clear coat for cues

S

Soon2bqmaker

New member
Hello Everyone...great chatroom here....

Of the automotive type finishes, I was wondering what brands people had the most success using and how you recommend using it. I know there are lacquers and urethane types and you do not have to sand between coats of the urethane style but do you guys sand with this style anyways??? Also wondering if there is best brand...Dupont or whatever....

Any experience with the UV finished would be appreciated too....do you wetsand after clear coating with the uv or is it too hard???

Thanks,
Brian
 
Soon2bqmaker said:
Hello Everyone...great chatroom here....

Of the automotive type finishes, I was wondering what brands people had the most success using and how you recommend using it. I know there are lacquers and urethane types and you do not have to sand between coats of the urethane style but do you guys sand with this style anyways??? Also wondering if there is best brand...Dupont or whatever....

Any experience with the UV finished would be appreciated too....do you wetsand after clear coating with the uv or is it too hard???

Thanks,
Brian
Click to expand...


CHECK YOUR PM...JER
 
Soon2bqmaker said:
Hello Everyone...great chatroom here....

Of the automotive type finishes, I was wondering what brands people had the most success using and how you recommend using it. I know there are lacquers and urethane types and you do not have to sand between coats of the urethane style but do you guys sand with this style anyways??? Also wondering if there is best brand...Dupont or whatever....

Any experience with the UV finished would be appreciated too....do you wetsand after clear coating with the uv or is it too hard???

Thanks,
Brian
Click to expand...
To be honest with you, I use UV finish now, but before I tried all the Dupont and High end finish, but I never had any luck with them. I used Napa Auto Clear coat, their cheapest finish, and worked great...Everyone told me Dupont 7800 I think, but never cured for me...Should get you started...
 
I use PPG DC3000 over a base coat of epoxy. I built a box to hang the cues in between coats that has 2 heat lamps mounted in it. after the final coat I let them hang in the box for 45-60 minates and the cues are dry enough to handle.
Chris
 
Thanks for your responses.
I seem to be getting some fisheying, that was the reason for my initial post.
Does anyone know if I need to sand off all of the finish and restart or other possible reasons for the problems with the fisheyes??
Brian
 
fish-eyeing

What kind of filter are you using on your air line? I'm going to assume you are already blowing out the condensation and the air hose regularly. Devilbis makes some excellent oil and moisture filters for those lines, solved a similiar problem for me. Some are kinda pricey though.

Michael
 
I have a "FinishLine" filter.....with the UV type finishes...are you guys just spraying it on thick...then curing under the UV lamp or is it a multiple coat type of product, sanding between coats, then re-applying???
Brian
 
>Stewart-McDonald Guitar Shop Supply,www.stewmac.com, has books and all kinds of stuff available for finishing,glues,or whatever. The similarities outweigh the differences,seeing as how both cuemakers and luthiers are basically spraying or otherwise applying finish to wood. Even though guitars and cues are so dissimilar shape-wise,surely there is something to be learned. These guys are really on top of the game when it comes to updates on products,and new technologies,several of which they have innovated. Good people to do business with too,and very knowledgable. Tommy D.
 
I use the Dupont G2 4700s, Great Clear. Been shooting cars for years now. only been shootin cues for a couple years but it works great. As for your fisheyes. Need to really make sure to keep stuff like WD 40 out of your shop / paint area. Never shoot anything like that around your painting equipement. silicones are really bad at causing fisheyes. Make sure you get a good dryer to run your compressor into. Sharpe makes a nice one for around 50.00. I would reccomend some good gun cleaner too. to really clean your gun every month or so. A nice 'hot' thinner to clean your gun after every use is good. I use a sagola mini and a sata mini. I Wouldn't personally settle for less. you want good results, Buy a good gun. I usually use a good surface prep as well, wipe down your substrate with a cloth with acetone follow it with a dry cloth. You can get even better surface prep from your local paint supplier. You can use other stuff but a lot of it is 'greasy' ie, mineral spirits I think is way to greasy. Never let that stuff evaporate on it's own. Always wipe it off with a dry cloth. use a tack cloth before you shoot. I tend to stay away from super smoothing your surface as well, looks nice but not so good on adheasion. Lots of guys use 800 grits, I do sometimes as well. i like to use 600 before I shoot most of the time. You will get better adheasion. Most cars get sanded with 360 to 400 before you shoot. You can hide those scratches pretty easily with a base coat. use a good finish epoxy like bob smith for an under coat. I like it for a lot of plastics as most auto clear will chip off pretty easily but an epoxy will tend to hold up better. You can spray over it to with after a nice block sanding. Don't even try to paint delrin, won't stick. My 2 cents
 
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Matthys said:
I use the Dupont G2 4700s, Great Clear. Been shooting cars for years now. only been shootin cues for a couple years but it works great. As for your fisheyes. Need to really make sure to keep stuff like WD 40 out of your shop / paint area. Never shoot anything like that around your painting equipement. silicones are really bad at causing fisheyes. Make sure you get a good dryer to run your compressor into. Sharpe makes a nice one for around 50.00. I would reccomend some good gun cleaner too. to really clean your gun every month or so. A nice 'hot' thinner to clean your gun after every use is good. I use a sagola mini and a sata mini. I Wouldn't personally settle for less. you want good results, Buy a good gun. I usually use a good surface prep as well, wipe down your substrate with a cloth with acetone follow it with a dry cloth. You can get even better surface prep from your local paint supplier. You can use other stuff but a lot of it is 'greasy' ie, mineral spirits I think is way to greasy. Never let that stuff evaporate on it's own. Always wipe it off with a dry cloth. use a tack cloth before you shoot. I tend to stay away from super smoothing your surface as well, looks nice but not so good on adheasion. Lots of guys use 800 grits, I do sometimes as well. i like to use 600 before I shoot most of the time. You will get better adheasion. Most cars get sanded with 360 to 400 before you shoot. You can hide those scratches pretty easily with a base coat. use a good finish epoxy like bob smith for an under coat. I like it for a lot of plastics as most auto clear will chip off pretty easily but an epoxy will tend to hold up better. You can spray over it to with after a nice block sanding. Don't even try to paint delrin, won't stick. My 2 cents
Click to expand...
Your 2 cents are very helpful. To back up the WD-40 story, it definately is something that will damage the finish, but I could not believe it until I experienced it myself. Thanks for the info Cameron - Great post
 
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