Coring From Both Ends
- Thread starter slim123
- Start date
How else would you do it?
You might try using a long "gun drill" which are made for boring/coring.
Yes. But I haven't tried to get the holes to meet perfectly enough to put one core through. My gun drill goes really straight, but usually ends up wandering very slightly by the time it travels a foot and a half. If I core a 30" piece I will core half, glue in a core, then core the other half til I hit the core I just glued in.
Shouldn't be a problem, just make sure your work piece is nice and concentric and draw a reference line across of the blank, so you can position it exactly the same orientation when changing sides. I use a Pratt Burnerd KC15 chuck for coring, very accurate and very fast to change work piece.
Be more specific with your question.
Full cores or partial cores?
Do you plan on using a Gun drill or a drill bit and reamer?
full cores and gun drill
I'm using an 18inch bit, and was curious if i could core a bigger piece to save the beauty of some of the wood
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Full cores equals 29 inches.
1st rule
Patience!!!
2nd rule
Dial indicator
3rd rule
2 different size gun drills
4th rule
A long ass reamer!
Adapt one!!!!!!!
5th rule
Proof your theory and work!
GOOD LUCK
Attachments
And yes. Sometimes a full core has an -A- joint!!!!
Zip-a-dee-doo-dah, zip-a-dee-ay
My, oh, my, what a wonderful day
Zip-a-dee-doo-dah, zip-a-dee-ay
My, oh, my, what a wonderful day
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Understood.
Dave's post sounds like he can help you.
Thanks great info
that chuck is great....if one has the 1K to invest in it and the accessories plus the cost of a lathe that it will fit. I do my coring of the long pieces....20" to 29" on my cuesmith deluxe......but have spent some $$ and time to get it right. Gundrills are the most $$ but also spend time to have the steady rests to support the drill, with the proper gundrill guides dust collection, etc.
Coos Cues
Coos Cues
I have only done it one time and it worked pretty good. Had a 30 inch piece of maple that really needed to be stabilized due to light weight. Put a PH .775" core 15 inches into the butt with west systems and as I worked the core in the hole the maple absorbed about 2 ounces of epoxy. After it cured I repeated from the joint end with a .650" PH core drilling right into the larger core about an inch. Again the maple absorbed almost 2 ounces of epoxy. When I turned it down it wasn't light and soft anymore and came out a nice looking cue. The guy had a shaft he wanted a butt matched with ring wise and had the maple. I made no guarantees but was glad I did the project it was fun and educational.
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You can core a forearm and handles separately then join them.
Some of the greats did partial cores too.
The hole did not go end to end of forearms.
Very interesting.
If I can ask
Actual stepped, tapered or just 2 seperate cores cut straight?
How long are your gun drills
Most only core the forearm and handle separtely 12-14 inches, it work out fairly well, just once in awhile you get someone that wants some excotic stabilzed wood, all in one piece