Cleaning Cue - Again

clueless

kokopuffs said:
<<Do not use any kind of abrasive materials on your shafts.

Listen now, or pay later.
blud>>


Blud, does your warning about abrasives include NOT using the CUE SMOOTH papers that I mentioned?
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Hi Koko, Haven;t heard from you in a while.
I know nothing about this CUE SMOOTH, your talking about.

What's it made of and how smooth is it? Any thing that's made to smooth out any surface, must have some sort of grit to it, even if it's smooth feeling to the touch. This in time, will reduce the dia., of the shaft, if not done properly..

When I clean shafts on my machine, I use 220 grit paper to just break the surface of dirt, chalk, and sweat, which is sealed in over time, on the shaft. Then apply my juice, [secret stuff] and polish up with 600 paper. I do not reduce the size of the shafts, with my method. Some times I also burnish/polish, with leather at a high turning speed.

Some guys use 2000 grit paper to smooth out there shafts. DON'T WORK. All they are doing is rubbing in the dirt, chalk and sweat into the shaft. It gets smooth for a while, but never gets clean.
blud
 
Those papers are in the range of 1000 - 6000 grit and the papers themselves are made of some sort of plastic. My procedure is to wipe the shaft with a damp cloth followed by using those papers and then finally burnishing with leather.
 
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to me the 3 most important things about a cue are a great tip, i prefer a triangle with a red fibre backing, a great balance, i prefer 17 oz. or 19, and a very very clean slippery smooth shaft. here's how i maintain my shaft, where you could hardly hold onto it, cause it's so slippery!!!!!!!!! start by useing Q-clean, this stuff removes ALL grime, dirt, chalk, gook,oils, and ill unwanted stuff. then i apply #400 sandpaper, followed by # 600 sandpaper, what this does, is it makes the surface, smooth as a baby's ass, while drying it out, people will say, don't use #400, it will ruin the shaft, to that i say, not true, just don't use it everyday! and to finish my shaft off (pardon my expression) i use Q-slick, this stuff, will make the cue fly out of your hands, if your not carefull!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it works that well! very soon, i will be adding to my collection and purchasing Q-glide and Q-smooth, i'm sure they will also, be my favorites. when at the pool hall, after 2 hours or so, i wash my hands thouroughly, and apply a warm wet paper towel, and then a dry paper towel, this will bring back the true slide, and beauty of the hard maple wood, thru your bridge fingers.
 
Q-Clean® is simply SoftScrub® at a much higher price. It contains an abrasive and bleach, both are ingredients to avoid on wood. If you have excess money to burn, by all means run out and buy these products... :(
600 grit is bad enough, but 400 grit sandpaper is extremely abrasive. Again, if you have money to burn, sand away on your shaft... :(

Troy
THE SILENCER said:
to me the 3 most important things about a cue are a great tip, i prefer a triangle with a red fibre backing, a great balance, i prefer 17 oz. or 19, and a very very clean slippery smooth shaft. here's how i maintain my shaft, where you could hardly hold onto it, cause it's so slippery!!!!!!!!! start by useing Q-clean, this stuff removes ALL grime, dirt, chalk, gook,oils, and ill unwanted stuff. then i apply #400 sandpaper, followed by # 600 sandpaper, what this does, is it makes the surface, smooth as a baby's ass, while drying it out, people will say, don't use #400, it will ruin the shaft, to that i say, not true, just don't use it everyday! and to finish my shaft off (pardon my expression) i use Q-slick, this stuff, will make the cue fly out of your hands, if your not carefull!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it works that well! very soon, i will be adding to my collection and purchasing Q-glide and Q-smooth, i'm sure they will also, be my favorites. when at the pool hall, after 2 hours or so, i wash my hands thouroughly, and apply a warm wet paper towel, and then a dry paper towel, this will bring back the true slide, and beauty of the hard maple wood, thru your bridge fingers.
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Okay, where does one purchase Soft Scrub? At Target or Kmart? Just curious. I guess that I'll throw away my QClean and stick with Shark Oil, QSmooth and QSlick.
 
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Dang it, I've been using Soft Scrub on my shaft (pool cue shaft for you sicko's), for about 3 years, probably once a week (on the advice of the local pool store guy). I've never noticed any problem with the shaft, but I've never measured it either. I wear a glove so the slickness of the shaft is not all that important to me. I think I'll give Blud's method a try.

Blud, what do you do if the shaft is really dirty (though I assume you try not to let it get that way)?
 
denaturalized alcohol is what i use. It's pure alcohol instead of isopropyl which is most times about 80% water. The best thing to do would use a cleaner that contains NO water to avoid any chance of raising the grain on your shaft. I've been using it forever and it works great. Cleans ferrules great too.
 
clean

Williebetmore said:
Dang it, I've been using Soft Scrub on my shaft (pool cue shaft for you sicko's), for about 3 years, probably once a week (on the advice of the local pool store guy). I've never noticed any problem with the shaft, but I've never measured it either. I wear a glove so the slickness of the shaft is not all that important to me. I think I'll give Blud's method a try.

Blud, what do you do if the shaft is really dirty (though I assume you try not to let it get that way)?
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Clean it with some laquer thinner.
Then follow my eariler instructions.
blud
 
blud said:
Clean it with some laquer thinner.
Then follow my eariler instructions.
blud
Click to expand...

Blud,
I have been using your method for 2 days, unbelieveably better than the once a week soft scrub, the shaft is very smooth - I could get used to that (I'm fairly used to a somewhat "sticky" shaft). It still makes me a little nervous putting water on the wood (though I guess trees grow outdoors).
Thanks.
 
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