Cue ball and cue stick simple question

mfoolb

mfoolb

Registered
Hi,

I bought a table a couple of months ago and I've a couple of beginner question.

I've got a set of aramith premium balls they are all shining a lot except (of course) for the cue ball that's full of blue chalk and grey signs.

What's the best way to let the cue ball return to his original shining white?

I've got another lame question about cue stick.

I'm improving quite fast let say at the moment I can close and 8 ball run from break once every 10/12 run.

I use a fury cue stick bought new for something aroung $90, is there really a difference between this kind of cue stick and one (among the many) priced around $200/$250 or is only a question of fashion, brand and aesthetics?

Thank you in advance for your kindly responses.
 
So you run every 10 out of 12 8 Ball racks? You are doing quite well! Do you have any friends that shoot with other production cues like Meucci, Viking, McDermott, etc...? That is were I would start, ask them if you can shoot a rack with their cues and you will see the difference. It is hard to tell someone what is best, becuase we are all different :)!
 
plshrk22 said:
So you run every 10 out of 12 8 Ball racks? You are doing quite well! Do you have any friends that shoot with other production cues like Meucci, Viking, McDermott, etc...? That is were I would start, ask them if you can shoot a rack with their cues and you will see the difference. It is hard to tell someone what is best, becuase we are all different :)!
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I think he meant that he can run out from the break, one out of every 10 to 12 racks.
 
To clean the cue I recommend a product called 'Brasso' and a cloth. Just rub some brasso around the ball and let it sit for a minute then rub it off as vigorously as you can. If you can afford it the ball-polishers (machines) are nice and work well. Or you can just get a buffer for your power-drill.

As far as the stick, that really comes down to preference, hit around with a couple of other cues that other people own and see what you like the most - there is no 'best' in that department, it's all personal opinion.
 
I read an old thread here before, normal dish washing agent and car paste wax are just about all you need. I use both furniture pledge and car wax, they're both equally good, give very good shine.
 
Snoogi said:
I read an old thread here before, normal dish washing agent and car paste wax are just about all you need. I use both furniture pledge and car wax, they're both equally good, give very good shine.
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IMO, Mild soap is better than dish washing agent `coz it might affect the surface or finish of the ball. Although car paste wax is good but the balls tend to become a little slippery especially on the 1st few games. It can give the "shine" but not the "depth" or gloss

For me, the BEST way to restore your ball(s) is by using the Aramith products such as the Aramith Ball Cleaner, and the Aramith Ball Restorer. The Aramith ball cleaner brings back the "depth" or the mirror look and, of course, the shine. The restorer removes the stubborn stains. However, there are already stains or marks than can already be removed just by the ball cleaner itself.
 
Magic Eraser

Magic Eraser also works well with almost any cleaner. I use it with the Aramith cleaner and it eliminates the need to rub hard to get spots off of the cue ball. I also use gloves because the Aramith cleaner turns my hands slightly yellow. Anyone remember that chemical from school that turns your skin yellow? I can't think of the name and it is driving me nuts.
 
First of all I'd like to thank you all for your fast and many answers; this was my first post in the forum and I received a very nice impression.

I'll try to polish my cue ball following some of your suggestion (I can't afford at the moment a ball polish machine).

As for my other question about the cue stick maybe I was not able to use the right english words to express myself.

I meant to ask if there's *real* difference (and not brand or aesthetics) in quality of play using a $200 stick instead of one that costs around $90.

Thank you again.
 
mfoolb said:
First of all I'd like to thank you all for your fast and many answers; this was my first post in the forum and I received a very nice impression.

I'll try to polish my cue ball following some of your suggestion (I can't afford at the moment a ball polish machine).

As for my other question about the cue stick maybe I was not able to use the right english words to express myself.

I meant to ask if there's *real* difference (and not brand or aesthetics) in quality of play using a $200 stick instead of one that costs around $90.Thank you again.
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This is not a yes or no answer....

Some cues like a Joss have pretty nice shafts and they can be bought for just over $200...
 
EDRJR said:
Magic Eraser also works well with almost any cleaner. I use it with the Aramith cleaner and it eliminates the need to rub hard to get spots off of the cue ball. I also use gloves because the Aramith cleaner turns my hands slightly yellow. Anyone remember that chemical from school that turns your skin yellow? I can't think of the name and it is driving me nuts.
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Iodine or silver nitrate.
 
mfoolb said:
I meant to ask if there's *real* difference (and not brand or aesthetics) in quality of play using a $200 stick instead of one that costs around $90.

Thank you again.
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depends on who you buy it from. my first cue cost $20 got it from walmart and is was not much better from a house cue and sometimes worse(they had several for sale and one had liquid and a plastic fish in the butt imagine a constantly shifting fluid weight in the far butt end of your cue...they sell them I swear.)

then a few months later I got a "Fat Cat" from Sheels it cost just over $60 and had a maple shaft.

it was better but not great...

my next purchase was a Viper Gothic at a pawn shop for $100. good shaft and hits well I still use it for my break cue all maple shaft with a lepro tip. it was my cue for several years. and I still know it better than any other cue I own.

Then most recently, I got my baby a spectacular McDermott 4 point AAA maple. with bacote points "M64E Taos" cost me just over $400. and truthfully worth every penny. it hits solid and consistent time after time. I even bought a 314/2 shaft for it but after two months I went back to the factory shaft and haven't looked back.

BTW I have a predator 314/2 (post recall) shaft in pristine condition with most of the original tip and a 3/8 x 10 joint that I'll sell for $150 (paid $200 for it)

so in short yes a quality cue does make a difference if your game has developed enough to notice the difference. but I have learned that constantly changing cues hurts your game ... find one you like and learn all you can about it. knowing your cues capability's when its in your hands is far, far more valuable than who made it or what it cost.
 
Cue question

Between $90 and $250, yes some. Between $90 and $300-400, more difference.

Go to your 'profile' and fill in your location, at least the country. It will help posters that answer your questions if we know where you are located. We might answer differently if you are in Europe compared to the USA.
 
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