Coring Question ?????

[Kid Dynomite]

Do you core before you cut your points in or after you cut your points???

reason for asking is their has to be a differrence in hit with both techniques.

Example:

1#:coco forearm cored with maple and then you cut deep points in.

Vs.

2#:coco forearm cut points in & glue then core the whole thing.

Please tell me which way you use and why? Which hits better?

Kid
Dynomite

 

[BLACKHEARTCUES]

Do you core before you cut your points in or after you cut your points???

reason for asking is their has to be a differrence in hit with both techniques.

Example:

1#:coco forearm cored with maple and then you cut deep points in.

Vs.

2#:coco forearm cut points in & glue then core the whole thing.

Please tell me which way you use and why? Which hits better?

Kid
Dynomite

I personally don't think that one method makes a difference over another. I only core my forearms to reduce or add weight to that part of the Q. I also only use a partial core. In other words if I have an Ebony forearm with Bacote points ( heavy), I'll core it 5/8" diameter in the nose & 3/4" diameter at the handle end. If I have an Ebony forearm with Holly points, I only core the joint end for balance. I core after I put in the points...JER

 

[Kid Dynomite]

I personally don't think that one method makes a difference over another. I only core my forearms to reduce or add weight to that part of the Q. I also only use a partial core. In other words if I have an Ebony forearm with Bacote points ( heavy), I'll core it 5/8" diameter in the nose & 3/4" diameter at the handle end. If I have an Ebony forearm with Holly points, I only core the joint end for balance. I core after I put in the points...JER

So, let me understand a partial core as explained above is not cored ALL the way through the forearm? Just like some illegal baseball bats! Kind of like taking a plug out and refilling it with lighter or heavier wood. Thanks!

I always thought the coring diameter would be uniform! But doesnt have to be and all the way thru!

I think their has to be a differrence in hit with technique number two acting kind of like a flute!!!! channelling energy throu and out the back of the cue. because of the different properties of the woods used in the core and on the outside.

While technique number 1 CUTS into that core and that wood in the points resonantes at a different frequency than the wood in the core! this has to disrupt the vibrational travel down the cue? Have you ever seen a guitar made with two different woods for the backs or the sides? they don't do it to keep the harmonic properties consistent and ringing /resonanting at the same frequency! My thought is that method two has to be better becuase it allows for uniform frequency through out the cue's core from maple shaft to wood joint to through forearm, handle & butt if cored with maple!!!! While still allowing the cue to have the appearance of points and not disrupting that energy flow and the benefits of it do to uniform vibrational frequency throu the core and the flute theory where the outside wood helps channel the energy through the core like a flute channels air or a whissle thru its canal because the outside peice of wood and the glue inbetween it and the core funnel the energy greater through the cue!

Just my thoughts and I am NO expert!

Kid
Dynomite

 

[Sheldon]

With a full 3/4 inch core, you pretty much have to core it first. It has to be done with the piece way oversized, and even if you could manage it, you would have a hard time maintaining your centers, and your points would probably never be even.
If you are just drilling and/or boring a small hole in the forearm and plugging it, you can get away with doing it afterwards. I don't really think you can call that coring though.

 

[Michael Webb]

With a full 3/4 inch core, you pretty much have to core it first. It has to be done with the piece way oversized, and even if you could manage it, you would have a hard time maintaining your centers, and your points would probably never be even.
If you are just drilling and/or boring a small hole in the forearm and plugging it, you can get away with doing it afterwards. I don't really think you can call that coring though.

Tap, Tap, Sheldon.

 

[BLACKHEARTCUES]

With a full 3/4 inch core, you pretty much have to core it first. It has to be done with the piece way oversized, and even if you could manage it, you would have a hard time maintaining your centers, and your points would probably never be even.
If you are just drilling and/or boring a small hole in the forearm and plugging it, you can get away with doing it afterwards. I don't really think you can call that coring though.

I agree with you Sheldon, but if you bore a hole & then fill it with a dowel of a different wood, what do you call it. That is why in my post, I call it a "PARTIAL CORE". It's not through & through, but it does have a core of a different wood, in those regions of the forearm. My post is to say that there is another way to "create a core of a different wood than the primary & that this method probably does little, other than reducing or adding weight to the forearm. Structurally I don't think it changes the STRENGTH of the primary wood...JER