CTE tuning (not pro or con discussions)

After the angle is created I always go back to "aiming" with the center

CJ, could you expand a little on what you mean by hitting less of the cue ball? Are you hitting center cue ball after lining up or are you actually hitting off center? What about speed on long shots. Do you hit harder to overcome the throw issue on long shots.

I tend to use the front of the OB and CB when lining up shots. It's hard to explain but I'll try. When in my preshot, I look at the front of the OB to the pocket. I then take the equal spot on the CB and line it up with the opposite point on the OB. When looking at the OB, if the front point is for instance 10:00 on a clock then I line up 10:00 on the CB with 2:00 on the OB. I then step into the shot with these points lined up. Does this make sense and do you see any plus or minus problems with this way of sighting? I've had a lot of success recently but still suffer from bad habits of twisting the stroke and standing up. However when I am in stroke this seems to work for me.

I guess I am just trying to line up the opposites on the CB and OB. Trying to pick a spot on the back of the OB can be a little difficult, that's why I've been using the clock face.

I'd appreciate any and all comments. Thanks CJ

I know the system you are using and I incorporate that to a certain extent. Sometimes it's good to know a few different ways to get to the same place for a "check and balance". I use checks and balances and will rarely say "my system or technique is the only one" because like anything else in life you need a "Cross Check".

To answer your first question:

Let's use the example that I'm shooting a spot shot to my right corner pocket (from two diamonds UP and one diamond OVER from the left rail). If I aim center to center I'm going to shoot it into the top rail between the right diamonds.

If I hit "LESS" of the cue ball, which in this case means "1 O'CLOCK" if the cue ball was a clock face I would get a half diamond (approx.) closer to making it......if I go over to "2 O'clock" I will get closer and at "3 O'Clock" I'll make it. At the "3 O'CLOCK" stage I go back to CENTER of the cue ball to the LEFT EDGE of the object ball.

Try this and let me know if you have any questions. Remember, "less" is just going further over on the cue ball, the same way as you're cutting the shot. Then you just "Connect the Dots" and create the angle.

After the angle is created I always go back to "aiming" with the center of the cue ball to give myself Maximum Feel for the shot. 'The Game is the Teacher'
 
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I know the system you are using and I incorporate that to a certain extent. Sometimes it's good to know a few different ways to get to the same place for a "check and balance". I use checks and balances and will rarely say "my system or technique is the only one" because like anything else in life you need a "Cross Check".

To answer your first question:

Let's use the example that I'm shooting a spot shot to my right corner pocket (from two diamonds UP and one diamond OVER from the left rail). If I aim center to center I'm going to shoot it into the top rail between the right diamonds.

If I hit "LESS" of the cue ball, which in this case means "1 O'CLOCK" if the cue ball was a clock face I would get a half diamond (approx.) closer to making it......if I go over to "2 O'clock" I will get closer and at "3 O'Clock" I'll make it. At the "3 O'CLOCK" stage I go back to CENTER of the cue ball to the LEFT EDGE of the object ball.

Try this and let me know if you have any questions. Remember, "less" is just going further over on the cue ball, the same way as you're cutting the shot. Then you just "Connect the Dots" and create the angle.

After the angle is created I always go back to "aiming" with the center of the cue ball to give myself Maximum Feel for the shot. 'The Game is the Teacher'

Thanks for the response CJ. I understand what you are saying. Will be a couple of days before I can try it out.

Pool is a fascinating game. Lot about equals and opposites along with angles.

Thanks again. I value your comments in the forums.
 
For more on CJ's aiming method see posts #29 through #53 of this thread: http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=289527&highlight=eighths

I read those posts when he posted them. However, by going back and rereading them along with what he sent me, things are starting to come together.

I haven't had a chance to try yet. Comprehension wasn't one of my strong points. Broken many drill bits trying to drill things into my head.

Thanks, I appreciate the help.
 
try this....

Yoda, thanks for your offer. Unfortunately, I'm 125 miles north of Boston.

I am getting a lot of info from these posts. I stick with it and hopefully the light will go on.

Thanks again, this is what is great about this forum. People are willing to help


when stevie moore first told me about CTE and pro/one, i was skeptical.
So,, i went to the table and tried to do EXACTLY what the DVD said, and hoped to prove that it did NOT work. (i had seen the DVD previously from a friend, and gave up lol ).

After one day of practice, shooting the reference shots, and seeing if i would totally miss...... i was a believer !!!

So good luck, study the DVD, and don't make up your own techniques, just stay the course.
 
off the rail, long shots....

I was shown my one of my road partners a center to edge system back in the late 80s, but I use the center OR edge of the object ball and aim a SPECIFIC part of the cue ball.

