Coring Dust Collection

[sileighty_guru]

That's a really great setup!! As far as inattention goes. I've worked around large machines my entire life and I'd hope you reconsider your position regarding safety.

Thanks Randy...

And for the most part everyone is correct about gloves it is a no-no with lathes or any other rotating equipment. However like yourself I grew up working with equipment, and I have seen and investigated many incidents regarding heavy equipment and machinery due to the pleasures of my work history.

My coring lathe has no rotating parts exposed besides the chuck (yes I could shield this to cover all the bases) however if I am stupid enough to get my hands anywhere near the 6 jaw bison I deserve to lose an arm or hand. I run double lockouts on my power switches so "accidental" bumping will not activate the machine while messing with the chuck. I grew up working metal so the hot chips always hitting my hands was enough to warrant the gloves and a strict set of operation guidelines. I guess it just stuck with me as I moved to wood with metal work on the side?

My apologies if my "comment" on safety offended anyone it was just a snippy comment. I am in no way stating that people should wear gloves!!! This was only intended to be a video on the dust setup and to show how it worked.

I do appreciate the comments about safety as it is a huge concern in our line of work! I should have left that comment out of the video (however I still would have worn the gloves). If my glove ends up in my chuck it's not the gloves fault it's mine :frown:

 

[Canadian cue]

General question on coring. I have my drill set up in the tool post and I am curious why so many do not do the same? Makes drilling long holes so much easier just engage the feed and go. It takes a little more preparation setting up your drill but once set up you can core all day way faster than with the tailstock.

 

[sileighty_guru]

Personally I don't because I lose the "feel" of what I'm coring and cant control the feed rate. not that it's wrong to use either way! Just a preference I have and I am in no hurry

 

[Canadian cue]

Sounds like good logic, myself I do my coring in batches so hand cranking for multiple pieces wouldn't be fun after a while. For one or two pieces not having to setup the drill your method would probably be quicker.

 

[JC]

General question on coring. I have my drill set up in the tool post and I am curious why so many do not do the same? Makes drilling long holes so much easier just engage the feed and go. It takes a little more preparation setting up your drill but once set up you can core all day way faster than with the tailstock.

I think doing it by hand may be quicker on a single piece as you can feel the feed and move faster if the wood is soft but I prefer to feed a bit slower and watch it go. Especially if you're doing a few.

JC

 

[JC]

This is how I do it on my deluxe. Start with pieces cut to contain the forearm and the butt sleeve and drill both holes without bursting through. Just stop shy of the transition a little bit both directions. Big end big hole, little end little hole. Then I core the forearm to the blind hole before parting off the pieces. This enables the use of thin epoxy and avoids dry spots. Of course I would never use silicone there:smile:



Then here is the dust collector. The lid is held on with rare earth magnets. This way with the drill marked with inch graduations you can look through the top and know where you're at depth wise. That's how you stop short of bursting through either end.

The little paper towel seals up the end so chips don't come out that end. The vacuum is enough more than the air pressure to hold it in place nicely. It's nice and thin so you can core right up to the end of the wood if you need full depth from your drill. The box is mounted on top of a taig clamp to slide up and down the dovetail as needed.

 

[sileighty_guru]

This is how I do it on my deluxe. Start with pieces cut to contain the forearm and the butt sleeve and drill both holes without bursting through. Just stop shy of the transition a little bit both directions. Big end big hole, little end little hole. Then I core the forearm to the blind hole before parting off the pieces. This enables the use of thin epoxy and avoids dry spots. Of course I would never use silicone there:smile:



Then here is the dust collector. The lid is held on with rare earth magnets. This way with the drill marked with inch graduations you can look through the top and know where you're at depth wise. That's how you stop short of bursting through either end.

The little paper towel seals up the end so chips don't come out that end. The vacuum is enough more than the air pressure to hold it in place nicely. It's nice and thin so you can core right up to the end of the wood if you need full depth from your drill. The box is mounted on top of a taig clamp to slide up and down the dovetail as needed.


NICE!

 

[rhinobywilhite]

This is how I do it on my deluxe. Start with pieces cut to contain the forearm and the butt sleeve and drill both holes without bursting through. Just stop shy of the transition a little bit both directions. Big end big hole, little end little hole. Then I core the forearm to the blind hole before parting off the pieces. This enables the use of thin epoxy and avoids dry spots. Of course I would never use silicone there:smile:



Then here is the dust collector. The lid is held on with rare earth magnets. This way with the drill marked with inch graduations you can look through the top and know where you're at depth wise. That's how you stop short of bursting through either end.

The little paper towel seals up the end so chips don't come out that end. The vacuum is enough more than the air pressure to hold it in place nicely. It's nice and thin so you can core right up to the end of the wood if you need full depth from your drill. The box is mounted on top of a taig clamp to slide up and down the dovetail as needed.


NICE!

Aaron, still hoping you will show pics of the cyclone, filter setup on your shop vac.