Clear coating

B

bob_bushka

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am finishing my first cue and do not have spraying capabilities. My plan is to use 2 coats of cycroclyanate followed by 3 coats of Zpoxy Finishing Resin. Any feedback on this method or something better since I do not have Imron or UV?

thanks
 
If im under standing this your going to put the cyno on first then epoxy. If that is the case I belive your doing it donkey(A$$) backwards. Ive done the epoxy finish before and first you start with the 2 or 3 coats of epoxy and then finish with the cyno (Thin it has to be the thin). You could use the cyno first to seal the wood and then put the epoxy but it needs cyno over the epoxy. The epoxy will harden over time but it will always be alittle soft and the cyno forms a hard shell around it. There are a few videos out there that show what you are after as well. This has come up before if you do a search you will find what you are after. Make sure you have a good mask and a fan cyno is nasty stuff.

Good Luck and happy sanding :)
Dustin
 
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Bob, not having a spray set up is greatly limiting your finishing options.

I have found epoxy is just to soft and yellows over time.
Super Glue would most likely be your best finish ... if you can stand the fumes.

Finishing a cue is the part most people dont even think about when they set out to make a cue.
 
LosOsosCues said:
If im under standing this your going to put the cyno on first then epoxy. If that is the case I belive your doing it donkey(A$$) backwards. Ive done the epoxy finish before and first you start with the 2 or 3 coats of epoxy and then finish with the cyno (Thin it has to be the thin). You could use the cyno first to seal the wood and then put the epoxy but it needs cyno over the epoxy. The epoxy will harden over time but it will always be alittle soft and the cyno forms a hard shell around it. There are a few videos out there that show what you are after as well. This has come up before if you do a search you will find what you are after.

Good Luck and happy sanding :)
Dustin
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I understand what you are saying and I tried the cyno over epoxy but the cyno wanted to burn off the epoxy. Maybe it was too thick. It seems to me that the cyno just does not luster like the Zpoxy. This will be the first cue I sell so I really don't want issues with it, I am trying to avoid those, lol
 
2 - 3 coats of epoxy, sand smooth then approx. 8-12 coats of thin super glue. I get a shine equal to auto clear this way.
John
 
Epoxy first then several coats of super glue is better in my opinion. Or just use super glue with accelerator. If you have carbide sanding mandrels and back gear or a gear motor hooked to your lathe to turn it real slow for a few hours then I like the Cue Cote epoxy finish without super glue best myself and is what I use for butts and I use super glue for the joint end of the shafts.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
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cue-kote

i have used a lot of hightowers cue-kote works great for me. the superglue finish on top makes for a great hard finish, but be careful the fumes are toxic. believe me i know. i got an lung infection from the fumes and it took about 4 months for them to clear. this is no bs the fumes are dangerous. make sure you have plenty of ventilation and a fan blowing directly on you. i still use the ca finish ever now and then, but now i am very, very careful. good luck with your cue
 
cueman said:
Epoxy first then several coats of super glue is better in my opinion. Or just use super glue with accelerator. If you have carbide sanding mandrels and back gear or a gear motor hooked to your lathe to turn it real slow for a few hours then I like the Cue Cote epoxy finish without super glue best myself and is what I use for butts and I use super glue for the joint end of the shafts.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
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As a beginner, I am wondering about the sanding mandrels. I don't want to sound stupid, but what are they and where would I get them? And are they nessesary? Thanks,
Dave B
 
Dave38 said:
As a beginner, I am wondering about the sanding mandrels. I don't want to sound stupid, but what are they and where would I get them? And are they nessesary? Thanks,
Dave B
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They are like maintainence pins, but are sleeved with carbide so you can sand on them without removing the material from It too quickly and changing It's dia.. They also allow you to keep all Your joints the same diameter, which will allow You to match shafts much more easily, and keep the same joint diameters universally. For CA finish they are definatly a big help, as It's not as easy to crack the joints when using Ca, as It is with some other finishing materials. The best kind of carbide mandrels, also match the taper of Your cue. Some are made from hardened steel, but carbide is the best, altough they are more expensive.


Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
They are like maintainence pins, but are sleeved with carbide so you can sand on them without removing the material from It too quickly and changing It's dia.. They also allow you to keep all Your joints the same diameter, which will allow You to match shafts much more easily, and keep the same joint diameters universally. For CA finish they are definatly a big help, as It's not as easy to crack the joints when using Ca, as It is with some other finishing materials. The best kind of carbide mandrels, also match the taper of Your cue. Some are made from hardened steel, but carbide is the best, altough they are more expensive.


Greg
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Thanks Greg, Where would I find a set of those?
Dave
 
It's easiest when you have two sets. One size to sand down to and one set to bring your finish down to. Carbide ones that will last for some time without wearing out quickly are pretty expensive. They run from 200.00 to 500.00 per set, depending on where you get them. I made myself one set but decided to buy the second set as the hassle wasn't worth it. I got my second set from Tom up in Connecticut. He does very precise work. This is his web-site:

www.tnscues.com.

Dick

Mike, you beat me to it.
 
Dave38 said:
Thanks Greg, Where would I find a set of those?
Dave
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Your welcome Sir, Actually Tom from TNS is the best source I've heard of. Mike recomended him to Me some time ago, but I still only build a handfull a year, and have'nt decided on My standard joint type, so havent got a set yet. That Is who I would have do them though when I'm ready. I'm Still doing things the hard way unfortunately though. I like the idea of 2 sets, one for sanding size and the other for finish sanding.

Mike, I still have those bushings, I may just send them to Tom If He can make a set from them for Me, because the more I thought about It the less I like the idea of grinding and breathing that carbide dust in.


Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
Your welcome Sir, Actually Tom from TNS is the best source I've heard of. Mike recomended him to Me some time ago, but I still only build a handfull a year, and have'nt decided on My standard joint type, so havent got a set yet. That Is who I would have do them though when I'm ready. I'm Still doing things the hard way unfortunately though. I like the idea of 2 sets, one for sanding size and the other for finish sanding.

Mike, I still have those bushings, I may just send them to Tom If He can make a set from them for Me, because the more I thought about It the less I like the idea of grinding and breathing that carbide dust in.


Greg
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I made one set and it was a pain in the butt and still never saved but around 100.00. Your equipment must be extremely accurite and repeatable as you must set up and break down more than once to build them and the time spent making sure you get all of the carbide dust out of your equipment later is a real pain. Carbide dust, if left in place, will eat up your equipment very quickly.
 
If Tommy will make them reasonable it is certainly not worth your time to make them yourself.
 
rhncue said:
I made one set and it was a pain in the butt and still never saved but around 100.00. Your equipment must be extremely accurite and repeatable as you must set up and break down more than once to build them and the time spent making sure you get all of the carbide dust out of your equipment later is a real pain. Carbide dust, if left in place, will eat up your equipment very quickly.
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That's one that slipped right by me. I did'nt even think about the dust eating at the machine, but now that you mention it, carbide would be hard on It. That's another good reason to let someone else make them. I thought about making a set, but I aggree, hardly worth saving the little bit, when all said and done. Besides, from what I've heard he makes a really nice set of mandrels, and I've seen pics of his shop on the site I believe, his shop definatly seems well equiped.

Greg
 
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