Complete table markings for straight pool

[Clusterbuster]

So I’m getting ready to jump into straight pool and just wanted to make sure I am correct on the standard table markings. It’s a bit harder to find a diagram on Google than I thought. Anyway, these are the markings I’m aware of:

- Outline of the triangle, on the outside of the rack;
- Straight line down from foot spot to middle diamond of end rail;
- Straight line between second diamonds of long rails through what would be head spot (I don’t have one, but where it would be) to mark the kitchen. I’ve never really felt like it was especially difficult to figure out where the kitchen is so this may be more optional.

I’ve gotten a Dritz tailor pencil, as recommended by Bob Jewett and some others, to do the marking.

Am I missing anything?

 

[DynoDan]

So I’m getting ready to jump into straight pool and just wanted to make sure I am correct on the standard table markings. It’s a bit harder to find a diagram on Google than I thought. Anyway, these are the markings I’m aware of:

- Outline of the triangle, on the outside of the rack;
- Straight line down from foot spot to middle diamond of end rail;
- Straight line between second diamonds of long rails through what would be head spot (I don’t have one, but where it would be) to mark the kitchen. I’ve never really felt like it was especially difficult to figure out where the kitchen is so this may be more optional.

I’ve gotten a Dritz tailor pencil, as recommended by Bob Jewett and some others, to do the marking.

Am I missing anything?

Technically, the center spot. But, much like the ‘kitchen’ line, the need would be so unlikely, it’s probably not worth the trouble, though the headspot should be marked. Also, extending the line a bit farther through the footspot toward center makes it easier to correctly place the rack.
BTW: Unless you play ‘lineup’, the line from the footspot needn’t go all the way to the rail, since obstructing ball positions would be another rarity. I also find it useful to mark the triangle (centers of angles & bases) to keep the racking squared.

 

[Bob Jewett]

I think you have everything. The center spot use is rare as noted, but a small cross to mark it is unobtrusive and easy to put on. The head spot can also be marked by a small cross (or dash across the marked headstring.

The headstring is far more used at one pocket.

It is very rare to spot balls above the foot spot. I don't think I've ever seen it in a match. It was marked for a couple of inches at the rec center back in the 1960s. These days you are lucky to get a foot spot when the table is recovered.

About the foot spot.... I was showing a student the drill where you shoot from the spot straight up the table to the head rail and back. We were having a lot of trouble coming back on line. After some squinting we figured out that the installers had put the spot down half an inch to one side. If you want something done right, you may have to do it yourself.

 

[Clusterbuster]

Gentlemen, thank you both for the input. Sounds like I’m about ready to go. Thanks.

 

[Saturated Fats]

Here's a tidbit that I think is helpful...

Before marking the triangle's outline, do this to confirm that the rack is placed properly in relation to the foot spot. Rack 14 balls just like you would to start a new rack - where the foot spot is empty. Then move one of the front balls to the foot spot position. Because the moved ball has vacated its original position, you can get a better view of the head ball on the foot spot - and know that it is exactly on the foot spot.

 

[Sheldon]

I hope you're using a tape measure and not trying to use the diamonds on the rails. If you want it accurate, a tape is the only way.

 

[DynoDan]

FYI: If per chance you decide to use a carpenter’s chalk line, be advised, some brands of chalk can be VERY hard to clean off the cloth (don‘t ask).

 

[Clusterbuster]

I hope you're using a tape measure and not trying to use the diamonds on the rails. If you want it accurate, a tape is the only way.

Yep, tape measure all the way. Thanks.

 

[Clusterbuster]

FYI: If per chance you decide to use a carpenter’s chalk line, be advised, some brands of chalk can be VERY hard to clean off the cloth (don‘t ask).

I wasn’t looking to do a chalk line but it’s a good tip. Thanks.

 

[Clusterbuster]

Here's a tidbit that I think is helpful...

