Padauk, zebrawood and pernambuco.bruin70 said:
A tight curly maple with a purpleheart or bocote handle, thinned out with a dual taper can be had around 19 oz and hit just fine.
Cored forearms vs. solid
- Thread starter Fat Ivory
- Start date
A tight curly maple with a purpleheart or bocote handle, thinned out with a dual taper can be had around 19 oz and hit just fine.
That would be expensive!rackem said:Do any builders of cored cues use a pie piece laminated dowel the full lenght of the butt??
I know one maker who uses pie-piece lam handle.
It was still warped pretty bad.
Would it be a happy medium if the butt was cored with the same type of wood that the core was going in?
I too see the potential for coring to be used as an excuse to not season wood as well as it should be. I also don't understand the argument about cuemakers wanting consistency from cue to cue, because an ebony cue shouldn't have the feel of a maple cue.
I'd rather have an uncored plain jane or full-spliced four-pointer made of well seasoned wood.
I too see the potential for coring to be used as an excuse to not season wood as well as it should be. I also don't understand the argument about cuemakers wanting consistency from cue to cue, because an ebony cue shouldn't have the feel of a maple cue.
I'd rather have an uncored plain jane or full-spliced four-pointer made of well seasoned wood.
Cored vs. Uncored
Cues can be great cored or uncored!! That's my 2c. How many people out there want ebony forearms, a steel joint, and an 18oz cue??? Hmm......there's a reason right there to core a cue. People forget that full spliced and heavier woods equal heavier cues. Hence.....one reason to core. What do people call 19oz Southwest cues?? "Player's cues"
Stabilizing an inherently unstable wood is another reason to core. Certain woods like snakewood, lacewood, burls, and even ebony can be a pain in the ass to work with. These woods often get cored.
Unseasoned wood is another reason cues get cored. Buy the wood today and build the cue tomorrow is a nice way to end up with a less than straight cue after just a short time. But not every cuemaker has the luxury of 10 yr. old prongs aging in their prong cellars.
I read with interest the posts on how different woods hit. My contention is that there are many variables available to change the hit. The joint, the balance point, the SHAFT, and the tips just to name a few.
A great cue is a great cue. Coring is just one aspect of cuebuilding. Pros and cons either way.
sherwin
Cues can be great cored or uncored!! That's my 2c. How many people out there want ebony forearms, a steel joint, and an 18oz cue??? Hmm......there's a reason right there to core a cue. People forget that full spliced and heavier woods equal heavier cues. Hence.....one reason to core. What do people call 19oz Southwest cues?? "Player's cues"
Stabilizing an inherently unstable wood is another reason to core. Certain woods like snakewood, lacewood, burls, and even ebony can be a pain in the ass to work with. These woods often get cored.
Unseasoned wood is another reason cues get cored. Buy the wood today and build the cue tomorrow is a nice way to end up with a less than straight cue after just a short time. But not every cuemaker has the luxury of 10 yr. old prongs aging in their prong cellars.
I read with interest the posts on how different woods hit. My contention is that there are many variables available to change the hit. The joint, the balance point, the SHAFT, and the tips just to name a few.
A great cue is a great cue. Coring is just one aspect of cuebuilding. Pros and cons either way.
sherwin