I have often wondered of the variety of joint styles and pins available how they affect the playability of a cue. I have shot with many different pins and joints and agree with what the majority will tell you. For an 18oz or below playing cue what type of joint and pin would give the most response and control using a soft tip? I would have to say a wood to wood joint with a large pin would be a safe bet. Any thoughts?
Cue Joints
- Thread starter scottyj
- Start date
To a very first order:
70%-80% of the hit is in the tip
15%-20% is in the shaft
leaving 5%-10% to be the sum of the butt, weighting, balance, and joint
For me, the kind of joint is not nearly as important as the overall balance of the assembled cue.
70%-80% of the hit is in the tip
15%-20% is in the shaft
leaving 5%-10% to be the sum of the butt, weighting, balance, and joint
For me, the kind of joint is not nearly as important as the overall balance of the assembled cue.
feedback?
your reply is very informative though i am more interested in "response" "playability" or in other words "feedback" of the cue. i understand that the tip is most important in the hit of a cue but to the best of my knowledge the "feedback" or resonance is determined by the type of joint? as this is what connects the shaft to the butt and is the only part of a cue connecting it together. my original question may have been misunderstood. thanks.
your reply is very informative though i am more interested in "response" "playability" or in other words "feedback" of the cue. i understand that the tip is most important in the hit of a cue but to the best of my knowledge the "feedback" or resonance is determined by the type of joint? as this is what connects the shaft to the butt and is the only part of a cue connecting it together. my original question may have been misunderstood. thanks.
To me joint pin type isn't as important as other factors. Obviously SS is going to be heavier, and I think makes a little softer feeling hit than wood to wood. Ivory is often sleeved, so that you have wood to wood underneath. I don't mind piloted SS joints personally, but I've been using wood to wood 3/8x10 or radial pin cues for the last 5 or 6 years and most of those cues have played great. Don't really think its from the joint though, more the taper, tip, balance point, and woods used in the handle/forearm.
feedback of cue
I would say that feedback is what happens to the cue directly after you strike the cueball. There is a vibration and or noise that differs from cue to cue this is what would be the feedback or response. Sometimes it is dull and sometimes it is alive and vibrant. The only way to be able to feel it is with the hand that you grip your cue with after you successfully strike the cueball.
I would say that feedback is what happens to the cue directly after you strike the cueball. There is a vibration and or noise that differs from cue to cue this is what would be the feedback or response. Sometimes it is dull and sometimes it is alive and vibrant. The only way to be able to feel it is with the hand that you grip your cue with after you successfully strike the cueball.
I've don't like the "feel" of stainless very much. I haven't thought about it a lot, but it's probably due to what is called a "boundary condition". Vibration travels at different speeds in different substances--ever noticed how strangely things sound when you're underwater? The mismatch between two substances causes an energy loss--like waves lapping against a wall, or you might be familiar with impedance mismatches in electronics like ham radio, for instance. You also do something similar when you hold down a string on a stringed instrument like a guitar.
In other words, the mismatch between wood and steel deadens the feel...in fact, energy should get reflected back up the shaft, I would think, even though I haven't done the equations. This might actually mean an SS joint would give a harder hit....but with a softer feel.
Bob?
Dave?
In other words, the mismatch between wood and steel deadens the feel...in fact, energy should get reflected back up the shaft, I would think, even though I haven't done the equations. This might actually mean an SS joint would give a harder hit....but with a softer feel.
Bob?
Dave?
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RD3P
Banned
With a soft tip your not gonna get much response from the cue at all since the soft tip absorbs the feedback ....at least thats my experience with soft tips....i cant stand them. another way id describe a soft tip is like a springy inconsistant sponge that absorbs the "hit" of your cue.....i'll admit They felt good at first(soft tips) like when your just hitting the cueball up and down table before playing, But when your playing a game they kill the cues feel.....thats my thought about soft tips. i used one for a few weeks and just couldnt like it. ive been playing pool for 20 years with a hard tip tho
if you want feedback from a cue use a hard tip use a Le'pro for a reference if you want harder than that go with a pressed Water buffalo/or sumo tip
ill also add that there are nothing wrong with Lepro tips ,
i think they are a tip that everyone should try once
yes they will mushroom
yes youll have to work on your tip all the time,
yes they dont last for years(3 months if your lucky/with all the scuffing and grinding)...but its always a good feeling getting a new tip and all the maintainence kind of gets you in game mode/one'ness with your cue before the match
they are cheap and they are a good middle of the road tip....what i mean by that is after you use a lepro youll beable to distinguish what you like in a tip and what you dont and where you might want to go next in a tip....
when you pick a good one(lepro) out of the box(there will be bad ones in the same box) and install it properly they hit great...they just require maintainence.....
sory for going off on this tangent.....but the joint isnt where its at......steel will change the balance mostly thats gonna be the difference you feel. personally i love Steel Jointed cues...i love the forward weight.
Why do you like a soft tip if i might ask????
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soft tip?
I personally have never even played with a soft tip unless it was off the rack. From what i have been told a soft tip is better used for the style of play using extreme english and or finesse. And a hard tip is best used for power and or breaking. But I may have to replace my japanese layered tip which i would guess is medium / hard to a different tip thanks to your excellent response. :grin:
I personally have never even played with a soft tip unless it was off the rack. From what i have been told a soft tip is better used for the style of play using extreme english and or finesse. And a hard tip is best used for power and or breaking. But I may have to replace my japanese layered tip which i would guess is medium / hard to a different tip thanks to your excellent response. :grin:
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Secaucus Fats
Banned
IMO, a wood piloted Uni Loc Radial joint gives excellent feedback.
RD3P
Banned
not so on the english... a properly scuffed, shaped hard tip gives just as good of english...in my experience....Shaft diameter and tip radius trumps weather or not a tip is hard or soft when it comes to amount of english you can get....
i also beleive that a hard tip will give you a better stroke in a way.
because youll beable to feel when your not hitting the cueball good much easier