Communicating to a Cuemaker

tedkaufman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm contemplating having a new cue made. It will be a simple cue, but one of highest quality. I am vastly more interested in its hit, feel and performance than looks. So I don't care about ivory or inlays or points or veneers. I don't care if its cored or not, provided it has the right feel.

What I want is a cue that has resonance. I don't want the dull thud at impact I find so common in the cues I've tried recently. I definitely don't like the sound or feel of a SS joint. Nor do I want that "one piece" dull hit of a house cue. I want a stiff cue, one that transmits rather than absorbs resonance, so shaft taper is certainly a factor. I also want to specify a balance point, which I want fairly forward (19" from butt), and wonder how that might be achieved with a non SS joint. My preference is flat faced wood to wood.

If I provide the above information to a cuemaker, will it be enough? If not, how to convey to him that I want a crisp hit with feel? Do you cuemakers hear stuff like this and understand what a customer is trying to convey? Or are there more specifics one needs to address? I know wood choices are a factor. So I'm game to use whatever wood will best serve my requirements.
 
tedkaufman said:
I want a stiff cue, one that transmits rather than absorbs resonance, so shaft taper is certainly a factor. I also want to specify a balance point, which I want fairly forward (19" from butt), and wonder how that might be achieved with a non SS joint. My preference is flat faced wood to wood.

Hi Ted,

Based on something Joel Hercek wrote me and based on what countless cuemakers have said and written, bocote just may be the perfect forearm wood for you. Great resonance and is dense enough to give you natural forward balance.

HTH,
Koop
 
I suggest bocote or purpleheart or madagascar rosewood front with tight maple handle ( be it b'eye or curly ) , big pin and any bone material for collars.
Dual taper, thick forearm and slim handle.
No metal construction except the joint pin.
Or a plain bocote or purpleheart sneaky pete but about half an ounce of weight will have to be added in the front.
 
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JoeyInCali said:
Or a plain bocote or purpleheart sneaky pete but about half an ounce of weight will have to be added in the front.

How would you add weight to the front without a SS joint? Seriously, I am curious. Are you talking about coring the nose or is there another way?
 
Use a heavier forearm and a lighter handle. There is enough variation in densities of woods within species that selecting particular pieces to push the balance point at least some is doable.

I second Joey's recommendation of maple handle and madagascar rosewood forearm, especially if the rosewood is the right piece. There are several types of Madagascar (as Joey knows) rosewoods. I have some that is dark straight grained and heavy and has a very rich melodic tone that probably would be perfect for what you want. With the lighter maple handle and a big pin, I don't think it would be a huge problem for a cuemaker to get the balance you want.
Kelly
 
Kelly_Guy said:
Use a heavier forearm and a lighter handle. There is enough variation in densities of woods within species that selecting particular pieces to push the balance point at least some is doable.

I second Joey's recommendation of maple handle and madagascar rosewood forearm, especially if the rosewood is the right piece. There are several types of Madagascar (as Joey knows) rosewoods. I have some that is dark straight grained and heavy and has a very rich melodic tone that probably would be perfect for what you want. With the lighter maple handle and a big pin, I don't think it would be a huge problem for a cuemaker to get the balance you want.
Kelly

Agree but I was asking how you would add weight to the front of the cue he was speaking about. As in, cue X weighs this but I need it to weigh this. How would you add a 1/2 oz to the front?

Thanks,
Koop
 
JoeyInCali said:
I suggest bocote or purpleheart or madagascar rosewood front with tight maple handle ( be it b'eye or curly ) , big pin and any bone material for collars.
Dual taper, thick forearm and slim handle.
No metal construction except the joint pin.
Or a plain bocote or purpleheart sneaky pete but about half an ounce of weight will have to be added in the front.

You described a cue I own that I love to play with. It is an early Murray Tucker bocote/maple handle cue, and he said he doesn't have any metal in the cue except the radial pin.
i still think the shaft has the greatest effect on the hit. A 2nd shaft I had made to match makes the cue feel very different.
It is forward weighted by the way.
 
Koop said:
Agree but I was asking how you would add weight to the front of the cue he was speaking about. As in, cue X weighs this but I need it to weigh this. How would you add a 1/2 oz to the front?

Thanks,
Koop

Ooops, I just read his post more carefully. My mistake. :D
 
misterpoole said:
A 2nd shaft I had made to match makes the cue feel very different.
It is forward weighted by the way.

Uh-oh did I miss the taper? I have made some changes over the years but I went over my notes on your cue and thought the new one was the same. If I missed then by all means send it back with the old one and I will match it up. I'll be traveling for a few days but I will check with you on Monday when I get back. I can't have a funky hitting cue out there :eek:
 
Koop said:
Agree but I was asking how you would add weight to the front of the cue he was speaking about. As in, cue X weighs this but I need it to weigh this. How would you add a 1/2 oz to the front?

Thanks,
Koop

After the cue is finished, joint screw would be the first option with out extensive work.
 
I don't think the problem would be in getting the cue more forward balance, most cuemakers could probably do that for him, the issue is getting a cue to have that resonance he's looking for - which sounds an awfully lot like 'hit' and 'feel' - and isn't that going to be subjective?

my suggestion is to try out different cues from different cuemakers and find the one that's got the best resonance - then contact that cuemaker.
 
Koop said:
How would you add weight to the front without a SS joint? Seriously, I am curious. Are you talking about coring the nose or is there another way?
Powdered tungsten mixed with epoxy under the pin before the pin is installed.
Brass and SS 3/8 pins also weigh about an ounce to 1.3 ounces.
The ice cream cone taper on the forearm adds weight also.
The slim taper on the handle makes it lighter and will resonate more.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Powdered tungsten mixed with epoxy under the pin before the pin is installed.
Brass and SS 3/8 pins also weigh about an ounce to 1.3 ounces.
The ice cream cone taper on the forearm adds weight also.
The slim taper on the handle makes it lighter and will resonate more.

Agree with the last 2 but won't the first(tungsten powder) greatly affect the hit he is looking for?
I actually use tungsten in the backend of my Joss so I know exactly what you are talking about.
 
Murray Tucker said:
Uh-oh did I miss the taper? I have made some changes over the years but I went over my notes on your cue and thought the new one was the same. If I missed then by all means send it back with the old one and I will match it up. I'll be traveling for a few days but I will check with you on Monday when I get back. I can't have a funky hitting cue out there :eek:

I didnt mean it to come across that way... not 'funky', just different. Let me take this off to a PM.
I have quite a few cues to choose from these days but when I play in a tourney I always take along 'Tucker 01'.:)
 
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TellsItLikeItIs said:
Joey, I've never used powdered tungsten. How much weight can you add to the front of a cue with it and what woods have you found it necessary to use with?
You can add as much weight as you want.
Anytime maple is used on a cue , be it handle or forearm, it usually weighs less than 19 oz. unless partnered with a heavier wood.
 
Thank you all for your responses. There are some interesting thoughts brought up I'll take time to digest.

I did want to add, I do know the type hit I want. My cocobolo SW cue is just right. However, I want a cue with slightly more forward balance, one that doesn't cost $2000+, and one I won't have to wait 8 years for. I also wanted to add, I'm looking for a 19oz cue, +/- 0.25oz.
 
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