Checking your table for level

OTLB

OTLB

Banned
A cool way to see if your table is level is to get a precision ground machine block. I have one 10 inches square and precision ground to less than .001 on both sides. Place it anywhere on your table and then put a high tolerance ball bearing on it in the center. If the ball rolls your table is off.

Pool tables should always be setup using machinist levels and not carpenters levels.
 
levels

I disagree about carpenter levels. A carpenter level is a handy tool, if it is used properly. And i am not saying to use it as a level. The installers know what i mean, now can you tell me what they are used for?
 
Carpenter levels are called carpenter levels because they are used by carpenters who want things very close but not like the accuracy you get with a machinist level. Thats why they call them machinist levels. Two different skill sets with two different results. A carpenter level is way too long. The slate could be like the grand canyon underneath and still look level. If you place a dollar bill under a carpenter level the bubble won't move, if you do that under a good machinist level the bubble will move a 1/2 inch.

You can use them for rough leveling but a laser is way better

A straight edge is great, I agree

I thought this was a forum to share ideas not a contest on who knows the most.

Being a pool table mechanic is Not being like a doctor and even if it was aren't there lots of doctors, I think the more we share the better, if you think you know everything you know nothing
 
Last edited:
LCCS said:
I disagree about carpenter levels. A carpenter level is a handy tool, if it is used properly. And i am not saying to use it as a level. The installers know what i mean, now can you tell me what they are used for?
Click to expand...

I love my 6ft carpenters level....(i mean straight edge):p .A tool all mechanics should have. Throw the machinist level on top when leveling the base frame.
 
LCCS said:
I disagree about carpenter levels. A carpenter level is a handy tool, if it is used properly. And i am not saying to use it as a level. The installers know what i mean, now can you tell me what they are used for?
Click to expand...
can be used as a straight edge to make sure the rails are straight
did i win:thumbup: lol
scott
 
thats very true good point, I use a large square in the corners that is built up to the proper cushion nose height with 2 pieces of wood screwed to it underneath. When you have all 4 corners square the rails are usually perfect. Many times attention to end rails is lacking from what I have seen.
 
level

Hey, Pat you were not suppose to let the cat out of the bag and let these guy's complain about it for a while longer. I love it when somebody brings up something and does not know what it is used for, in billiard related items. I use a 6 foot and two four foot carpenters levels. And i also use six staretts on top of the carpenter levels. If you look back at some of Glens pictures, that is exactly how he has it set up. No harm done, Pat. I am glad we got this cleared up.
Thanks, Ron
 
otlb

Pool tables should always be setup using machinist levels and not carpenters levels.
Well i think you learned something. So the post worked. No harm done. If you want to say something on here, you better clarify what you use it for unless you want somebody to tell you what it should be used for. I am sorry, but i take the billiard industry very seriously and i have my own opinion. Now that is what this forum is about.
Thanks, Ron
 
6 foot levels are too short on a 9 ft table, you should use 8 ft ones as they give you a better picture. I use 8, 6 and 4 in combination with my 10 machinist levels depending on the table but if you don't have a 8ft level I guess you can make do with a 6.

When I set up heated billiard tables and snooker tables 8ft levels are very helpful.
 
levels

otlb. Why all the sudden the change in the post. The first post, you said you should use machinist levels, now you are saying you should use carpenter and machinist levels. So i am curious what size carpenter level you use on a ten foot snooker table. Look we can go on and on about levels and a million other things. You stated that carpenter levels should not be used and i proved you wrong and that is the bottom line. I am glad i changed your mind and i hope you find carpenter levels helpful. I am not going to keep posting on this. I proved my point and everybody has there own opinion.
Thanks, Ron
 
My point was that to level a table a machinist level should be used and that was the best way. I don't know any mechanics that use a carpenter level except for rough leveling and I don't consider that leveling. My point was that you should use a machinist level and your right maybe I should have made it clearer.

I usually work on real snooker tables that are 12 feet long. Now I will keep you in suspense on how that is done. Maybe you could take 2 6 foot levels and put a 8 foot level on top of those and use feeler guages. I have gone to England and watched masters set them up, have you?

To say that you have proved me wrong is out of line. I think its clear what you proved.
 
I think I can

Golly, I bet if I hang out in the mechanic's section long enough andd try really hard, I could learn how to put a pool table together!:D
 
OTLB said:
I usually work on real snooker tables that are 12 feet long. Now I will keep you in suspense on how that is done. Maybe you could take 2 6 foot levels and put a 8 foot level on top of those and use feeler guages. I have gone to England and watched masters set them up, have you?
Click to expand...

I never went to england but i have installed a (just 1) 6X12 snooker table.
it was a AMF Playmaster solid maple 8 legged beast with 1 1/2 inch
slate (5 pcs at around 300lbs a piece)glad it went into a basement.
and it went into a home not a business......
i think it was like a $10,000.00 dollar table and god what a view looking down that thing with miles of felt......
scott
 
Another nice thing you can use the blocks for is calibrating your levels on them if you have more than one. It doesn't matter if there not exactly the same either.
 
what do you mean a square, my blocks are square,

to calibrate levels the surface should be flat, I know it doesn't matter if the surface isn't level when you put the level on it only that it has to read the same way both ways but any high spot in a testing surface must be avoided. where are you going to get a better surface to rotate on than something thats almost perfectly flat.

Another way to check for level is like how cooks can tell if their stoves are off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top