Yes
Trade 4 for 5 in your stretch pattern.
15, 16, 17, 18 are done before 13 and 14.
If you stretch and stick 13, 14 first, you're preventing the ability of stretching the cloth from corner to corner first, by only being able to stretch from the center to the corner. That means the center if the clothbis only stretched in length, and not side to side as well. Get your corner pocket grain of cloth pulled back and straight into each corner before you stretch for length. Then when you do stretch for length, all you need is a straight back pull, and it's much easier if you start that pull close to each corner pocket first, working your way to the center of the slate, you have more leverage that way.
Good, that make
Ok very good I understand very well, Thanks a lot for these precious details!
If you're talking about the end of the slate, the corners are only stretched towards the pocket to straighten the weave of the cloth, then stop at the stretch index line for end stretch. At first the 4 corner pockets are easy, then as you close of the first end stretch it gets a little harder, but when you go to the other end, and stretch that cloth, that can be a bitch!! That stretch right there will tell you if you need to take out and 1/8" inch of your side to side stretch, or if you feel you can stretch past your line on the second end, then go back and add an additional 1/8" stretch to your side to side to side stretch. That is how you dial the cloth in for perfect installs. But, that stretch index only works for that specific cloth, and that specific slate. Once that is a known number, then you can calculate the stretch for any size table with that specific cloth, by knowing how much per inch it will stretch!!!
We kind of butted heads a while back as I remember, but I'm here to help if anyone wants it, so I'm glad you're catching on buddy!!
Yes it was a question of levels I think, but I never doubted your knowledge that's for sure, let's not go back too far, I like how things are between us now!We kind of butted heads a while back as I remember, but I'm here to help if anyone wants it, so I'm glad you're catching on buddy!!
So when marking the short rails ends for stretch do you half the stretch index on each end or use full index to stretch end to end?
I also noticed in your Youtube video you anchored 13 and 14 before 15 16 and 17 18? You did go back and stretch 13 and 14 more though.
If your stretch side to side is 1 3/8" then both ends of the slate get the same 1 3/8" stretch. Think twice as long compared to side to side.
Watch it again, but watch the full recover of a Valley table. I changed up the stretch order on the ends of the slate because something I've done for almost 40 years I started realizing it wasn't as easy for newcomers. So, by stretching the 4 corner pockets first, it makes it much easier to achieve the same outcome, just easier.
Gotcha!
Good to know as I saw the same video on YouTube where this picture was taken from and I'm getting ready to move my table and put new cloth on it. I believe this was from one of your former students. I believe his name is Zach.
Please excuse the watermark. Just trying to do my part to help just a little and thanks for updating as I'm getting ready to do my table. Very much appreciated!
This will serve you better. Glen will concur, he now stretches the corners on the ends first.
The side stretch will feel a bit light, and the temptation to go more there than the ends should be resisted with Simonis. Unlike some cloths, it stretches the same in both directions, and you want it to be balanced. You know you have the right index when your end pulls are needing some muscle.
Another nice tip on a table with deep side pocket cuts is to close off your side pockets before you pull the ends. I find I can get away with a little less slack this way. Watch the grain in front of the pocket closely and pull it straight when you do this.
Pool tables are twice as long as they are wide. The reason the stretch index is the same on the 3 sides other than the anchor accounts for this.
