Clearcoat

billl67

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Trying to get the strongest,clearest finish with a hobby airbrush,any suggestions.automotive trying to stay away from ca.
Thanks billl67
 
Trying to get the strongest,clearest finish with a hobby airbrush,any suggestions.automotive trying to stay away from ca.
Thanks billl67

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

I"m gonna say the universal clear is just awesome. You will be hard pressed to find anyone to say anything bad about it. Google it and you will see exactly what I mean. It has been used on 6 figure show cars.

If you buy a half gallon kit it costs less that a quart of Chroma activator.

You can get the OWNER of the company on the phone and he will help you set you gun up correctly.

I don't know how it would shoot through an airbrush.

It has 4 UV inhibitors.

Doesn't run easily.

However, do NOT use lacquer thinner on it. I KNOW you can get away with that with Chroma the next day, but not with this stuff. Whether or not you can after a couple days, I don't know. When I posted that LT took the finish off I got "why in the hell would you use lacquer thinner?".....

They have a support website as well.

I currently use an annest iwata lph80 with a 1mm tip, shooting around 18 psi and am very happy.
 
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

I"m gonna say the universal clear is just awesome. You will be hard pressed to find anyone to say anything bad about it. Google it and you will see exactly what I mean. It has been used on 6 figure show cars.

If you buy a half gallon kit it costs less that a quart of Chroma activator.

You can get the OWNER of the company on the phone and he will help you set you gun up correctly.

I don't know how it would shoot through an airbrush.

It has 4 UV inhibitors.

Doesn't run easily.

However, do NOT use lacquer thinner on it. I KNOW you can get away with that with Chroma the next day, but not with this stuff. Whether or not you can after a couple days, I don't know. When I posted that LT took the finish off I got "why in the hell would you use lacquer thinner?".....

They have a support website as well.

I currently use an annest iwata lph80 with a 1mm tip, shooting around 18 psi and am very happy.
Why you gotta do that ??? Come up with another super clear.:eek::thumbup:

Dupont Chroma and Deltron DC3000 prices are getting to be unreal.
There are a ton of good clears out there.
Some are just waaaaaay overpriced.

I'll try them when I run-out of what I have now .
What I got flows nice and does not run even if sprayed thick though.

And as always, the prep and base coat determines quality and longevity.

Bill, be safe . Get your self assisted air breathing apparatus.
Do not inhale acetone. Wear gloves when wiping down your pieces.
If you don't have a booth, don't even think of spraying.
Some just put a big fan behind them and spray away.

Two cuemakers died recently. Both from lung complications. Take a wild guess why.
Glad you are getting away from super glue.
 
(Quote)"Bill, be safe . Get your self assisted air breathing apparatus.
Do not inhale acetone. Wear gloves when wiping down your pieces.
If you don't have a booth, don't even think of spraying.
Some just put a big fan behind them and spray away.

Two cuemakers died recently. Both from lung complications. Take a wild guess why.
Glad you are getting away from super glue."

There is a paint and body shop here in town that the father never used a mask, Ever, when painting, suffered two heart attacks and died from lung failure. The Son, he isn't using a mask either, still no spray booth, just bays in the shop. He wheezes like a busted steam engine and hes only 48-49. If you are going to spray, please do it right.

Be safe.
 
Why you gotta do that ??? Come up with another super clear.:eek::thumbup:

Dupont Chroma and Deltron DC3000 prices are getting to be unreal.
There are a ton of good clears out there.
Some are just waaaaaay overpriced.

I'll try them when I run-out of what I have now .
What I got flows nice and does not run even if sprayed thick though.

And as always, the prep and base coat determines quality and longevity.

Bill, be safe . Get your self assisted air breathing apparatus.
Do not inhale acetone. Wear gloves when wiping down your pieces.
If you don't have a booth, don't even think of spraying.
Some just put a big fan behind them and spray away.

Two cuemakers died recently. Both from lung complications. Take a wild guess why.
Glad you are getting away from super glue.

78.00 shipped for a half gallon kit(They don't charge for shipping) to my door Joey and I have received both orders the very next day.
 
That sounds cheap enough to try .
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/tech sheets new/2013.2/Universal Clear 2013.pdf
1.4 tip ? 10-30 minutes between coats ?
I use 1.2 on mine and re-coat within 10 minutes ( dry to the touch ).

1.2 should be fine on your Sata. I use a 1.0. The owner of the company can be reached after hours and on weekends to help you get it set up properly. Try that with another company. I use a slower activator, but I suppose you could use fast..
 
here it is straight out of gun. right around 14 psi.
 

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Everyone thank you again,just to be clear I'm using a hobby airbrush

Those work. My late mentor used one for years. They have some drawbacks like needing more pressure and limited pattern control.
But, if the clear is thin ( he shot Chroma with some reducer ), you should be fine.
 
I'm almost positive Joey uses a Sata minijet.

I use an Anest Iwata lph80 that doesn't need very much air to atomize...

Yup.
Mini-Jet 3000. I have a lot of disposable cups to switch for now.
I have a cheaper Sharpe Finex too.
 
If you want to contact the President of the company and ask some questions, here is his number. He actually paints cars as well, so he has real experience using product.

Contact Barry, the President of SPI @ 404-307-9740 7 days a week even after normal business hours for your technical questions.
 
Wow, I was figuring that someday when I get to finishing a cue, I'd use Diamond Clear or a water based clear that didn't need sprayed. I thought spray equipment was considerably more expensive. I see on ebay you can buy the Iwata lph80 for $200. After reading a number of discussions on it, that seems like a real fair deal for a gun of that quality. What kind of compressor would I need to use that gun? I see that Randy uses only 14 psi and low cfm. Does that mean I could use a conventional compressor that puts out 6 cfm at 125 psi, and regulate down the pressure to 14 psi? Its not an oilless compressor, so would I need to filter the air also? Thanks
 
Wow, I was figuring that someday when I get to finishing a cue, I'd use Diamond Clear or a water based clear that didn't need sprayed. I thought spray equipment was considerably more expensive. I see on ebay you can buy the Iwata lph80 for $200. After reading a number of discussions on it, that seems like a real fair deal for a gun of that quality. What kind of compressor would I need to use that gun? I see that Randy uses only 14 psi and low cfm. Does that mean I could use a conventional compressor that puts out 6 cfm at 125 psi, and regulate down the pressure to 14 psi? Its not an oilless compressor, so would I need to filter the air also? Thanks

Yes you can. I have a coalescing filter at one of my air outputs and one of these before my gun. It is imperative not to get moisture or other contaminants in your airlines
 

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Thanks, Randy! I don't know what a coalescing filter is, but will study up on that. I assume that if you have that array of filters before your gun, you have a have a short hose (whip?) after that to your gun so you can move your gun freely. Can you give a link that discusses your filter array, and offers it for sale? Thanks
 
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