Clear coat?

H

han

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hello folks,

Just curious (as usual)...

Which automotive clear is your preference and how many coats
do you apply?

I paint cars daily and have experimented with dozens of brands.
And after several thousands, i've chosen a clear that's very consistant,
high gloss, easy to buff and cost effective for most of my jobs.
 
han said:
Hello folks,

Just curious (as usual)...

Which automotive clear is your preference and how many coats
do you apply?

When this topic came up before, there was some differences of opinion, as to what "A COAT" consisted of, but here's my 2 cents worth.
I use DUPONT CHROMA CLEAR 7600S. I 1st seal with a shelac, thinned 4-1. I also spray my cues hanging. When I spray down then up, then down & up then down & up a 3rd time I consider that to be 6 coats. REGUARDLESS of what you call it, then I ROTATE the cue & repeat this procedure 6 times, til the whole cue is covered. I actually do the forearm, then the butt & the 6 coats at the handle area last. I let this set overnite & sand, 1st with the cue rotating in the lathe & then with the grain. After wipeing down with mineral sperits, I repeat the 6 coats & then SPOT IN, any deep grained areas. Let stand over nite, sand & polish. I know there is a lot of different ways, but that's the way I do it...JER
Click to expand...
 
han said:
Hello folks,

Just curious (as usual)...

Which automotive clear is your preference and how many coats
do you apply?

I paint cars daily and have experimented with dozens of brands.
And after several thousands, i've chosen a clear that's very consistant,
high gloss, easy to buff and cost effective for most of my jobs.
Click to expand...

Every cue maker has his own choice. Not being a body man, I experimented around with many different finishes and settled on Transtar which is a specialty clear auto finish not carried in many places. Since clear finish is all they make I figured it would adhere better to more types of sealers. DuPont and other producers usually say to use their own primers, colors and other chemicals and abrasives. There may be better stuff available but I've had such good luck with it being durable, shiney, easy to apply and extremely easy to rub out that I quit looking for something better. I also bought a U.V. system a few years ago and finishes from a couple of different companies but found it to be quick to put on but nearly impossible to rub out. I now do my finishes in three stages, One heavy coat of two part sealer which takes about a minute to dry followed by three to ten coats of U.V. sanded with 320 between coats and then followed with three coats of auto finish. This can all be done in one evening and then I rub out the next day. I usually do tree to five cues at a time.
Dick
 
I use the Transtar as well. very close to the 7500S but you can buy it in smaller containers (so you won't have to worrry about spoilage as much) and it actually flashes a bit quicker.
Mike
 
I'm not a cuemaker but have done auto painting so take this in that light.
McDermott has a LIFETIME warranty on their cues and use Henckle(sp?) paints and clear. This is a subsidiary of Dupont and the same paint used by Mercedes and other high dollar car manufacturers. I've also heard Southern paints out of Georgia make some DAMNED good paints and clears.

Terry
 
Dupont Chromaclear is excellent, but for about half the price
Limco LC4200 (by BASF) is just as good. Similar characteristics.
This is my daily clear for most larger projects. Around $85/gal with
activator. I do use Chromabase for all base coats but use different
brand clears depending on project.

Most clears are sprayed 2-3 coats as reccomended by the manufacturer.
But 6+ coats without issues is amazing. I make 1 pass and a 50% overlap
on the next, and this is considered by most automotive painters as 1 coat.
But sounds to me like 2 coats. :)

Transtar actually has lots of different lines. I use the Kwik Finish for
bumpers and small panels, dries (not cures) in under 3 hours. They changed
some of their formulas and improvements are noticable. Around $85/gal.

Tbeaux, Spies Heckler is premium stuff. Yet to try it but heard good things.
And i think you are refering to Southern Polyurethane Universal Clear.
It's the best clear i've tried so far. I really can't recomend anything better,
at any price. Around $200/gal, mix ratio 1:1 so you actually get 2 gallons.

It's always interesting how other craftsmen (regardless of field)
approach things and why certain methods work for him.

Thanks for the responses fellas. Learning lots.
 
Yep...Spies Hecker...that was the name. You asked about coats, I'm wondering about that too. McD says they use 6 coats but I wonder about that since I have seen clears pop from being too thick or put on without enough wet sanding in between coats.

Terry
 
Tbeaux said:
Yep...Spies Hecker...that was the name. You asked about coats, I'm wondering about that too. McD says they use 6 coats but I wonder about that since I have seen clears pop from being too thick or put on without enough wet sanding in between coats.

Terry
Click to expand...
I was at the McDermott factory recently. They told me they spray UV finish on 60 cues at a time, then they turn on the lamps and it cures in seconds. I asked if it was hard to buff. They said they do not buff them, they spray, turn on the lamps and what you see is the final product.

Tracy
 
RSB-Refugee said:
I was at the McDermott factory recently. They told me they spray UV finish on 60 cues at a time, then they turn on the lamps and it cures in seconds. I asked if it was hard to buff. They said they do not buff them, they spray, turn on the lamps and what you see is the final product.

Tracy
Click to expand...
You're right I've seen it. It is a room with a track mounted on the ceiling. There are hooks of some kind hanging from the track, where the cues are hung from. Then they start the track moving & there are spray nossels mounted around the room near the ceiling. As they make the oval trip around the room they are sprayed in a cloud of UV finish. The track stops & the lights come on...JER
 
Bcm

Not to disrespect anyone here. I know all of you are very knowledgable. I was just wondering what method Bryan Mordt uses. I have seen many cues from low end to high, and can't seem to keep my mouth from watering whenver I see BCM cues. The finish is outstanding. I love a bunch of other cues and thier finishes. But IMHO Mr. Mordt, you are at the top of a very short list to me. Hope to see you respond.

Tony
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
You're right I've seen it. It is a room with a track mounted on the ceiling. There are hooks of some kind hanging from the track, where the cues are hung from. Then they start the track moving & there are spray nossels mounted around the room near the ceiling. As they make the oval trip around the room they are sprayed in a cloud of UV finish. The track stops & the lights come on...JER
Click to expand...


When I worked at Dufferin, we had a similar system to McDermott's and it's pretty slick. The cue is given a negative ionic charge, the finish is given a positive charge and the two attract to each other. Makes the finish come out very even.
I can't tell you how the actual positive/negative charging thing works but I know the system was over a million bucks, definately designed for production.
Anyways, this is how it was explained to me by the head of production at Dufferin Cues.
Mike
 
Mystick Cue Fan said:
Not to disrespect anyone here. I know all of you are very knowledgable. I was just wondering what method Bryan Mordt uses. I have seen many cues from low end to high, and can't seem to keep my mouth from watering whenver I see BCM cues. The finish is outstanding. I love a bunch of other cues and thier finishes. But IMHO Mr. Mordt, you are at the top of a very short list to me. Hope to see you respond.

Tony
Click to expand...

I agree with you Tony. His finish is spectacular!!

Brian
 
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