Common outside dementions on 7 and 8 foot tables?
- Thread starter Sleeperls
- Start date
7ft will work best.
thepoolacademy.com
Exact Room Size Requirements For Pool Tables (With Charts)
The factors you need to consider when finding the correct pool table room size to play and enjoy the space you have.
thepoolacademy.com
There is a decent one within 4 hour drive that's a bar box plus measuring 8foot2 x 54. With 5 foot all around even that feels tight against my bar no where else. Only issue would be when ball would be against the rail. Reason I was asking for real world dimensions.
I set it up with some chairs at 32 high. Luckily they are square so able to set the size up exactly.
I might just have to get a shorter cue if it's against the rail on that side. That is the 17 foot dimension side so I was surprised when I grabbed my 59 inch cue and back stroke hit the bar.
I set it up with some chairs at 32 high. Luckily they are square so able to set the size up exactly.
I might just have to get a shorter cue if it's against the rail on that side. That is the 17 foot dimension side so I was surprised when I grabbed my 59 inch cue and back stroke hit the bar.
The 9' room size in the chart linked above with a 58" cue stick allows 0 backswing if the cue ball is on the cushion. Here's the breakdown:
Recommended room width: 13'10 inches -- that's 166 inches
table width, nose to nose -- 50 inches
total from two noses to walls -- 116 inches
one side, rail nose to wall -- 58 inches
The suggested room size is totally broken. It is sales propaganda. It is useful to have because now you know not to do business with that website and/or company.
This chart is BS -- ignore it:
![CropperCapture[120].png](https://forums.azbilliards.com/attachments/croppercapture-120-png.671662/ "CropperCapture[120].png")
The chart above is BS -- ignore it.
Recommended room width: 13'10 inches -- that's 166 inches
table width, nose to nose -- 50 inches
total from two noses to walls -- 116 inches
one side, rail nose to wall -- 58 inches
The suggested room size is totally broken. It is sales propaganda. It is useful to have because now you know not to do business with that website and/or company.
This chart is BS -- ignore it:
The chart above is BS -- ignore it.
The dimensions that matter to playability are the playing area, cue length and stroking room. Here's a chart that takes those things into consideration for different size tables in a 13 1/2' x 17' room, using a 58" cue. Any size 7-footer will give you some stroking room all around without shorty sticks.
pj
chgo
Last edited:
Three inches of backswing for the worst case seems a little short to me.
Me too, although it's not that common to need to shoot directly across the table from on the rail. I actually misspoke in my post and said the chart showed 6" (now corrected).
pj
chgo
Add 9-1/2’ to the length and width of the table, at the minimum. So an 8’x4’ table needs a minimum of 17-6” x 13-6” and a 9x4.5 table needs 18-6” x 14’. Adding 10’ to the width and length is preferred and will result in absolutely no obstruction, unless utilizing a cue extension.
You’ll be okay with a 7’ table, but with that room size, you will see that you’ll have 2” less stroke space on the width versus the length. That’s because the idea of adding 10’ to the width and length has always been misleading.
My valley barbox outside dimensions aRe about 93” x 54” with playing dimensions of 78” x 39”. The websites suggest a minimum room of 16’ x 13’. That is insane sales talk.
For my Vally barbox, and my 58” cue and the minimum stroke I want, I would want a minimum of 17’ 2” x 13’ 11”. You’ll notice on those numbers how less your width will be versus your length. A lot of forum posters won’t understand this and never will.
This has always been incorrect. There is no 4’ dimension on an 8’ table. So if you do add the same number to both the 8 and 4, you will always have less room on the width.
If the length of a table is 8’ (the outer dimension), then its corresponding width for any room dimensioning would be 4’ 4” if we’re going to do ball park guidelines.. That’s a big difference for pool. It’s actually best to use actual cue length, actual desired minimum stroke length when against the cushion and actual playing surface dimensions. Use PJ’s spreadsheet.
Adding 10’ to actual outside dimensions isn’t a terrible guideline. But adding 10’ to, say, 8x4 or worse… 7 x 3.5… that’s just wrong. We need to be better than that.
I think this just needs to be a sticky. Like maybe the working spreadsheet so people can go to it and actually do their own calculation.
I guess through Mike Howerton.
I agree, there was just to many different specs online imho. That's why I wanted actual table outside specs where I could lay it out and test with cue and my stroke. Seems none of the billiard stores want to give you actual outside dimensions just table surface.
Playing surface would be the only thing that would affect the room needed for cue stroke. Wider rails would just give more room for your hand to sit.
Might be worth to put it on google sheets if its not already there.
Only the cushion nose to cushion nose measurements matter. If the rail width was 2" on a cheap table, or 8" on a commercial table, it would make zero difference to the cue length. If you were to make a template to lay on your floor with some masking tape or cardboard, it would be cushion nose to cushion nose. Then lay the tip of your stick on the line of the template.
Fred, I agree, but ideal for serious play with no absolutely no wall obstruction is significantly different than what will work for 99% of home table recreational play.