CNC speeds & feed for PVC

O

olsonsview

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I need to duplicate some Meucci rings for a friends cue, which look like they are made of plastic, possibly PVC, not thermoset? I tried using my normal speeds and feed that I program for linen phenolic and also wood slot rings, but for this job I am using some PVC tube. It sometimes works OK, cuts a perfect slot, and sometimes it melts and gouges. I know it is because of cutting debris that melts onto the bit and rides up. Anyone have a suggested router speed and feed I should use. Do I need dwell times inserted to allow more cooling? I want to cut a 1/8 inch wide by 1/8 inch deep slot. I used four passes to get to the full depth, with a 1/8 inch diameter cutter. Then a cleanup pass to either side of a couple thousanths to allow room for the paper phenolic strips. I never had problems with either wood or linen phenolic using this type of feed. Two air jets to either side of the cutter provide some cooling and cleanout.
Tried a similar program with a 1/16 inch cutter from precise bits as well, same results using a program to cut to the 1/8 inch wide slot. The 1/8 inch router bit has 2 straight flutes with plenty of relief for chips to leave the area of cut. I am using a cuemonster CNC with a Quiet Router mounted and turning a full 30K. My only idea at this point is to try a full speed cut in a single pass, full depth, give it dwell time to cool, then cleanup the sidewalls with a 0.002 cleaning cut. But maybe it is time to ask for advice before I burn up more material.
How slow/fast do you guys find you need to go for PVC or ABS? ANy ideas would be appreciated.
 
olsonsview said:
I need to duplicate some Meucci rings for a friends cue, which look like they are made of plastic, possibly PVC, not thermoset? I tried using my normal speeds and feed that I program for linen phenolic and also wood slot rings, but for this job I am using some PVC tube. It sometimes works OK, cuts a perfect slot, and sometimes it melts and gouges. I know it is because of cutting debris that melts onto the bit and rides up. Anyone have a suggested router speed and feed I should use. Do I need dwell times inserted to allow more cooling? I want to cut a 1/8 inch wide by 1/8 inch deep slot. I used four passes to get to the full depth, with a 1/8 inch diameter cutter. Then a cleanup pass to either side of a couple thousanths to allow room for the paper phenolic strips. I never had problems with either wood or linen phenolic using this type of feed. Two air jets to either side of the cutter provide some cooling and cleanout.
Tried a similar program with a 1/16 inch cutter from precise bits as well, same results using a program to cut to the 1/8 inch wide slot. The 1/8 inch router bit has 2 straight flutes with plenty of relief for chips to leave the area of cut. I am using a cuemonster CNC with a Quiet Router mounted and turning a full 30K. My only idea at this point is to try a full speed cut in a single pass, full depth, give it dwell time to cool, then cleanup the sidewalls with a 0.002 cleaning cut. But maybe it is time to ask for advice before I burn up more material.
How slow/fast do you guys find you need to go for PVC or ABS? ANy ideas would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

Hi,

I was having trouble with my wooden box rings scorching and my silver stitch rings getting too hot and melting the epoxy when parting. My friend Darrin Hill recommended that I use a bio degradable cutting fluid while parting. He was right on with that tip. I just put a few drops on the saw and then go in and out on a rapid travel on my cross slide. No overheating. On my silver stitch rings i load up juice in the curf because of the metal.

I bought a 16 oz bottle from Enco and I now use it on everything I cut with KJs carbide slitting saw set up. Phenolic, Juma, Wood, silver and anything else in rod or billet form. After I am done cutting I wipe them off, and lap sand then on my granite plate on 320 grit paper and sand the ID a little with 320. Ready for glue because there is no oil.

I am sure this will solve your problem.

I usually run my lathe in reverse at 750 RPM and my Rigid router at the slowest speed with in conventional saw cut rotation.

Good Luck,

Rick
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the advice

Most sent it privately to me. But there were good ideas in all. I did need to cut at maximum feed rate, and also slow the silent router way way down, less than 1/4 speed. It is a variable speed router so that is easy enough. I got clean smooth slots with a good fit.
So TY to Rick and all the others that sent me private suggestions, I will keep you all anonymous. I did try a lower spindle speed last night, but not as low as I needed to finally reach. I never tried the silent router at that slow of a spindle rpm before for inlays. Thanks Guys!
 
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