From my experience when shooting long shots expecially it's easier to see a quarter (specific part) of the cue ball than a quarter of the object ball. I'm just connecting to the CENTER or EDGE of the object ball and just simply hitting less of the cue ball to create more angle as needed.

CREATING angles is what I must think in terms of. To me pool is a creative game that puts an emphasis on Feel and Touch rather than the visual (seeing) aspects so much. When I'm playing my best I have the sensation of "Feeling the Angles" with my eyes, and I've heard similar statements.

Mike Lebron always impressed me (shotmaking esp. long and cut shots), when he won the US OPEN at age 53 and hit everything with a low, "stunning" cue ball. His accuracy and shotmaking was as good as I've ever seen and he told me he just looked at the center or edge of the ball.

How does this system work off the rail shooting long shots YODA?

If used correctly, off the rail, or long shots, nothing is any different. One determines the type of shot, be it A, B or C, and does the normal things.

I believe that the CTE/PRO one system has a hidden strength, in that it lines you up correctly, and solidly every time. Then, a good player combines that line up, with a little bit of 'pocket sense', and the combination of these two create extreme accuracy. A little pocket sense is necessary, (only in my opinion), because around 25 to 30 degree shots can overlap, and be made with either an A or a B aim point.

Also, i think that CTE can be modified by good players, to fit their individual styles, and preferences. Each player can take the foundation, and build their own version of CTE. (I have made a few changes for my own style, like choosing to start a shot with Center to Left edge, instead of Center to Right edge. ) As always, Stan Shuffett is the best place to get advice on CTE, i am just a new student .
 
This just posted by Stan, so copied it here.

A PROGRESSION OF LEFT CUTS FOR CTE/PRO ONE
The following GUIDE for left cuts can be reversed for right cuts.

1. THICK CUT SHOTS

A/CTE -OUTSIDE PIVOT

(A/CTE- INSIDE PIVOT)
(B/CTE-OUTSIDE PIVOT)
**A/CTE with an inside pivot is the same as B/CTE with an outside pivot. This is a primary reason that you experience very few Bs with an outside pivot. This interchange for A and B on the THICK side can work up to about 50 inches on a 9 foot table. This information is great for flexibility/options for the right handed/left handed players.
Please note: There are NO B shots after 4 diamonds of distance on a 9 foot table. Distance at 4 plus diamonds does not allow for a B aim point line with a CTE perception. There are NO B shots without a CTE perception.

2. TYPICAL CUT SHOTS

B/CTE-INSIDE PIVOT

3. THIN CUT SHOTS

C/WITHOUT THE CTE PERCEPTION- OUTSIDE PIVOT
C/WITHOUT THE CTE PERCEPTION-INSIDE PIVOT
These are single line visuals.

**The addition of C for left thin cuts and A for right thin cuts as OB aim points are my only update since my DVD was released. In a previous thread I indicated an Edge to Edge update for near straight-in shots but that was not a correct adjustment for CTE/PRO ONE. So, disregard my E to E earlier update as it was wrong. My first DVD is correct and complete with the additions of A and C single lines visuals for thin cuts.

4. EXTREMELY THIN CUTS

1/8 CB/OB OVERLAP- OUTSIDE PIVOT
1/8 CB/0B OVERLAP-INSIDE PIVOT


***I use the word pivot, now, only to describe manual pivoting. Technically, in PRO ONE, there is no pivot, just a left or right eye/body movement that eliminates the need for manual pivoting. I refer to what was once a pivot in PRO ONE now as a LEFT OR RIGHT VISUAL SWEEP.

CTE/PRO ONE is a visual system in which the eyes lead and the body follows.

Can all shots be made with a CTE perception? Yes, All shots go somewhere with the use of 2 visuals: A/CTE and B/CTE for left cuts. For right cuts: C/CTE and B/CTE. CTE shots may not always go to your desired pocket. So, there are adjustments. That’s what the A and C single line aim points on the thin side and the 1/8 single line visuals are for.

I do not associate OB aimpoints with specific angles because of the distance factor and the way those little spheres can present themselves on a rectangular surface. One example of this is that I can demonstrate an A shot on the thin side with a 20 degree angle and also an A shot on the thin side with a 49 degree angle.

Stan Shuffett
 
Up to about 130 hours and it gets easier and more powerful each day. The challenge for me was the initial setback as things took time to feel natural. I am now stroking the ball better with a lot less unnecessary english.

Actually have 2 days planned to spend with Stan in January - looking forward to further developing what I have been working so hard on for the past couple of months.

The pivots in Pro One are a natural movement that over time just happen without any conscious thought.

I highly recommend it…

Cheers,
Gerry
 
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