a testing surface must be avoided. where are you going to get a better surface to rotate on than something thats almost perfectly flat.

Another way to check for level is like how cooks can tell if their stoves are off.
Click to expand...
You don't have to have the level reading level in order to calibrate it. Pick a line on the level where the bubble touches, turn it around and if it's calibrated...the bubble will read on the same line, if not then adjust as needed. A square is used to turn the level around 180 degrees in the same spot as it was before in order to give you a consistent spot to check the level from again;) but the level does NOT have to be on a dead level surface....as much as you claim to know, I thought you'd have known this:rolleyes:

Glen
 
Calibrating

. Place a carpenter square on the playing surface of the pool table.
2. Place the level at the inside corner of the carpenters square snugly.
3. Rotate the level and carpenters square in a circle until the level bubble reads center.
4. Holding the square so as to not move it, rotate the level 180 degrees and place back in the inside corner of the carpenters square.
5. If the bubble no longer reads center, look at the bubble and determine if its going away from the leveling nuts or toward them.
6. For example: after rotating the level, it now reads 4 lines out, which at .005 thousands of an inch per line, that's a .020 thousand of an inch elevation increase/decrease per foot of elevation.
7. If the bubble is going away from the leveling nuts, then slightly loosen the top nut, then tighten the bottom nut the same amount. If the bubble is going towards the leveling nuts, then do the opposite.
8. Only adjust the bubble by half of the distance showing out of level, Once you've done this, return the level to the carpenter square, turning it again in a circle until reaching level again, then reverse the level once again checking for the same dead center bubble.
9. If still off, then repeat steps 7 and 8 until there is no deflection of the bubble from one direction to the other.
10. Once the level reads the same in both directions you are done.
11. Keep in mind that temperature effects the size of the bubble, but not its ability to find center level.
 
I didn?t say you had to have the level on a level surface only a flat one, your just repeating what I said already.

If there is anyone in this forum that thinks the best way to calibrate a level is on a surface that?s not flat go ahead.

So if everyone agrees that you should then why, why would you not want one that was like a machined block with a high tolerance?

I also understand now how you are using your square,. Since you clarified yourself.

Any frame of reference that maintains the same footprint does the same thing. Ie putting the level in the corner of a machined block, spin it around. Also since levels are not exactly the same on both sides when you turn them around why wouldn?t you want them on a surface you know is very flat and controlled just like the bottom of the level.

On some of the best levels all you have to do is turn a screw to level them which is also a nice benefit in having them.

2 15's @ .0005 1 18 @ .0005 and one more than 28 inches at .0003 of course I have doubles. Like the post of a nice guy gave me when I first started in here I will keep you in suspense on who makes them. I also stated in here I don't or claim to know everything.

I could if I wanted go into a pool room with the large level and quickly adjust GC's etc with it, its a snap. Small levels are good for finding ups and downs and I have a digital level that works as well as any level I have. When I level a table I try to achieve the best overall level of it to a macro basis. Start with macro, tune to micro and back to macro to make sure. Now I am going to play pool for the rest of the day.

My son goes to college. They say he can't use the books from the last year in the course because they are out of date, I wonder why?
 
Last edited:
levels

I did not think i had to clarify myself to a Master mechanic. As you have signd your other post. All Masters should already know this. You seem to know all other off the wall questions. When is the master going to show me those slates, without fillers? Also i know where you can stick all those ball bearings. Save yourself alot of time and pull one of your magic tricks and disapear.
Ron
 
LCCS said:
I did not think i had to clarify myself to a Master mechanic. As you have signd your other post. All Masters should already know this. You seem to know all other off the wall questions. When is the master going to show me those slates, without fillers? Also i know where you can stick all those ball bearings. Save yourself alot of time and pull one of your magic tricks and disapear.
Ron[/QUOte

FINALLY! Somebody said it!! For post of the month i will send you 250 dollars in vcash and start a birthday thread for you!!! HAHAHAHA
Click to expand...
 
you know you just can't handle the fact that there just might be anyone else that might know anything. Have you ever had any other occupation besides this?
 
Maybe you want to talk about cloth. I was a Plant manager at a thread factory and have worked in the textile business. Can you tell me what TPI means??? From my first post in here you have been on my ass, you private message me and ask me what kind of glue I use on bar tables so other s can't see? I will be glad to disappear this is a waste of my time.
 
OTLB said:
Maybe you want to talk about cloth. I was a Plant manager at a thread factory and have worked in the textile business. Can you tell me what TPI means??? From my first post in here you have been on my ass, you private message me and ask me what kind of glue I use on bar tables so other s can't see? I will be glad to disappear this is a waste of my time.
Click to expand...
Everyone needs to take their fingers off the keyboard and take a deep breath. We are all professionals. Some know more than others. I spend countless hours online trying to learn from this forum and from other places on the internet. I have become friends with other mechanics on here which I am grateful for. It is not a pissing contest here. Everyone has there way of doing whatever job it might be. The goal I thought was to share ideas and experiences. Hopefully everyone can learn a little something from here. Just my two-cents.:duck:
 
OTLB said:
Maybe you want to talk about cloth. I was a Plant manager at a thread factory and have worked in the textile business. Can you tell me what TPI means??? From my first post in here you have been on my ass, you private message me and ask me what kind of glue I use on bar tables so other s can't see? I will be glad to disappear this is a waste of my time.
Click to expand...
Twist per inch??? How did i do??
 
very good, this is why the tensile strength and elongation of cloth like simonis makes it so good, I'm not trying to tell you anything you may already know but what others might not. Thats why cloth really can't be overstretched, at some point the threads would fail and unwind. Although there are ways to stretch more than normal.
 
yeap thats what I use and it works fine, and that was for working on bar tables which I also said i don't do anymore becausue there isn't enough money in it for me.
 
Last edited:
I also said I got some from Conte's and in another posting I mentioned =how helpful he was to me when I started in this business.
 
OTLB said:
I also said I got some from Conte's and in another posting I mentioned =how helpful he was to me when I started in this business.
Click to expand...
You may not be aware of this being new to the forum. For all businesses
we have listing of mechanics across the country. It is totally free! It is located as a sticky on the mechanic main page. We are all there!
 
please don't take this the wrong way but I have enough business. I love working on tables(old ones really, antique restorations etc) but if it turns into a real job I don't think I will love it anymore.
 
OTLB said:
Thats why cloth really can't be overstretched, at some point the threads would fail and unwind. Although there are ways to stretch more than normal.
Click to expand...

This is a contradictory statement. At one point you're saying cloth CAN'T be over stretched, then at the same time you're stating to much stretch the cloth threads would fail and unwind. In 25 years of installing bed cloths on slates as tight as I can, I have yet to see this "fail and unwind" situation you're talking about, and I dare say...I install bed cloths tighter than anyone else does...and have for 25 years;)

Glen
 
9 ft Dynamo, yes your right it would take too much strength but I didn't say I saw it either only what is the dif? I roll the glue on the side of the slate. So if you put cloth on, you mean 5 minutes later no one can come up, loosen it and pull it tighter and staple it? And if they were too spray the cloth with a mist and pull it tigher after they loosened it that wouldn't work?
 
LCCS said:
Pool tables should always be setup using machinist levels and not carpenters levels.
Well i think you learned something. So the post worked. No harm done. If you want to say something on here, you better clarify what you use it for unless you want somebody to tell you what it should be used for. I am sorry, but i take the billiard industry very seriously and i have my own opinion. Now that is what this forum is about.
Thanks, Ron
Click to expand...

Sorry for following your advice
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top