Before marking the triangle's outline, do this to confirm that the rack is placed properly in relation to the foot spot. Rack 14 balls just like you would to start a new rack - where the foot spot is empty. Then move one of the front balls to the foot spot position. Because the moved ball has vacated its original position, you can get a better view of the head ball on the foot spot - and know that it is exactly on the foot spot.

Good tip and, on a related note, I’m already thinking of getting another triangle. The one I have now has big, pointed corners that are large enough when I set it in the usual location, if I set a ball on top of the rack on it’s corner (yeah, it’s big enough for that), it’s clear that if the rack wasn‘t there, a ball could sit in the area of the corner (would be inside the chalk area) without touching a ball on the corner of the rack. That’s convoluted but, bottom line, I’m getting a smaller rack for straight pool.

 

[ChrisinNC]

I think you have everything. The center spot use is rare as noted, but a small cross to mark it is unobtrusive and easy to put on. The head spot can also be marked by a small cross (or dash across the marked headstring.

The headstring is far more used at one pocket.

It is very rare to spot balls above the foot spot. I don't think I've ever seen it in a match. It was marked for a couple of inches at the rec center back in the 1960s. These days you are lucky to get a foot spot when the table is recovered.

About the foot spot.... I was showing a student the drill where you shoot from the spot straight up the table to the head rail and back. We were having a lot of trouble coming back on line. After some squinting we figured out that the installers had put the spot down half an inch to one side. If you want something done right, you may have to do it yourself.

The advantage of having the line extending above the foot spot is to help in visually making sure the rack is placed squarely. Placing a notch in the center back of your triangle, is also helpful to assure the triangle is racked perfectly squarely.

 

[Bob Jewett]

The advantage of having the line extending above the foot spot is to help in visually making sure the rack is placed squarely. Placing a notch in the center back of your triangle, is also helpful to assure the triangle is racked perfectly squarely.

That's a good idea if you do not mark the outline of the triangle.

 

[DynoDan]

That's a good idea if you do not mark the outline of the triangle.

It’s just quicker. Two points: The center of the angle sighted on the line above the footspot, and the base’s center on where the triangle‘s outline crosses the continuing rear line.

 

[ChrisinNC]

Good tip and, on a related note, I’m already thinking of getting another triangle. The one I have now has big, pointed corners that are large enough when I set it in the usual location, if I set a ball on top of the rack on it’s corner (yeah, it’s big enough for that), it’s clear that if the rack wasn‘t there, a ball could sit in the area of the corner (would be inside the chalk area) without touching a ball on the corner of the rack. That’s convoluted but, bottom line, I’m getting a smaller rack for straight pool.

To your point, to minimize the size of your drawn triangle to give yourself the potential for that final ball to be located as close to the rack as absolutely possible and still be able to rack the balls, you could use a 15 ball Accu-rack or Magic rack, and draw your 3 straight lines precisely where the outside edges of those object balls sit when racked. It will result in a significantly smaller triangle.

The problem is that using a template for racking in 14.1 is not recommended, as it’s hard to remove the template after the break, as there are usually multiple balls that remain in the template throughout the course of running the rack. If you’re like me, I find it a distraction to have a template remaining on the table, for any game I may be playing.

 

[Bob Jewett]

... and draw your 3 straight lines precisely where the outside edges of those object balls sit when racked. It will result in a significantly smaller triangle.

This is against the rules and a really, really bad idea. It can result in a break ball that cannot be pocketed directly.

The rules say that if a non-standard racking system is used, a normal triangle should be used to draw the outline.

It's true though that some triangles are not suitable for 14.1. The Delta-13 is good. The Predator rack, with the large, flat surface, is the worst. Except for the Sardo.

 

[Clusterbuster]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I’ll keep them in mind.

 

[jeagle64]

I mark the center spot with a small dot. It helps me for breakshot position. I found that if the break ball is within the width of the rack center table is good for position.


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